3 design for PVC overflow...pick the one you think is the best

[dandestroy]

Just getting into a litle overflow system for my new tank.

I'm planning to use pvc and no acrylic whatsoever.
I have drawed 3 different design. two of them basically drain form the surface which is good to remove that protein film that form after a while. The other one drain from the midle or bottom tank which is pretty usefull to and more easy to hide.

I've noted where the water would stay stuck in the pipe where syphon is broken in order fo it to resume when water in the tank resart to increase.

So plz pick the one you like the most and add any comment you like to improve these system

thx

[MiamiDan]

check out this twist to an overflow system...where instead of pvc, they are using a clear hose....looks more difficult to loose a syphon an a lot easier to re-establish it...

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/article...er_changes.php

[dandestroy]

its kinda like my reverse but you use one 1 1/2' pvc pipe as a holding instead of the 2 pvc befroe the water level defining pipe. (actually I did draw the exact same thing this morning but did'nt put it in the treat casue it was like the reverse, but people would have said that i would not work by just looking at the drawing...lol)

[lhforbes12]

I'm not sure I understand the "Reverse" or the "W", mainly because what is going to stop fry or small fish from getting into them?

Larry

[dandestroy]

you just put a small plastic or fiberglass screen with aqua safe silicone, or just a sponge like this:

http://waynesworldangelfish.com/overflow.jpg

actually I have builded the reverse with 3/4" apex but its not that great, tubing are to small, and its to easy to loose the syphon, so I'm going to build the exact same system you can see in that link with apex instead of vinyl tubing for the outside part

[lhforbes12]

Dan,
Yeah I read that article, I thought it was very good, especially because I've been thinking of making a drip system. I didn't understand that part either though...what's to keep the whole tank from draining? It looks like a simple syphon to me.

[sleonard]

That Waynesworld overflow is the one I used when I built a drip system last month. So far it has worked flawlessly. (I am having to replace drip emitters way too often though. The drip rate starts slowing down within 48 hours.)

lforbes, here is a very simple block diagram that will show why it is not a simple syphon and won't drain the tank. Basically the water levels in the tank and the PVC tube will stay the same due to the syphon in the hose BUT if the water level falls below the drain output then it stops draining.

Only two possibilities of failure. 1) air enters the syphon tube and the syphon breaks and 2) the drip emitters clog. Number 1) will cause overflow onto floor and number 2) will stop input of fresh water.

I plan to (eventually) drill the tanks for a standpipe overflow. That way I'm not relying on a syphon and (soon) I'm going to experiment with replacing the drip emitters with mini ball valves to eliminate the clogging.

Scott

[dandestroy]

can you post a picture of your overflow, or is it exactly like the one of waynes?

If you put a line filter that is going to save your drip emitter a lot (at least that is waht they do in gardening)

I'm having issue with drip system, my barel is at the same height than my tank so how do you get the water to drip?

[lhforbes12]

Scott,
Ahhhh! That's why he used a Tee..
I was obviously confused. Thank you

[sleonard]

dandestroy,

They are exactly like Waynes.

I filter the water thru a 10-5-1 micron filter array (an RO unit w/o the RO) but the drip emitters still slow down and then clog way too soon. I am looking for some valves that I can use to replace the emitters. They'll need to be able to partially close to approx. the emitter flow rate. (I just don't know if ball valves will work or if I need to use some other type of valve to get the precision.) That should eliminate clogging and as a bonus I'll just open up the valves to refill after I syphon poop/waste. Right now I just wait for the emitters to fill the tanks back up.

I no longer use a storage barrel (the filter array has carbon block filters for chlorine). I go from the water supply to the filter array to the emitters.


lhforbes12,

Your welcome.

[dandestroy]

I really doubt that ball valve will work.

My only sugestion is the type of drip your using, did you bought the same than waynes from the drip store, they are supposed to be the best against cloging.

http://www.dripirrigation.com/drip_i...roducts_id=327

supposed to be
"The drippers have outstanding resistance to clogging"

An other solution would be to buy these one and when they clog you just open the flow to clean them up.

http://www.dripirrigation.com/drip_i...roducts_id=983

[lhforbes12]

dandestroy,

They are exactly like Waynes.

I filter the water thru a 10-5-1 micron filter array (an RO unit w/o the RO) but the drip emitters still slow down and then clog way too soon. I am looking for some valves that I can use to replace the emitters. They'll need to be able to partially close to approx. the emitter flow rate. (I just don't know if ball valves will work or if I need to use some other type of valve to get the precision.) That should eliminate clogging and as a bonus I'll just open up the valves to refill after I syphon poop/waste. Right now I just wait for the emitters to fill the tanks back up.

I no longer use a storage barrel (the filter array has carbon block filters for chlorine). I go from the water supply to the filter array to the emitters.


lhforbes12,

Your welcome.

Scott,
I use ball valves on my RO (I'm lazy so the water is piped directly to the tanks) they aren't terribly adjustable though. I would use a plastic air valve instead in your situation. Cheap and very adjustable.


Larry

[eastangliandiscus]

I have constructed a 1 and quarter inch reverse and it works well been running it for 50 hours now, on a 55 gallon tank with 24 gallon sump with about 14 gallons in it, with a max 1000lph pump running about 60-75% flow rate.

I put a additional air hole (1/8th) in the drain pipe about 1/2 inch above the top of the sump height (over sump of course) this way if the top hole gets blocked it still cant do a 'run away' syphon. the top air hole is in a removable cap that can be removed (syphon still runs) so i can add (if need be) meds etc so they mix straight in sump before reaching tank.

further modification will includes a air line glued into top 'U' bend and connecting to pump output, venturi style to self bleed any air out, not that i have any air in after the inital fill up.

If i knew sumps were this easy i would have changed over 10 years ago

cost to make sump

pump using previous external canister
tank/glass/silicone free
pvc pipe and bends £9.67
bio balls £13.99
alfagrog £9.99

total £33.65 approx $65.10c ( i guess) a premade overflow box alone cost £65 and wont fit my tank!

I was quoted £300 by a local specalist to install a sump!

[sleonard]

Scott,
I use ball valves on my RO (I'm lazy so the water is piped directly to the tanks) they aren't terribly adjustable though. I would use a plastic air valve instead in your situation. Cheap and very adjustable.


Larry

I went ahead and replaced the drip emitters with these ball valves. They work pretty surprisingly well but you're right, they aren't terribly adjustable. I found these air valves but haven't tried them yet. Are they the ones you're talking about?

Scott

[lhforbes12]

Scott,
I was actually thinking even cheaper, like the first one here: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produc...&N=2004+113403
I think the ones you chose would work even better though.

Larry