55 and 40 gal set up

[80in55]

Okay, so I have a 55 gallon that I would like to use as a display. It is a 4 ft tank, and 20'' tall. In this tank, I would like to have a weir in the top left corner going into a Calfo style overflow. This will drain down into the 40 gal, where I will have various media. The 55 will be planted, with driftwood and rocks. The 40 gallon will have floating plants in the middle chamber, such as anachris. Here is the layout I am thinking. The arrows are giving water flow. All help and comments are appreciated!!

[pcsb23]

Consider using a trickle tower into the sump and I would add mechanical filtrtaion before the bio. If you use a trickle you can have floss first to catch the big bits of gunk. Add loads of bio media too, I wouldn't use plants in the sump either, fill that with bio media. Just my tuppence worth.

btw welcome to simply!

[nacra99]

Hmm... that's a very interesting concept with the plants in the sump. I know that this works very well in a saltwater refugium, but i'm not so sure about a FW sump. I guess it will work if you have fast growing plants like hornwort and provide enough light in your sump.

I agree with Paul about the the prefilter (mechanical filtration) before the bio filtration. Otherwise your ceramic rings will be clogged up with gunk real quick.

Also... if you go with plants ... you want to watch that output sponge filter doesn't get clogged with dead plant material. If not it might back up the water flow rate and your return pump might start to run dry.

Marc

[80in55]

Thanks guys. What would you suggest instead of the plants?? I've done saltwater, and expect it to work in the same sort of way, except removing nitrates from the water allowing the plants to grow. It's just an idea, and if everyone doesn't think it will work, then I'll try something else! I'm totally open to suggestions right now!! Keep them coming!

[pcsb23]

The best way to remove nitrates is by means of water change. Even if you had enough plants to use the nitrates it is the associated DOC's that are generated too that are as much, if not more, the prolem. With the limited testing capability of most hobbyists testing for phenols and the like is near impossible, but we can easily test for nitrates, so we use that as guide. I am referring here to nitrates produced as a consequence of the nitrogen cycle. If you wanted to go down the route of the reefkeeper and a de-nitrator then if it were coupled with a protein skimmer and ozone then the DOC's would be kept in check. However this would only reduce the need for water changes and not eliminate it.

Personally believe sump or wet/dry style filters are the best type, you can pack them with bio media and develop very strong bio-filters that will adapt quickly to changing loads. Mechanical filtration should always be done before the bio.

Freshwater protein skimmers are now available, but are expensive and can break down. W/c's are simple, reliable and in my view more effective.

hth,

[80in55]

Okay, so what do you think of this? Should I get something other than the bio-rings, and maybe get some sort of Phosphate remover, or something else? I think that I would have a significant amount of Biological and Mechanical Filtration with everything else. I was just wondering if there could be anything else that I could use to replace the ceramic rings.

[pcsb23]

I like this one much more. Given reasonable w/c routine there would be no need for additional phosphate removal. Simple is always better imo, less to go wrong.

The ceramic rings work well for bio media, as does all sorts of other things from plastic toy soldiers to the latest eheim substrat pro. As long as nitrifying bacteria can grow on it then it will be fine.

[80in55]

So basically just pack this thing with media, and do a regular water change on it, and I'll be fine! Sounds like a plan to me!! I was going to add a Tee onto the return pump to do water changes. That way, I only need to get water from the holding container, and I can run a hose from the tee fitting to the sink. Will still siphon the substrate, which I have a python for, but it will be easier to do W/C with that T on there!

[pcsb23]

Basically yes, pack it with bio and your good to go with regular w/c's. The T is a very good idea, I've seen it done on some tanks and sump setups here in the UK, saves a lot of time!

Good luck and keep us posted.

[nacra99]

Yep... looks good !

But if you wish, you could cut down on the number of components by using only 1 bio-media instead of 2. (either ceramic rings or bioballs), and hence not have to split your biomedia compartment into 2. I personally prefer the bioballs. I find that they are slightly cleaner. But it is optional... your design looks good as it is.

Good luck!
Marc

[80in55]

I have a 9W UV sterilizer that I picked up this weekend BNIB, for only $15 and it came with a free pump. If I take out one chamber of bio media, and place this pump in there for feed the UV filter, would that work out?? I like this idea, but I may cut down on the chambers and just stack media instead of seperate chambers. I'm still debating it. Should the UV be inline on the return, or can I run it totally seperate and let it have it's own chamber?

[nacra99]

If you want the UV sterilzer in your sump, I am more inclined to have the intake and output of the UV sterilizer in seperate chambers. This would reduce the amount of recirculation (and maximize exposure volume) compared to if you have the intake and output in the same compartment.

Having it in-line on the return is also a good idea for a more or less permanent fixture, but make sure your return pump can handle the drop in head caused by the sterilizer.

Either way is fine...

[80in55]

I like your idea of seperate chambers. That will be easy enough to set up. I would be able to have it enter from the bio chamber and then exit into the return section.

[80in55]

Okay, so now here is my plan. I modified it a little to incorporate the sponge and floss into one,this way I can stack everything like the floss, the polyfilter, and any other sponge needed into the one chamber, and having two other chambers for biological/chemical filtration as needed. What do you think?

[Moon]

The best way to remove nitrates is by means of water change. Even if you had enough plants to use the nitrates it is the associated DOC's that are generated too that are as much, if not more, the prolem. With the limited testing capability of most hobbyists testing for phenols and the like is near impossible, but we can easily test for nitrates, so we use that as guide. I am referring here to nitrates produced as a consequence of the nitrogen cycle. If you wanted to go down the route of the reefkeeper and a de-nitrator then if it were coupled with a protein skimmer and ozone then the DOC's would be kept in check. However this would only reduce the need for water changes and not eliminate it.

Personally believe sump or wet/dry style filters are the best type, you can pack them with bio media and develop very strong bio-filters that will adapt quickly to changing loads. Mechanical filtration should always be done before the bio.

Freshwater protein skimmers are now available, but are expensive and can break down. W/c's are simple, reliable and in my view more effective.

hth,

Paul
What is the difference between saltwater and freshwater skimmers?

Joe