Agree! My next project to work on actually is solving the power/heating issue.Originally Posted by Mikscus
Have you tried something like this for auto water change?
Double Loop Siphon/Overflow
discus overflow.jpg
I have been collecting ideas for the day that I can afford to build my fishroom, lol. Mine will work on sprinkler system components and timers. Still some kinks to work out but I already have a few good ideas. Congrats!
he one thing I am working on right now is the heating. My electricity bill skyrockets when I hook up numerous heaters so i am working on a way to heat with hot water through pipes like a radiator. Maybe a false floor in the tank and run the coils under that so the discus cannot get near it. it would probably only be 85-90 degree water but still hot enough to heat the tank with no electricity. Just some ideas, nothing solid yet.
Last edited by White Worm; 08-23-2006 at 06:09 PM.
Agree! My next project to work on actually is solving the power/heating issue.Originally Posted by Mikscus
In discus limbo atm! So much to do and so little time!
heh Roncra..where have you been? why are you in fish limbo right now roncra?
Last edited by April; 08-23-2006 at 11:17 PM.
Yeah i knew there was unions but was having a hard time finding some. Wound up finding some today ata local hardware store. They'll definately do the trick!Originally Posted by ronrca
By the way ..... Lowes had the 1" flex PVC ........... It was $2.09 per foot . I picked up 4 feet of it to try out on a couple tanks. Im just going to use the normal cement i had for the rigid pipe.
Actually as tight as it fits ........... I might try it without cement 1st since its for the drains and will probably be below the valves anyway.
I was thinking of using those on my non drilled tanks if i went with sumps but it doesnt look like im running sumps now. Trying to keep the electric bill down too and will power the filtration with one air pump. I'd still be worried about an overflow with those though.Originally Posted by Mikscus
Im not looking for automated water changes ........... just something to make them easier and faster. Im just plumbing this one rack right now and if im not happy with the drain speed ........... i'll probably get a big hukin pump to drain them & the others with.
This is definately going to be a slow process as money got real tight real quick and at the rate im going .............. my fish might die of old age before im done .... lol.
I think now have what i need to plumb the drains for the one rack tomorrow tho. I'll try to get a few pics up tonight.
No prob. I was just concerned becuase on the other side of the room is your office equipment. I would hate to find a thread from you one day that your fish are on your computer.Originally Posted by CAGE-RATTLER
Yeah .... that wouldnt be to good .... lol.Originally Posted by crazie.eddie
Not to much to update but heres a couple pics showing whats been done the last couple days.
Actually if i wanted to show you what i did most the last couple days ............ it would be pics of me in lowes and HD standing in front of the PVC fittings scratching my head ....... lol.
Anyway .......... got the cheapo baseboard in and painted the window and door frame (now i gotta paint the door... lol) and added a top to the wooden rack (which would be perfect for three 20 highs).
Stopped at petco today and it was real tough walking out of there with out three 20 highs for $60!! They had plenty 29's left too and could use 2 of them too.
Not to much done with the plumbing yet but think i finally have it worked out how i want to do it. I put a 2" - 1.5" adapter on the 2 inch pipe coming thru the floor and will run 1.5 along the floor to the bottom of the rack and plumb seperate 1" lines from the tanks to Sanitary T's using rigid and flex to so i dont put to much pressure on the rigid tubing.
Im gonna rig up 3 sanitary T's together making a manifold to connect the lines to the tanks.
With the 2 to 1.5 adapter and the sanitary T on top of it ........... it raised it up higher than i like so i'll put the adapter on under the house and the T will be able to drop thru the floor and the drain pipe will start at floor level. Theres plenty of pitch underneath so it should work out OK i guess ..... lol. Just not sure how much pitch i need up top.
Yes .... im still rackin my brain but i'll get it worked out somehow .... lol.
Last edited by CAGE-RATTLER; 08-24-2006 at 12:00 AM.
By the way ........... My fish are wanting me to hurry up and finish too.
They layed eggs again toinight and have been laying every 5 days for the past few weeks!! But i guess its not a good sign when i see a couple white eggs after only 2 hours after the layed them!!
I have to get this room finished and get a hardness tester to where im at there.
And then try to find some RO water. Everywhere i go and ask ..... they all look at me like im crazy or something and have no idea what RO water is.
I snapped a couple pics of the turks fanning theyre new batch but they were to blurry to post.
Last edited by CAGE-RATTLER; 08-24-2006 at 12:17 AM.
mate looking good,love watching fishrooms coming together.
cheers
Darren Burgess
Townsville Queensland Australia
townsvillerocks@gmail.com
Thanx darren ........... Its starting to come together a lil now.Originally Posted by darren burgess
Well i got quite a bit done today ........... well at least i think i did ..... lol.
Here is a pic of the manifold i put together to run the lines up to the tank.
Turned out pretty good i think.
I wound up leaving the drain connector....at the floor where it comes in ..... like it was in the last pic and it did make it tough getting a good pitch to the rack. I raised the bottom tank up 3/4 inch to get where i wanted it.
You can see the strip i put under the tank in the pic.
Heres a pic of the Flex PVC hose with the connectors on it. They went on real nice and go up in the connectors 1 inch. i think it should be fine for the drains and i'll have to wait and see how it holds up. I'll probably use the same thing to run up to the top when i decide what tank or tanks go up there.
I wanted to give it a good 24 hours cure time before connecting it.