Great post Ardan.
Test Equipment and Testing Water for the Freshwater Aquarium
First we must know the characteristics of the tap water.
To do this we need to test for chlorine, chloramines, nitrite, nitrate levels, KH, ph and hardness.
Using a pool test kit we can test for chlorine.
For chloramines we can remove the chlorine part of chloramines with a chlorine removing agent such as novaqua, and then test for ammonia (chloramines = chlorine + ammonia)
Hardness is the amount of minerals in the water, mainly Calcium and magnesium. To measure this we can use an electronic meter to measure TDS (total dissolved solids), liquid reagents giving us GH, or dip test strips.
PH measurement can be accomplished with an electronic meter, liquid reagents, or dip strips. Ph stability is crucial in keeping discus. This can be checked by taking a PH reading then leaving the water sit in a dish overnight, then taking another reading and comparing the two readings. If the readings vary by more than .2 it is recommended to “age the water” before doing wc’s to “stabilize the PH”. “Aging water” (using turbulence with a pump or air stone) off gases (gets rid of) dissolved CO2 in the water which affects the ph.
The KH is measuring the “buffering capacity” (carbonates) in the water. This will tell you how “stable” the ph may be. PH stability is very important in the aquarium. If the KH is low (0 to 1 or 2), the ph will not be stable.
Testing in the Aquarium
Temperature can be measured with a variety of thermometers or even an electronic meter. Discus do best in temperatures of 82F to 86F,
Byproducts of the “Nitrogen Cycle” are very important to monitor to see how well the filtration is working. Ammonia and Nitrite are very toxic to fish.
Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate must be monitored using test strips, liquid reagents or tablet/powder test kits. Ammonia and Nitrite should be kept at 0. If there is ammonia, but the ph is below 7.0 then ammonium is formed and is non toxic to fish. However if the ph is below 7.0 and there is nitrite, then the nitrite becomes toxic as nitrous acid is formed (HNO2), which easily diffuses through the gill membrane. Salt at 2 tblsp/10 gallon can help the fish tolerate nitrite if the ph is over 7.0. Nitrate should be kept very low for discus, usually under 20 ppm, some try to keep it under 10 ppm. Keeping it low can best be accomplished with water changes.
Discus do well in a wide range of ph as long as it is stable.
Discus also do well in a wide range of hardness, but if spawning, a better hatch rate will result at lower hardness, usually under 100 micro siemens. (1GH = 17.9 ppm = 33 micro siemens) (Hanna electronic meters convert to micro siemens by multiplying the Hanna reading times 2, 50ppm tds=100ms) Salt in the water does not raise hardness (GH) but will raise TDS (total dissolved solids). Hardness can be adjusted by mixing in RO (reverse osmosis) water, which has all the minerals removed from the water. Do not use straight RO water as the discus need some minerals in the water for proper growth and metabolism and without minerals the ph will not be stable.
In the attached picture are the following,
Left to right = electronic temperature gun,
Blue meter = Hanna tds meter
Red meter = Hanna Ph meter
Upper right = liquid reagents for ammonia, nitrite, ph, gh, kh,
Lower right = liquid reagent for Nitrate
Lower right bottles = dip test strips for ammonia, nitrite, ph, kh, gh
Ardan
Great post Ardan.
Paul
Comfortably numb.
Thanks for the write up Ardan!
-al
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how much would a kit like that cost and wer would i get it at. tehy have amaster kit at petsmart but i want excat number not an estimate from a stick. thanks
If you are looking for a meter for ph or tds, try our sponsor athow much would a kit like that cost and wer would i get it at. tehy have amaster kit at petsmart but i want excat number not an estimate from a stick
http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?t=57388
For ammonia and nitrite, exact numbers are not crucial, If there is ammonia or nitrite in any great quantity it is harmful and indicates a filtration problem, and wc's are needed.
hth
Ardan
sorry for the late reply, long work weeks and heat have been wearing me out
You have all your bases covered with a setup like that. The only thing I might add (or mention) is having a buffer or standard solution for your pH probe. They drift easily and need to be calibrated once in awhile. Buffers usually come in 7.00, 10.00 or 4.01. Just get the 7 and check the probe once in awhile, and keep in mind that the less expensive meters probably won't correct for temperature, so keep the buffer close to the temp. of what you will be testing (e.g. don't keep it in the refrigerator).
Good post.
Respectfully,
Phil
I'm looking for a TDS meter, and looks like Our sponsor is no longer a sponsor. I did go ahead and sent Russ a PM, hopefully he'll reply.
great post, I think that shops should have this included as a handout so people can read and take the information in. I think the biggest problem with shops and the new owner is understanding the nitrogen cycle and just because the water is clear does not mean its safe for fish.
I am looking at a TDS meter and for the first time tested my water change water with NO buffer or minerals added and the GH was 4 so here in Melbourne Australia we have great water with a PH of 7 out of the tap. I also did a test on water from the hot water tank and the cold water tank and the difference was a GH of 2 so a bit difference...
Thanks again and these posts clear up a lot of questions as I too am looking for a TDS meter.
Grant
I've purchased a HM TDS-4TM. It's the smallest, lightest on the market, with a 3-year warranty. Hopefully, it'll be much more durable than that.
What is the gh and kh. I read it but still doesnt get it. THANKS
gh = general hardness (measures the amount of minerals in the water)
KH= carbonate hardness (helps regulate and stabalize ph)
hth
Ardan
Hi Ardan
Could you add the following your sticky.
Electronic Test Meters for:
1. Ammonia
2. Nitrite
3. Nitrate
4. Oxygen
Thanks
Stew
http://forum.simplydiscus.com/album.php?albumid=94
Hi,
I don't have test meters for those and never have used or seen one, so I can't really comment on them.
Ardan
Just curious if anyone has used this particular meter or not, it's made by HANNA INSTRUMENTS, model HI 98129 - Combo pH/EC/TDS/Temp Tester w/LR EC
the specs are:
Range pH 0.00 to 14.00 pH
Range EC 0 to 3999 µS/cm
Range TDS 0 to 2000 ppm
Range Temperature 0.0 to 60.0°C / 32 to 140.0°F
Resolution pH 0.01 pH
Resolution EC 1 µS/cm
Resolution TDS 1 ppm
Resolution Temperature 0.1°C / 0.1°F
Accuracy pH ±0.05 pH
Accuracy EC/TDS ±2% F.S.
Accuracy Temperature ±0.5°C / ±1°F
Temperature Compensation pH: automatic; EC/TDS: automatic with ß adjustable from 0.0 to 2.4% / °C
Looking to pick one of these up to replace some very very OLD meters, one of which just gave up the ghost recently.
thanks.