I always add center braces on all tank stands that are 6 feet or longer. It is better safe than sorry to have the extra support.
Hello simplydiscus,
I was wondering if I needed the center brace(vertically along the 6' length) for this stand that I'm building. It's a 6' long 22" wide and 32.5" high. There will be a sheet of 3/4" plywood on the top and bottom. All the load is going to be distributed on 2x4's lying on their flat sides along the floor. It's just drawn out by hand and scanned. (Hope it doesn't cause you to go blind)
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...07095209PM.jpg
thanks for looking.
Last edited by Oilers; 04-23-2007 at 01:11 AM.
I always add center braces on all tank stands that are 6 feet or longer. It is better safe than sorry to have the extra support.
Scott
Worst thing is that you put it in and you didn't need it.
Much better than the alternative of you didn't put it in and you see the stand sway or worse collapse.
Sean
"It is better to be a broken piece of jade than a molded piece of clay"
125 gal reef, 4 planted tanks, 210 gal and 75 just starting
Scott
I usually add braces on tanks 48" and longer especially if they are higher than 20".
As already mentioned, better safe than sorry.
In discus limbo atm! So much to do and so little time!
It doesn't cost that much to put it in! What's another buck or two compared to your discus.
If you are using 2X3's for the top frame then you really should have a center brace. Not only will it support the middle but it will help straighten the normally not so straight 2X3's
Oilers, I really think you should put a center brace. I am no carpenter or expert but I did on all mine and it makes me feel much more at ease .
roberto.
Here is a picture of them . The single tank is a 125.
I have found that if you add some 2x4 to make an X on the back from one top corner to the oppopite bottom it takes the shake out of the stand. or you cover it in ply wood to take the shake out..
HTH
2x4 yes
2x6 preffered eventually it will bow
double 2x6 or double 2x8 with a piece of plywood sandwiched (glued and bolted) in between, no
creating or adding extra supports in the back of the stand and not in the front will make the side create differences in the height of the stand(by extra bowing in one side) that will add extra stress on the seems possibly leadind to leaks
When science and magic collide, the story begins.
BTW, why do you need it out of the way? For looks?
You could always do it removable, or make a side door if what you want is to be able to remove a Sump or secondary tank.
When science and magic collide, the story begins.
Dump a five gallon bucket on the floor, now imagine that mess 50x bigger......You need the brace
The long and short of it is you don't need it but it won't hurt.
There really is more wood in there than you need to support the downward force, but if you really want it stable I would suggest using 3/4 plywood on the back and sides. That will give you the lateral strength that you need if the stand isn't perfectly plumb or level.
Even using single 2x2's with 1/2 inch plywood screwed to them will give a stronger platform than what you can get with your 2x3 construction when you nail it together.
If you want to know what it takes to support a 220g or so tank, go look at a petco and see what marineland or oceanic uses for their stands.Lots of particleboard,hot melt glue and staples.
thanks for the replies everybody. my intention was to put 3/4 plywood on the top anyways. but after about a month, it started bowing, so i had a welder weld a beam for me to place in the middle.