OverFlows

[Chrisb]

I'm thinking about getting a 125gal or 120 gal from GlassCages. I can get an overflow put on and a sump. I have never had this type of filtration, but looks like a good way to hide stuff like Co2, heaters, and uv.

Few question?

Is this ok for a planted discus tank?
Do overflows filter better then canisters?
And how quiet are they vs a canister like a Eheim Pro 2?

Thanks,
Chris

[susantroy1]

I'm thinking about getting a 125gal or 120 gal from GlassCages. I can get an overflow put on and a sump. I have never had this type of filtration, but looks like a good way to hide stuff like Co2, heaters, and uv.

Few question?

Is this ok for a planted discus tank?
Do overflows filter better then canisters?
And how quiet are they vs a canister like a Eheim Pro 2?

Thanks,
Chris

answer to questions:

1, yes it is OK for planted tanks no matter what species you house.
2, Yes the filter bio load better, lacks in substrate cleaning (overflow up top)
3, Canisters are quieter, also less off gassing if using C02.

Troy

[Harriett]

You can just shut off the sump pump when you clean and use a python to clean the substrate. When you are done, and the tank has been refilled, turn your sump back on and you are in business.
Sumps are a terrific way to filter if you have a good system. I used CO2 with a wet dry for years--lost a bit more gas but not a problem--I ran my C02 line directly into the pump mouth on the return side ...the bubbles got churned up on their way back to the tank and through the spray bar at the bottom back of the tank--it worked fine. The CO2 reactor was too bulky and a PITA in comparison.
They do make some noise though--I switched to a big canister when I moved this tank to a bedroom a few years ago...too much noise for sleeping for me!
best regards
Harriett

[Ed13]

I used CO2 with a wet dry for years--lost a bit more gas but not a problem-

A PVC check valve on the overflow tube will allow you to run the "sump"(any water holding vessel will do) almost completely full of water and have the incoming water exit the tube(it will need a vent ) below the surface of the water in the sump reducing to very little the amout the CO2 outgassed. Not to mention increasing the total water in the system and reducing noise.
Just a tip

[alxjss]

A PVC check valve on the overflow tube will allow you to run the "sump"(any water holding vessel will do) almost completely full of water and have the incoming water exit the tube(it will need a vent ) below the surface of the water in the sump reducing to very little the amout the CO2 outgassed. Not to mention increasing the total water in the system and reducing noise.
Just a tip

What do u mean by check valve. I have a small hole in the pvc pipe which is supposed to be quiet. Not too bad once i get the top on it i guess. I don't think it will be too loud tho... My first sump. hope i like it......

[Ed13]

What do u mean by check valve. I have a small hole in the pvc pipe which is supposed to be quiet. Not too bad once i get the top on it i guess. I don't think it will be too loud tho... My first sump. hope i like it......

I meant a PVC ( for your pipes) check valve (to restric flow of water, in this case to only one direction so when there is a power outage the pipe returning water to the tank doesn't create a syphon and flood the floor) You'll only needed if you intend to run the sump full of water, though, which will prevent excesive off-gassing the CO2 from the water in planted tanks.) BTW, don't worry I'm just being picky as always and thinking too much this is not something commonly used, it was only an inside tip.

The hole you mention is only there to allow air to exit in a controlled fashion as to reduce the sounds of the water.

[Darrell Ward]

Hey Eileen. Did you find a container to use as your sump? You never did tell us, and I was curious. I'm sure you'll love the convenience of this type of filtration. I have 4 of them, and wouldn't trade them for a dozen canisters. Be sure you add a in-line check valve (you can get one at any hardware store) to the outflow line from your pump. It's good insurance. As stated above, this will prevent water from running back down your return lines from the tank through the pump, overflowing your sump when the pump is shut off. You can also do this by drilling a small air hole at the end of the return line in the tank to break the siphon, but I prefer the check valve myself.

[alxjss]

Hey Eileen. Did you find a container to use as your sump? You never did tell us, and I was curious. I'm sure you'll love the convenience of this type of filtration. I have 4 of them, and wouldn't trade them for a dozen canisters. Be sure you add a in-line check valve (you can get one at any hardware store) to the outflow line from your pump. It's good insurance. As stated above, this will prevent water from running back down your return lines from the tank through the pump, overflowing your sump when the pump is shut off. You can also do this by drilling a small air hole at the end of the return line in the tank to break the siphon, but I prefer the check valve myself.

sorry for the late answer. This is the first i've seen. Forgot about this thread. I do have a container. It is set up as a wet/dry for now. My plans r to build my sump out of my 55gal, which i plan on doing this week. I am on vacation so i have the time. I just want to no about an overflow on the sump so i can use all of the 55gal then just some of it. I don't understand the concept on how to make one. can anyone help w/this. Don't forget, my sump is under my stand.,

[dan3949]

Overflows and sumps are very common on saltwater reef tanks. There is a tremendous amount of info on numerous different designs that are easy to find using a Goggle search on overflow or silent overflow. You will find lots of info.

There are a few issues you want to be aware of with sumps/overflows.

1. Make certain your gravity drain from your tank to your sump has a greater capacity (i.e. flowrate) than your return pump. This will prevent an overflow of your tank.
2. Have a siphon-break in the return line from your sump to your tank. This is often 2 small holes drilled in the return line just a fraction below the normal water level in your tank. This prevents a siphon from forming when the return pump is turned off that will drain the water out of your tank and overflow your sump.
3. Gravity drain overflows from your tank to the sump can be very noisy if not properly designed. A simple open pipe works great, but is very loud (sounds like a continuos toilet flush). There are several DIY overflow designs that significantly reduces the noise. The Durso is probably the most popular. A Goggle search on "DIY overflow", "quiet overflow", or "silent overflow" will bring up several options.
4. You need to allow sufficient empty volume in your sump to contain the "live head" in the return line. When the return pump is turned off, the water in the return line will empty into the sump. You need to leave sufficient volume in the sump (usually 1-1.5 inches) to accomodat this volume without overflowing. In theory, a check valve will prevent this volume from gravity draining back to the sump when the pump is off. However, the valve is bound to leak one day and unless an overflow of the sump is no big issue, I would not rely on it.

[Ed13]

2. Have a siphon-break in the return line from your sump to your tank. This is often 2 small holes drilled in the return line just a fraction below the normal water level in your tank. This prevents a siphon from forming when the return pump is turned off that will drain the water out of your tank and overflow your sump.

Good points there dan, but it needs to be pointed out that having the siphon-break is not enough it needs to be periodically inspected to make sure debris, algae and even snails don't clog it.

[korbi_doc]

Hi guys, I'd like to set up cpl tanks with a sump...had my 125g with sump in NJ, but none now...my biggest problem then was the evaporation of water while away for few days (horse shows, lol) which worried me cuz it would stop the water flow & cause pump problems...is there a way to avoid this? I know I need to learn how to create an auto water changer for my tanks, but I'm not there yet....

Dottie

[dan3949]

The most common solution is installation of an auto top-off (ATO) system. If you have a sump, the ATO will keep the sump water level constant by adding water to replace evaporated water. You can buy fully-assembled ATO systems from most any large on-line retailer (Dr Fosters), or you can buy the necessary components and assemble yourself (and save at least $50). Aquahub.com has nice, inexpensive DIY ATO systems with detailed installation instructions and all the parts you need. I have two systems from them that have run for 8 months with no problems.

Another alternative is to install a continuous drip system feeding a tank with a gravity overflow. I have recently setup a 125 gallon discus tank with a continuous 0.5 gph drip. The tank has a gravity overflow. Thus, I will get a daily 10% water change and the tank level stays constant with no effort on my part. I run the water through a carbon filter (fortunately no chloroamines in my tap water) and our water has a good mineral contant (80 ppm) and decent pH (7.4). I have been running the system for 8 weeks. Water parameters are rock-solid and and it works great The discus will be added next week.

[korbi_doc]

Thanks so much Dan, will certainly look into both options, it would help me immensly for all my tanks....I'm still workin' to setup the fishroom, but it's moving along ok, just slow.....

Dottie

[Ed13]

I don't trust ATO too much(although they do work) because they can short etc after a while and I'm also looking for a way to actually empty automatically from the tank. If you just need to fill the tank then this or a simple float valve are the way to go.
I did found some normally closed solenoids valves 115v for $60 dollars on the net and this couple with an automatic shut off or a float valve will do exactly what I need, instead of a flow thru set up. So it'll be between $80-$100 per tank to actually do nothing but feed the fish unless an automatic feeder is employed
I'm trying to pull some strings to get some good quality valves from a supplier here(at cost, but it's not looking good) since I'll need lots of them for full automation. If this works out I'll post the set up.

[dan3949]

The ATO systems I am refering to utilize a float switch (in the sump) that is connected to a 12V volt relay, that will power a small pump/powerhead sitting in a makeup water tank. Almost every operating salt water reef tank uses this type of system. Because of the high intensity lights, these systems can have over 1 gallon/day of evaporation. Because of their widespread use, these systems are very reliable as long as you prevent snails from triggering your float switch and do not omit the 12 V relay (this prevents shorting out the float switch). This system costs $39 + $12 pump + makeup water tank.

FYI, my flow-through drip system costs:

$15 for all PVC parts for a DIY overflow
$20 for carbon filter (should last 6 months)
$5 plastic valve to adjust drip rate.
$10 tubing/hose and other fittings.