Canister Filter Not Running

[1Chuck9669]

Hello,

I ran into a problem when I got home this afternoon, my canister filter was not running . I immediately diconnected the filter, drained the water out of the housing, rinsed the filter pads, and replaced the polishing pad, cleaned the impeller (not much to clean), reconnected the filter and started it up. Then I immediately changed 70% of the water. My test readings before I changed the water was:

pH: 7.4
NH3/NH4 0.25
NO2 5.0
NO3 20.0

I know that if the canister filter is starved of oxygen the bacteria will die . I have no idea how long the filter was not running . It was running at 5:30 AM when I left for work (the return water pushed the food around like normal). I discovered the issue at 4:00 PM.

I do have two cycled 30g sponges in the tank as a supplement.

What can I expect if my bacteria died, and what should I do from this point?

How soon can I obtain an accurate reading after completing a water change?

May Our Threads Cross Again...

[1Chuck9669]

Hello,

I ran into a problem when I got home this afternoon, my canister filter was not running . I immediately diconnected the filter, drained the water out of the housing, rinsed the filter pads, and replaced the polishing pad, cleaned the impeller (not much to clean), reconnected the filter and started it up. Then I immediately changed 70% of the water. My test readings before I changed the water was:

pH: 7.4
NH3/NH4 0.25
NO2 5.0
NO3 20.0

I know that if the canister filter is starved of oxygen the bacteria will die . I have no idea how long the filter was not running . It was running at 5:30 AM when I left for work (the return water pushed the food around like normal). I discovered the issue at 4:00 PM.

I do have two cycled 30g sponges in the tank as a supplement.

What can I expect if my bacteria died, and what should I do from this point?

How soon can I obtain an accurate reading after completing a water change?

May Our Threads Cross Again...

Current readings 1 hour after WC

ph 7.6
NH3/NH4 0.25
NO2 0.50
NO3 5.0

Thanks for your advice...

[Dkarc@Aol.com]

How many fish are in the tank??? Stop feeding immediately. I am most concerned about your nitrite readings (NO2). I would immediately put salt into the tank. Not only will this help with stress, but it will also help with any potential nitrite poisoning. Discus can tolerate a touch of ammonia, but i would not feed anything until those levels come back to zero. Keep doing the water changes, keep the salt in the tank and keep testing. Hopefully the sponge filters will do their share and convert the ammonia and nitrite. It might take a while, but if they are cycled well, than it shouldnt take long for them to work the ammonia/nitrite into nitrate.

Another option ive seen people do is take your sponge filters and squeeze them out over the filter material in the canister filter, hoping to recolonize the filter material in the canister.

-Ryan

[1Chuck9669]

How many fish are in the tank??? Stop feeding immediately. I am most concerned about your nitrite readings (NO2). I would immediately put salt into the tank. Not only will this help with stress, but it will also help with any potential nitrite poisoning. Discus can tolerate a touch of ammonia, but i would not feed anything until those levels come back to zero. Keep doing the water changes, keep the salt in the tank and keep testing. Hopefully the sponge filters will do their share and convert the ammonia and nitrite. It might take a while, but if they are cycled well, than it shouldnt take long for them to work the ammonia/nitrite into nitrate.

Another option ive seen people do is take your sponge filters and squeeze them out over the filter material in the canister filter, hoping to recolonize the filter material in the canister.

-Ryan

Thanks for the reply, Ryan.

I have a 125g w/ 10 Discus, 5 Harlequin, 6 corys, and 5 bristlenose. I do have the salt at my disposal and will add the recommended dose. I have been perfoming 50% WC's before this event, and will continue. I also use Prime as my conditioner.

I have asked once before but never recieved a response about the dosing directions on the label for Prime in a nitrite emergency. I have tried thread lurking for the answer, but have not yet found one. The directions state

..."To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is >30degrees C (86 degree F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half a dose."

What constitutes a nitrite emergency?

Does the half does direction for high temps imply for normal use, or for a nitrite emergency?

Thanks in advance!!!

[1Chuck9669]

OK,

I have added the salt. I know that when I perform a WC I only add salt to the amount of water I am replacing.

Oh yeah, I also have 36 Ghost Shrimp.

Thanks again,

[1Chuck9669]

Water test as of 5:15 AM Mountain Standard Time

ph 7.4
NH3/NH4 0.25
NO2 1.0
NO3 5.0

All the fish seem to be doing well. Have not, and will not, feed today. Water change this afternoon after work.

Any more suggestions?

Thanks,

[geleen]

Water test as of 5:15 AM Mountain Standard Time

ph 7.4
NH3/NH4 0.25
NO2 1.0
NO3 5.0

All the fish seem to be doing well. Have not, and will not, feed today. Water change this afternoon after work.

Any more suggestions?

Thanks,

Looks like you lost some bacteria since the NO2 is still rising daily.
You could up the WC to 75% daily and I would add the prime at the recommended (emergency)dosage to detoxify the nitrite.
J

[1Chuck9669]

Thanks J,

Current water readings before WC at 3:45 PM...

pH 7.4
NH3/NH4 0.14
NO2 1.0
NO3 5.0

Since the ammonia is down a little from the morning reading, and the nitrites and nitrates have stayed the same, is there a chance the bacteria in the canister survived?

There has been no feedings in 24 hours.

The fish seem to be doing OK, hunting for food nudging each other, out and about and not hiding.

Thanks in advance!

[Dkarc@Aol.com]

Without knowing how long it was without power...it is possible some of the bacteria survived. Just keep with the water changes and salt. Again, because of nitrite issues. Ammonia isnt a huge issue since at a pH of 7.4 and assuming a temp of 86, a very small actual percentage of the ammonia is in its harmful state known as "unionized" ammonia (0.0028 mg/L of unionized ammonia is the calculated level...levels as low as 0.05 mg/L is harmful to fish). Nitrite on the other hand, very minute levels is too much. Just give the filters time, they will come back.

-Ryan

[1Chuck9669]

Just wrapping up here.

Well, my tank water is reading zeros all across the board. I don't think that I lost as much benefical bacteria as I had thought I would. It's funny, the December issue of Aquarium Fish International has an article in the Aquabotanist section called "A Bacteria Myth". In a nutshell, the artcle describes how long bacteria can possibly survive, depending on the type of filter being used. The author states that in a canister and hang-on-the-back filters, the bacteria that turns ammonia into nitrites can survive for several days. It was explained that while bacteria needs oxygen, the bacteria also has an anaerobic metabolism that slowly releases nitrogen from ammonia and nitite. This done without any mention of plants and their effects on filtration.

Since my area experiences five to six power surges a year, I will be getting a Uninterupptable Power Supply (UPS), along with proper maintenance of the filter, to ensure my filter stays running.

May Our Threads Cross Again...

[Polar_Bear]

Hopefully your fish are fine. No one asked how your fish are doing, I suspect that they are, and always were, fine. This leads me to this: A filter which is not running for a few hours is not going to lose any appreciable amount of bacteria and I highly suspect that the "real" problem lies with your testing reagents. If your tank really did have those levels of pollutants your fish would definately have shown signs of stress, even to the point of having ammonia burns. If it were me I would go out and buy a new set of testing reagants and then retest, I suspect you will find that the real levels are MUCH lower than you were led to believe.

[1Chuck9669]

Hopefully your fish are fine. No one asked how your fish are doing, I suspect that they are, and always were, fine. This leads me to this: A filter which is not running for a few hours is not going to lose any appreciable amount of bacteria and I highly suspect that the "real" problem lies with your testing reagents. If your tank really did have those levels of pollutants your fish would definately have shown signs of stress, even to the point of having ammonia burns. If it were me I would go out and buy a new set of testing reagants and then retest, I suspect you will find that the real levels are MUCH lower than you were led to believe.

Hey, PB

Yes, the fish were OK all along. I did purchase a new test kit, but a few days after. I suspect the filter had not been out of action too long before I found it that way.

Thanks for asking about the FISH