HOB recommendations?

[KDodds]

Haven't used an HOB in a LONG time.

Tank specs: 135g Oceanic, no drills, 2x Rena XP3 Canisters, low tech planted, 4x39W T5, Eco-Complete Red substrate

Source Water Specs: pH 7.4, 350ppm TDS, virtually all CaCO3

I'm looking to run peat pellets in an HOB. I'd like to use the smallest HOB possible that will a) use the least power, b) be the most compact and still fit over the 135 lip, yet C) still produce enough flow and have enough volume to effectively lower pH/KH into "acceptable" ranges. I'm looking to halve dKH (19) and drop pH to at least 6.5. Any preference for peat pellet brands? Yes, I have an RO unit, no, I do not want to mess with mixing or reconstituting. The RO feeds an auto top-off, wc mix vat for my 450 marine, automated, and I'd rather not set up additional automated features for the discus tank. I'm not looking to go with a "huge" Emperor 400 or HOT Magnum, rather loking for something smaller and less obtrusive but still effective.

[poconogal]

I'd look at one of the Aqua Clear filters. They have large filter boxes and you can put a decent amount of media in. I have an AC500 from 1993 (now the AC 110) that holds as much as a small canister. I've had the big sponge, floss, ion exchange resin and peat pellets in the filter box all at once and still had a bit of room for more stuff.

[KDodds]

Thanks. Yeah, I was looking at the AquaClear filters. Just worried the smaller models won't fit over the edge of the 135.

[DiscusOnly]

I have a 38 gallon oceanic show tank with the bigger lip and the AC70 doesn't fit. No problem with the AC110. I don't think it's necessary the size of the tank, just style.

[KDodds]

Yeah, no doubt. Only I can't find specs on the lip for the 135, nor on the clearance on the filters, hence, problem.

I know for sure that some small HOBs won't fit, and I've eliminated them, but which ones will? And will the turnover/media box be large enough. Sigh.

[DiscusOnly]

I have both the 70 and 110, I'll take a measurement for you later today.

[KDodds]

Cheers. Thanks a lot! Now if someone has lip measurements on the 135?

[DiscusOnly]

I just did the measurement of the ac70. Only 1" clearance. There is no way that's going to work with a standard 135 gal. tank. I checked my Oceaninc 38gal (same foot width and height as a 75gal but half it's lenght) and the lip is 1 1/8". This is the same as my 75 gallons (even thought they are marineland).

The AC110 has a 1.5" clearance.

Van

[KDodds]

Ugh. Looks like I'm going to have to go with a huge HOB just to play it safe. I contacted a few manufacturers to get design specs, but none have replied (it's been a week, more for most). I really wanted to get the tank as far back against the wall as possible, but I guess that's not going to be an option.

[FLGirl1977]

Why a HOB? Why not just go with a canister if you want to put it close up against the wall?

[poconogal]

Ugh. ....I really wanted to get the tank as far back against the wall as possible, but I guess that's not going to be an option.

That's why I switched from my AC500 to my Rena XP 3 canister, to save space behind the wall. It saved about 4 inches which meant a lot, at the time. FLGirl's suggestion is good, why not get another canister? The XP 1 would work if there's enough room for the amount of Peat you want to put in.

[KDodds]

Tank specs: 135g Oceanic, no drills, 2x Rena XP3 Canisters, low tech planted, 4x39W T5, Eco-Complete Red substrate

With a huge reef, a FOWLR, Seahorses, this tank, dogs, cat, Guinea Pigs, birds, snakes, and turtles their babies and eggs, a 5 year old, and both my wife and I working, I'm looking for the HOB to minimize time needed to swap media. With the HOB I can simply switch and go, no shutting down, opening, removing baskets, replacing baskets, resealing, repriming, and restaring. The only reason I ever open my canisters is to rinse accumulated detritus, if necessary, as I do not use chemical media (carbon). So, the HOB would be solely for running the water softener/acidifier, which would need to be replaced at intervals.

[FLGirl1977]

How often would you need to switch it? I'm asking because I would highly recommend a Eheim Ecco 2236, they're super-easy to open and no priming involved. It was my first canister and a dream compared to my Pro II... (I got the Pro II though because I needed something larger)

[KDodds]

Oh, forgot the bonsai in the above "things to do". LOL.

Well, that's the thing, I don't rightly know. I'll need to bring, initially, the water down from pH 7.4(min) and dKH ~20. So, I suspect, at first at least, I'll have to change it often. I don't plan on massive water changes, though, so after initial setup, much less often. Top off on the tank as it was was about 1-2%/week, covered. The new set-up might be running open topped, with eggcrate (hatchets planned) of course, so I suspect that evap. rate will increase to as much as 5% weekly. Water changes will only be done as (if) necessary. It's possible that, initially, I may have to change the peat weekly or more frequently. But, ongoing, it should be much less often.

[FLGirl1977]

Yeah, I know about those hatchets, jumpy little things! lol... One thing that I have noticed between my HOB's (for quarantine tanks & shellie tank) is that the evaporation is MUCH greater than with my canisters. In fact, I never really noticed hardly ANY evaporation with my canisters. That doesn't mean that it didn't, but that the amount was SO much less than the HOB. Really, to open my Ecco 2236 takes literally no time whatsoever, much less than dealing with my Pro II...