Please Help. Discus have inflamed Gills. Parasites?

[pcsb23]

Do the PP first and once only, then a big w/c, then dose with the maracyn 1&2. Daily w/c's and re-dose Good luck.

[David Rose]

Here's a thread Al accumulated various other info together that will help you prepare for using PP.

http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?t=70066

[marcus319]

Thank you both. After treating with the PP and prior to the Maracyn 1&2, do I need to use carbon or anything to pull out the PP or will the large water change suffice?

[pcsb23]

The large w/c should suffice, I usually do a 80%+ w/c then do another straight after

[David Rose]

PP is a harsh oxidizing agent and can do harm if not used properly. Are you comfortable from your reading in knowing how to use it? If you have any questions prior to treatment, please be sure to ask.

Are you getting PP crystals or Oxy Clear fizz tabs?

[Moon]

I use Hydrogen peroxide to neutralise PP.

[David Rose]

Good point Moon! You definitely want either Hydrogen Peroxide or Prime on hand to neutralize the PP in case of an overdose (water is purple and not a light shade of pink).

Actually, I use Prime anyway during all my water chagnes, so I add it just before refilling my tank during the water change following treatment for added safety.

[pcsb23]

Just a word about neutralising PP.

Using something like prime will work and is relatively safe, you still need to do a large w/c though, partly to remove the prime/PP concoction and partly to remove the oxidised matter.

Using H2O2 you can easily end up damaging the fish as there is a delayed reaction using it an dmost people keep on adding it. H2O2 is an aggressive oxidser in it's own right (and can be used in place of PP). You still need to do large w/c's for the same reasons as above.

So why not elimiate the risk? Just do 2 large w/c's, (or one @110%) no more PP, oxidised matter, and no risk. I never neutralise PP now.

[vss]

We can also use vitamin C tablet to neutralize PP after the treatment, which I think might be an easier way. Every time I grinded 4-5 tablets and desolve them in a little ammount of water in a cup bedore I dose the PP, and after the treatment I pour the vitamin solution in. The tank water changes back to transparent in a few seconds. Still, a large W/C is required no matter what.

-Xiaofei

[marcus319]

Thanks everyone. I was late in reading the posts and lost one of the Discus who didn't even look sick (isn't that always the way). My tank was purple and not pick (previous mentioned in a post). I did do an immediate water change when I saw the fish stressed.

The PP didn't seem to do much in terms of visual effects. The gills are still inflamed and have white on them. I'm on to another w/c and then Maracyn 1 &2.

As a reference I did move them to a small 10 gallon tank, then completely striped down the main tank and cleaned everything thoroughly.

Also here's the water the specs again:

Water Temp: 82 (was 86 but lowered as per suggested temp for PP treatment)
Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0
TDS: 109
Total Chlorine: 0
Total Alkalinity :40
PH:6.5

Should I start using aquarium salt?(concerned about water hardness) Should I start using carbon (after treatments).

I love these fish but am simply afraid when I buy them I'm sending them to an early death. Really feel like a bad owner. I have one left that I've had for 6 years, the others are less then 2yrs.

Thanks for everyone's help!
Mark

[David Rose]

Hi Mark,

Sorry to hear of your loss. No carbon until you're finished with the M1 & M2 treatment given it will remove the meds from the water. No worries about adding salt, it will raise TDS, but high TDS isn't bad when it's because you added a therapeutic level of salt.