They are ugly buggers arent they?
I do not have a microscope. A few years ago I had a veterinarian from our local fish club come over with a microscope. He took gill scrapings from a few fish and then showed me the gill flukes in the microscope. If you read the link Eddie posted in the first response, there were a couple that had Koi examined and scoped after treatment.
Jerry Baer
it's just a box of rain
They are ugly buggers arent they?
Scott
Well I ordered it today and I will let you guys know how well it works. Im going to do a three step treatment and by what they say not do water changes and see what happenes. Ill be doing this next week once it arrives . I hope it works cuz if so Ill be so so so happy! Dunno what ill do with the rest of it LOL but hey.
I also ordered some today. I have had no luck with PP eradicating flukes, which my fish have had for a long time. The main reason the PP hasn't worked is that I can't keep it viable for more than 20 minutes.
I don't think it's the organic load, I think it's because of the water conditioner: Prime. Prime reacts with PP similar to hydrogen peroxide. And I have to condition because my water supply has chloramines.
I spoke with the developer of MinnFinn today on the phone, and while he cautioned me that he had no scientific evidence with tropical fish, he related several anecdotal stories of success. Also, he said that for smaller fish, start with 1/4 dosage and observe for 15 minutes, and if there's no bad reaction, up it to 1/2 dose (not the concentrated kind).
He doesn't believe that MinnFinn will react with Prime, so that's why I'm willing to pay $75, to try to finally get rid of those d*&%$#+@ flukes.
I'll post my results after treatment.
I am eager to hear how your treatment works Don. I too have had a fluke problem for a while but luckily in just one group that I painstakingly keep seperate. I wonder if some of us have a type of resistant super fluke ?
Scott
You don't need to condition your water when treating with PP, given that PP is far more reactive at 2ppm than a relatively small amount of chloraamines.... Also Chloramine-T is an external treatment often used on Koi and as long as your water has a pH above 7 there is no reason not to try it on discus. It is used for treating flukes and the like on Koi. As with all treatments at your own risk be it - I haven't tried Chloramine-T on discus (yet).
Paul
Comfortably numb.
Thats good to know Don ... I was going to try with less in the beginning and up the doseage... . Its going to be fun trying to figure out the dosage for my 30gal breeder LOL... The 120gal will be easy . If you get yours before I get mine let me know.
Paul, I wondered about that - not treating the water with the conditioner so that I could use the PP. But I was always concerned that not treating the water would stress the fish. But as you explain, I guess the PP is really more of an irritant than the chloramines, for a short time of 4 hours anyway.
Well, I've already paid for the Minnfinn, so we'll see how that works. Thanks for the feedback!
I'm interested in how this product works too so keep us informed please
Paul
Comfortably numb.
Will do for sure... I cant wait to get this product in and give it a test... an expensive test but anything for the discus community especially if it works like it says.
In "Exotic Discus of the World" edited by Dr. Clifford Chan a chapter by Dieter Untergasser, suggests that the gill fluke has become resistant to most of the medications that we use (no real surprise) nothing is able to kill the fluke eggs which is key, so the fish get reinfested..however he goes on to say that the eggs can be killed using three different methods 1. by drying the tank for three days, 2. using temperatures of over 60C for two hours or 3. disinfecting with alcohol. I think drying is the easiest. I have tried this and have had success although I had to to follow the treatment on a couple of tanks a second time (I probably moved eggs when I moved the fish) So, you kill the infestation and move the fish to a fresh tank previously cleaned thoroughly dried for several days including filter etc. You can use either PP or Formaldehyde to knock the flukes off. I check with a microscope the feces in the bottom of the tank verifying that the flukes are indeed dead before I move the fish. Surprisingly I had to increase the amount of formaldehyde suggested in the 10 hr treatment in Dr Chan's book as I found fluke still alive after 9 hours, mind you they were on the bottom and probably dying.
The product mentioned in the string will it kill the eggs? key question, we need to do an experiment using a microscope determine if their are flukes 3 or 4 days after the treatment is yes than the eggs survived.
v
This is one of the reasons I use alcohol to sterilize all tanks. Good to see you around Vern!
Eddie
Recieved the Minnfin today... It leaked a little bi8t from shipping but thats ok as Ill never need that much anyways... maybe a few drops or so LOL.
Active Igredients are:
Hydrogen Peroxide 5.9% (I knew I smelt that when I opened the box)
Peracetic Acid 1.4%
Inactive Ingredients 92.7%
I decided to dose at full strength as I dont see much in harmful stuff in the ingredients... so far its been 10min and fish dont really care LOL. Swimming and acting like nothing was done. I will keep you guys updated on how well this stuff does. I will be dosing this 3 times just to make sure it does what it should LOL.
No harm done to the fish what so ever... a little bit more heavier breathing went on in the 29gal breeder but nothing major really... the fish ate during the treatment LOL. So the test will be if they flash ever again... Im going to do another 2 treatments to make sure tho . Sadly I dont have a microscope to see if it really did work for sure sure... but Im sure I can tell by how my fish act LOL.