I cant'quite comment on Heckel specific conditions but,
Sorry to hear this. Have you tested this water parameters? Besides the normal for aquarium tests, chlorine? how dif is from the tap water? and how does that water alter it's chemistry after being aged?
DI units alone are usually discouraged because of how quickly an aquarium type(10" canister for example) resin is exhasuted if not being used after an RO system to further purify very clean water. Commercial DI units work much better, but they are expensive and not available everywhere.Due to the above, I've decided to invest in a De-Ionization unit. I know that people generally discourage DI units and advocate RO units instead. However, due to constraints I have, I will be using the DI unit (please don't give me advise on how to overcome these constraints, the DI unit is my only option). Basically, it's a 3 stage unit that contains 1 carbon block, and 2 different types of mixed-bed resins. The refills aren't too pricey so it suits me ok.
It doesn't make sense to me at all that you can't fit a DI unit and not an RO membrane housing, unless I'm missing something. I know you didn't ask for advise on how to overcome space constraints, but a simple stand alone clip(you'd need two and extra tubing) for a membrane housing is under $2 and you'd even be able to mount the membrane housing remotely from the canister(above them, below them or even in another wall), just saying
It's gonna be tough to reconstitute the water without holding tanks.Due to space constraints, this water is coming straight from the tap into the unit and into the tank. No holding container whatsoever. I intend to have peat in my filter and indian almond leaves in the tank for tannins.
I'd just like to know, how should I reconstitute my water coming from the DI unit? Is Seachem Equilibrium sufficient? How much should I put per 100 gallons of water changed? Or should I get something like Seachem Discus Buffer + Discus Trace? Or is it ok to use the DI water "straight from the tap" (may be dangerous due to the tannic acid from peat?)?
Thanks in advance!
Just brainstorming here, but I wonder if a mixing valve being fed by the DI water and tap water would work here.
If sediment and carbon filters alone work for you needs then by all means, this would be the best option. I'd def be doing this anyways.
Now in your case if you this route,you might want to be looking at 1-2 extra sediment filters and 1-2 extra carbon filters since you don't know what the "newater" has.
This will remove sediments, chlorine, and other impurites and toxins from the water but it'll do little to alter TDS, after all anything smaller than the smallest micron filter will still pass. You'd have to test the water with those .5 micron.
HTH and good luck working this out.