To reseal or not to reseal...that is the question

[chaoslite]

Well good luck to you if you try the hot water treatment. If that doesn't work do the one I was really suggesting.

[Apistomaster]

To Jnnnn,

I recommend the basic interior sealant removal per my general description in my abovr post then proceed with an entire interior silicone seal.
The old putty used in the Metaframe(long time since I heard of that brand) still provides essential padding between glass and stainless steel frame even though it has lost it's adhesive and resilient qualities over time. A properly done interior seal should restore the tank to usability. The slate will clean up well enough by using acetone to get a good new silicone seal.

[Jhhnn]

Right now, it's just a passing fancy of sorts- I haven't figured out where to put some of the tanks I already have... along with the water changing apparatus I want...

I have space constraints, bad ones... I'd move to a place with a full open basement, but I'd be moving by myself...

[brewmaster15]

Hi all,
I'm digging this thread back up because I am re-sealing a tank...I've done many many tanks here and have had really good results over the years...I have always used "aquarium silicone"... now I got to comparing ingredients and both The aquarium silicones and GE silicone 1 (without additives) both are 100 % silicone. So I bought afew tubes to try....I just resealed a 45 hex and its curing now.. Kind of a test run for a 125 gal I need to seal. What I noticed was how fast it cured compared to "aquarium silicones"that I have used. Now I thought that was interesting so I called GE's tech support and asked what makes a silicone formulation suitable for use in Aquariums.

The answer from GE was ...the curing time...Aquarium silicones are designed to take much longer to cure....and that increases the bonding time and tensile strength of the bond....

So the take home message is depending on your particularly tank, regular old silicone may workfine.... but I think for my 125 gal tank....I'll be using "aqauarium silicone"...just in case!


hth,
al

[David Rose]

Interesting...I used 100% silicone from ACE on resealing my 125G that just went into operation. I'll cross my fingers and keep you posted.

[Keith Perkins]

Thanks for the information Al, and here I thought I'd lost my handimans touch. I've tried twice to reseal my 72 bow with GE Silicone I without success. I got a new leak on the last attempt, so once the fishroom is done I'm going to try to fix the leaking corning with more GE Silicone I, but if that doesn't work I'm going to strip it for the third time and invest in some aquarium silicone. As much work as it is to completely strip a 72 of its old silicone, I would have preferred spending more on silicone the first time than repeating the process, especially if it turns out to be twice.

[Apistomaster]

GE Silicone Type I is fine for resealing.
The only precautions that Al's information implies is that Type I may not be the best choice if one is constructing a large all glass aquarium. I understand the supposed differences between the properties between so-call aquarium grade silicone sealant and GE Type I but I am not convinced by the information provided to Al by the supplier.
Only testing according to ASTM Standard Tests for adhesion and tensile strength by an independent materials testing laboratory would carry any weight with me if they were to show there really is any difference between the two "brands". I have been building all glass aquariums since 1968 using Dow Corning Aquarium Silicone sealant which was later bought out by GE and to the best of my knowledge and experience, I have never found any difference between the two. Only a few have the rights to the proprietary formulae for various silicone sealants. I think GE is the one making the material and other companies re-brand material purchased from GE. I have built tanks as large as 100 gal.s out of both brands, the original Dow Corning and GE Type I and I cannot detect any difference in strength of the bond and durability.
I have some aquariums that are now 40+ years old and others built since then using GE Type I which are about 25 years old and still work. I am comparing the structural characteristics which are more demanding than just what is required for sealing. Any time a resealed aquarium still leaks that is because of improper preparation of the surfaces to be sealed or mistakes made in the application of the sealant. A reseal job done correctly will not leak nor is it dependent on any structural loads. It merely has to have a sufficient bond to the sealed surfaces. Any sealant like GE type I which can hold a large tank together for decades is certainly an adequate material to simply seal the inside well enough to prevent leaks.
Not only have I the practical experience but I have also had to write technical specifications for sealant use on an industrial scale and have many years of experience working in materials testing laboratories. I am very experienced at hearing the spiels made by product reps touting the superiority of their products, lots of whom brought "miracles in a can" to my attention and I had the freedom to let out small trial contracts for them to prove whether or not their products perform better than their competitors as most claimed. Few ever prove their materials are actually superior to any approved equal. Most turn out to be equivalent at best which is actually sufficient. It then only comes down to which product with equivalent properties is the better deal, ie, the least expensive equivalent.

[Darrell Ward]

I also have used regular aquarium sealant, and GE. In my experience, both did the job. The most important thing to remember, is the surfaces of the glass must be perfectly clean, or you'll get a weak seal that will give away and develop leaks. I learned the hard way to wipe the surface down with alcohol before sealing, as even the oils from your skin and fingers can mess up your attempt.

[Apistomaster]

I have found acetone to be a better solvent when it comes to removing residual silicone sealant than alcohol. Of course, if I could not obtain acetone then I would fall back on Isopropyl alcohol.

When one is resealing the interior joints of an aquarium after completing all the cleaning prep work, the areas to be sealed should be masked off with masking tape and as soon as the sealant has been spread, the masking tape should be immediately removed.
This allows the sealant to be spread evenly and under light pressure to help the sealant penetrate any avenues where leakage previously occurred. Be sure the tank has been allowed time for any residual water present in the previously leaking areas has completely evaporated and is completely dry. Direct exposure to the sun out doors can drive off the residual moisture pretty fast but a day or two of drying in the sun is a good idea.
Every step should be given all due attention and the repairs should not be rushed. A well done job should last an indefinitely long time.

[Skip]

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... so lots more say its not worth it... i wonder if you can get a professional to caulk it

but who does that?!