I still want to know why a larger diameter pipe is not beter that a smaller.
here is my air system. it is ap 100, ran with 3/4inch pvc no glue,ran in a loop w/ balve valve blow off, 100 outlets running 85 sponge filters and there is plenty left in the pump for more outlets I would say I am at 50% of what the pump could handle. I didnt think 3/4inch pvc would cut it and give me good even pressure but I was suprised at how well the small pipe worked.
this pic was before I had it running that is why there are no hose connectors on the hose.
I still want to know why a larger diameter pipe is not beter that a smaller.
Mama Bear
In this case, the LPH26, only flows around 1 CFM @ 1.5psi (42" of H2O). 1 CFM doesnt need a very large pipe to provide minimal flow resistance. 1/2" pipe would indeed work, but 3/4" is larger diameter and is easier to tap/drill into. If the flow rate was larger, say 25CFM (blower), then a larger PVC piping system would be required (1.5"minimum).
A loop will equalize pressure to an extent, but just having the system properly designed/sized/installed will go a long way towards that.
Linear piston pumps (and diaphram pumps as well) cannot tolerate any back pressure on them. Each cycle/rotation pushes a given volume of air, with any excess no where to go. If a pump operates like this for an extended period of time, excessive wear/tear will occur and a rebuild kit will be required much sooner than anticipated. A blower on the other hand can tolerate some back pressure due to it's design....
I tell people everyday (literally) when installing a linear piston/diaphram air pump is to plumb your system as normal using whatever size pipe is appropriate for your flow. But at the very beginning of the system coming off the air source, install a globe valve (size depends on air flow in use, typically 1/2"). Turn system on with all the air outlets full open (normal operating flow). This includes the globe valve. Start turning the globe valve closed until you start to see air flowing at a near even rate in all the tanks. Once you find that sweet spot, give it another 1/2 turn or so (to compensate for dirty diffusers as they age down the line). Single point air-bleed off makes life easier.
-Ryan
-Ryan Karcher
Aquatic Eco Systems Technician
I think the larger pipe would make no difference on air pressure. It would hold mor air but the pressure should be the same. I use extra valves to bleed of the air also. I put in about ten more valves than I figured I would need and use them to bleed off. Also I have seen where your air line runs around the whole room and then divided in half with another line. Can not remember the logic behind that one. Would not depth of tank be regulated by your valves?
Laurence
thanks everyone and thanks for the pictures AirCapital....appreciate that...does anyone else have any????
It's interesting to hear the different opinions on this matter.
Agreed Liz...very good info from Ryan....
LPH26 pump, end cap , running 18 hydros , 3/4 45 ' piping , five years of service . Cool and running Great !
Roberto.
THanks Alpine good to hear that pump works well....
-Ryan Karcher
Aquatic Eco Systems Technician
LPH26 pump from John @ Jehmco, been running for over 8 yrs....& unlike the advice given here (couldn't manage that loop in this huge room) it's been run on 3 walls & has an end cap/stop....so far never any problem from that, just didn't know how to do a loop in this situation....
Dottie
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Thanks Dottie!!!!
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Here is my layout. figure 8 loop. I can adjust the air pressure in each corner. i blow off any residual air into my water storage tanks. hope this helps.
Kenny
Thanks Acroken
that's an awesome idea to vent the unused air to the storage water....I like that!!!! Also, a very impressive set-up!!!!!
Last edited by dean9922; 05-07-2010 at 11:44 PM.