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Thread: Rough start: I think my wilds got ick

  1. #136
    Registered Member DiscusBR's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rough start: I think my wilds got ick

    Quote Originally Posted by strawberryblonde View Post
    If the white spots disappeared it means that they've shed the outer hull (the cyst) and fallen to the bottom of the tank. They will rapidly multiply now and then a new swarm will attach to the discus. Now is the time to vacuum everything and do as big a WC as you can handle. I'd even do two of them if you can manage it.
    I am doing 60% WCs everyday, always vacuuing the bottowm. That is the maximum I can do right now. And I still have the UV filter working in the tank.

    Quote Originally Posted by jpdevol View Post
    Ditto Toni's advice and try to get temp to 90F (30C) if possible.The Protazol is counterproductive at this point, so do not redose.
    jpdevol, 90F is 32C, not 30C. The temperature in my tank is now 31C (87.8F). I have no plans of using Protazol again.

  2. #137
    Registered Member jpdevol's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rough start: I think my wilds got ick

    Shows what happens when I try to do conversion from memory rather than look-it-up.

    I hope that this works for you; the combo of UV, vacuuming and heat will hopefully defeat the little buggers. The thickened gills will also hopefully heal to normal; right now they are still inflamed and fish stressed.

  3. #138
    Registered Member DiscusBR's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rough start: I think my wilds got ick

    Another update and some questions. Yesterday I noticed that my 10 red crystal tetras were covered with white dots. When I came home today, two of them were dead. I immediately did another 60% WC.

    In terms of the 5 remaining discus, only one is eating. Surprisingly, the fish that is in worse shape and was very dark took some bites. Now that the color of this fish is better I can see that the bottom of its gill in one side is dark, like a burn. Any idea of what that is?

    I also noticed that the poop of one discus was white/transparent and watery. Is this common during a ick infestation?

    As I explained, the temperature of the tank is now 87.8F (31C). Should I increase it to 89.6F (32C)?
    Last edited by DiscusBR; 05-10-2011 at 08:12 PM.

  4. #139
    Registered Member jpdevol's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rough start: I think my wilds got ick

    The darkened gill is likely damaged gill membrane. Often a parasitic infestation of the gills results in damaged tissue that will turn in color from red to grey.

    The poo could be from GI irritation from the protazoa or another cause.

    The increased temp may provide a marginally better chance of disrupting the Ich life-cycle.

    Sorry about the Tetras my friend.

  5. #140
    Registered Member DiscusBR's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rough start: I think my wilds got ick

    The big lesson of my case of this thread is: IF YOUR DISCUS GET ICK, IMMEDIATLY ADOPT THE HEAT TREATMENT AND RAISE THE TANK'S TEMPERATURE !!!

    Three days after I raised the temperature, big change. All 5 fish look better, white dots are gone (although I can see them in my red crystal tetras), the discus are all swimming normally and four fish are eating!!! The only fish that is not eating is the same that was not eating BEFORE the indicent. This fish has been in my tank for 3 weeks and I have not seen it eating yet.

    Three days ago two discus were very dark in a corner, one of them laying on its side. Now both have good color, are swimming with the others and are eating. I deeply regret not adopting the heat treatment since the beginning.

  6. #141
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    Default Re: Rough start: I think my wilds got ick

    A very long time ago, my tank got ich, and the combo of Quik Cure and a 90 degree tank temp purged it permanently. To this day, I don't know how it happened, either-- an errant trodont in the change water, maybe??? at nay rate, heat and Quik Cure. Both together work wonders real quick (or should I say Quik).
    1250 bb pot-planted: twelve discus (six my babies), cardinal tetras, sidthimunki loaches, angelfish. 35 gallon hex tank: hospital
    40gallon grow out tank: snakeskin juvies

  7. #142
    Registered Member jpdevol's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rough start: I think my wilds got ick

    Quote Originally Posted by DiscusBR View Post
    The big lesson of my case of this thread is: IF YOUR DISCUS GET ICK, IMMEDIATLY ADOPT THE HEAT TREATMENT AND RAISE THE TANK'S TEMPERATURE !!!

    Three days after I raised the temperature, big change. All 5 fish look better, white dots are gone (although I can see them in my red crystal tetras), the discus are all swimming normally and four fish are eating!!! The only fish that is not eating is the same that was not eating BEFORE the indicent. This fish has been in my tank for 3 weeks and I have not seen it eating yet.

    Three days ago two discus were very dark in a corner, one of them laying on its side. Now both have good color, are swimming with the others and are eating. I deeply regret not adopting the heat treatment since the beginning.
    Glad to hear of your success

  8. #143
    Registered Member DiscusBR's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rough start: I think my wilds got ick

    Hi all,

    Another update for those who have been following my saga. The fish are dong great with almost no sign of sickness (well the dark spot in the gills of one of them can still be seen, but the fish is doing great). And after getting advice in the "Foods and nutrition" section, I introduced bloodworms today. The only fish that was not eating took the bloodworms! It had not eaten for 24 days! What a sense of relief...

    It is too early to commemorate. The fish are scratching themselves against objects very rarely, but they are still doing it. But I fell optmistic.

    The heat treatment has been going on about a week .For how long more do you think I should keep the high temp (87.8F, 31C)?

    Mauro

  9. #144
    Registered Member jpdevol's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rough start: I think my wilds got ick

    It was YSS who recommended the "heat treatment" and his advice was to maintain heat for one week past the last visible sign of infestation. Your progress sounds very good.

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