Algae nightmare: Please help

[warblad79]

UV sterilizer will get rid some of the algae bloom if you don't want frequent water change

[Chicago Discus]

Josie, he has a valid point your water may be in a safe stable range to do so, however we are all not so lucky. I live in a small town and the amount of chorine gas they put in my water can change from one day to another, if I did water changes straight out of my tap some days would be fine but others will kill, or stress my fish out to much. On top of that the ph comes out of my tap at 7.3 and after aging will settle at 8.5, the ph swing is not to bad but don't like to put the stress on them always leads to problems IMO.

Thats good point, discus br does your PH swing after you age your water and if so how much.......

[DiscusBR]

Thats good point, discus br does your PH swing after you age your water and if so how much.......

I have never compared the before and after. But jaykne's point is important. I don't trust the consistency of tap water here in Rio de Janeiro.

[DerekFF]

Aging with safe and aeration releases all the chlorine gas so I'd don't age and just add safe then tap it gives the chlorine gas a chance to work on bacteria and algae.....

No...otherwise people wouldn't use safe/prime

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[TNT77]

No...otherwise people wouldn't use safe/prime

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Actually aeration and even light will remove chlorine..it's the chloramines that safe/prime is needed for in aged water.

[judy]

Try a phosphate reducer combined with overdosing Excel.

[jaykne]

Actually aeration and even light will remove chlorine..it's the chloramines that safe/prime is needed for in aged water.

I age and use aeration before I use my water but also use prime to be safe, if the water department overdoses with the chlorine gas does not all come out before water changes. The fun of living in a small town LOL.

[TNT77]

I age and use aeration before I use my water but also use prime to be safe, if the water department overdoses with the chlorine gas does not all come out before water changes. The fun of living in a small town LOL.

If it doesn't burn your nosehairs out its not enough chlorine.

[Orange Crush]

Amazon swords are great plants for discus tanks and they suck up the nitrates and produce a lot of oxygen....

[DiscusBR]

Great discussion here about aging water, chlorine, chloramines and the use of Safe/Prime.

Try a phosphate reducer combined with overdosing Excel.

Thanks, Judy. Can you please explain what is a phosphate reducer?

Amazon swords are great plants for discus tanks and they suck up the nitrates and produce a lot of oxygen....

That is an idea. In the new setup of my tank I am planning to add some anubias and one big Amazon sword.

Any other ideas on how I can reduce the brown algae issue?

[jimg]

I didn't read through all the posts but what lights and how long also what foods and how much play a big role. brown diatoms will occur almost regardless of phosphates,silicates etc. especially on newer tanks and bright lights

[DiscusLoverJeff]

After reading this great thread I can say this about BA, it usually starts with overfeeding and poor filtration as well. What are you running in you filter? Also, poor water movement can also come into play.

I had the same issue a few months back and I got rid of my BA in 2 weeks. I added a second filter, increased water movement, and continued my 50% water changes 3 times a week. I also introduced pressurized CO2 into the tank as I have plants. My lights from my T5 are on 10 hours daily but I only run 2 of the 4 bulbs. My tank cleared up nicely.

As far as phosphates go, .5 is not bad but too much phos can be a good cause of this problem as well. I was dosing KH2PO4 which contains phos and I cut it out all togther. Now, I dose in smaller abouts and use Excel to help control algae.

Good Luck!

Jeff

[judy]

Great discussion here about aging water, chlorine, chloramines and the use of Safe/Prime.
Thanks, Judy. Can you please explain what is a phosphate reducer?

I don't know what they have available where you are, but there are two types. One is a liquid you add that precipitates the phosphate out of solution in the water, and you use that after checking to make sure your carbonate hardness is high enough to handle it-- use of this liquid will lower the Kh quite quickly. The advantage is it works instantly. You can see the white cloud of phosphate develop and settle to the bottom of the tank (it stays bound up and so never returns to the water).
The other is a green sheet you buy and cut to fit your filter. It acts as a mechanical filter while absorbing phosphate,. Because my tap phosphate is never lower than 1,0, I use the sheets always, and occasionally bump it down further with the liquid. One on the market is call Foz-down, I think,

[DiscusBR]

I didn't read through all the posts but what lights and how long also what foods and how much play a big role. brown diatoms will occur almost regardless of phosphates,silicates etc. especially on newer tanks and bright lights

I am starting a test with the lights today. I wiped down the whole tank and I will leave the lights off for few days. I will report if it made any difference in terms of algae growth. As I explained, I don't consider overfeeding to be a possible cause to this particular problem. It is also not a new tank, has been established for 8 months.

After reading this great thread I can say this about BA, it usually starts with overfeeding and poor filtration as well. What are you running in you filter?

The tank has a Eheim 2217 canister filter with all the traditional media (no carbon) and two sponge filters. I assume that is more than enough for a 80g.

Also, poor water movement can also come into play.

I can see this as a possible cause of problems. I don't think the canister spray bar and the two sponge filters provide enought water movement. I know discus don't like too much water movement, but after I end the test about the possible effect of lights I will add a small powerhead in the back of the tank.

I had the same issue a few months back and I got rid of my BA in 2 weeks. I added a second filter, increased water movement, and continued my 50% water changes 3 times a week. I also introduced pressurized CO2 into the tank as I have plants. My lights from my T5 are on 10 hours daily but I only run 2 of the 4 bulbs. My tank cleared up nicely.

Nice to know about your good results. I have no plans of adding another filter or CO2, though.

As far as phosphates go, .5 is not bad but too much phos can be a good cause of this problem as well. I was dosing KH2PO4 which contains phos and I cut it out all togther. Now, I dose in smaller abouts and use Excel to help control algae.

I will try to get Excel, which was also soggested by others.

Good Luck!

Jeff

Thanks. I will need it.

I don't know what they have available where you are, but there are two types. One is a liquid you add that precipitates the phosphate out of solution in the water, and you use that after checking to make sure your carbonate hardness is high enough to handle it-- use of this liquid will lower the Kh quite quickly. The advantage is it works instantly. You can see the white cloud of phosphate develop and settle to the bottom of the tank (it stays bound up and so never returns to the water).
The other is a green sheet you buy and cut to fit your filter. It acts as a mechanical filter while absorbing phosphate,. Because my tap phosphate is never lower than 1,0, I use the sheets always, and occasionally bump it down further with the liquid. One on the market is call Foz-down, I think,

Thank you, Judy. That is very interesting and useful info. I can't use the first option because my water is extremelly soft. I will look for the green sheet type, though.

[DerekFF]

Actually aeration and even light will remove chlorine..it's the chloramines that safe/prime is needed for in aged water.

Im saying no to the idea that the chlorine/amines will have any effect on algae or bacteria in the tank.

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