wet/dry filter

stephcps · 09-13-2009, 10:12 AM

OK

I just bought a 150 gallon off cl. It had been used with saltwater before. It has two built in overflows and came with a sump, etc. I have never used this type of filter at all. This will be my first time with anything other than HOB. I think I have the basics down, but this is like a foreign language to me. Can anyone send me in the right direction for very basic guide to how to properly hook all this up? How to make sure there is not a flood in my house if we lose power, etc etc. I understand how the filtration works but not the plumbing part of everything.

Thanks!

Steph

David Rose · 09-13-2009, 04:47 PM

I'm no expert with only just setting up my first wet/dry sump. So I'm sure others will certainly jump in to help. In the meantime, here's the diagram that came with my sump.

My specifics were as follows:
I got a great deal on a 140gal "Reef Ready" with two overflows built in each side and pre-drilled, so I didn't use the overflow box that came with my sump. I did add ball valves to both the drains and the returns for my peace of mind and ease of changing things out should I ever need to. I'm assuming you don't have a reef ready aquarium, but I've seen where others have still added inline ball valves should they want to remove the sump for cleaning or replacement. I also added a "T" joint to split my returns.

Given my tank was Oceanic and my wet/dry was from Eshopps, I needed to adapt the 1 1/4" drains with reducers to 1" for my Eshopps intakes. The one thing I did learn from this is to be sure to use plumbers tape on all threaded joints and silicone for added measure allowed to cure for 24hrs and adjustable clamps. Any ACE, Home Depot, or Lowes plumbing department techie can help as well. I just took my diagram and a sample hose with me.

As you can see my HOB filters are still in place until the wet/dry has fully matured over a few weeks or so, then remove them and add the Oak canopy.

Hope that helps get you started,

stephcps · 09-13-2009, 07:09 PM

Yes that was very helpful! I think it is slowly starting to sink in!! LOL
I think I really just need to get it cleaned up and start tinkering. Did those hoses come with you set-up? I like the idea of the flexible hose instead of all rigid PVC.

Did you put your heater in the sump? What kind are you using? Controller?

Thanks!!!

David Rose · 09-13-2009, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stephcps

Yes that was very helpful! I think it is slowly starting to sink in!! LOL
I think I really just need to get it cleaned up and start tinkering. Did those hoses come with you set-up? I like the idea of the flexible hose instead of all rigid PVC.

Did you put your heater in the sump? What kind are you using? Controller?

Thanks!!!

The hoses came with the sump, but if you do choose to go the soft plumbing route over hard plumbing you can find them on Dr. Fosters and Smith and other websites. Vinyl can be found at Home Depot, Lowes etc, but it's less flexible. My return hoses from the pump are vinyl from HD.

I could put a heater in the sump, but given my two Jaggers are too long, they won't fit. Maybe when it comes time to replace them. I don't have a Controller yet either, but as my knowledge and budget allow I may.

You might want to use the "search" feature in the menu or look under the plumbing and filter section as well. I like to do that and value the other members who take the time to share their ideas as well before I make any final decisions.

Best,

tcyiu · 09-15-2009, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlr1961

The one thing I did learn from this is to be sure to use plumbers tape on all threaded joints and silicone for added measure allowed to cure for 24hrs and adjustable clamps.

I would not use silicone on any bulkheads that you plan on adjusting or moving. Once cured, it doesn't like to move. I have a living case of that right now. In trying to re-do one bulkhead, but my hand slipped, and the piece with silicone that was NOT supposed to move, moved. So now, I have this really slow leak that I can manage with plumbers tape. But I will need to basically re-do the whole dang thing later.

Siliconed joints cannot be adjusted.

Tim

David Rose · 09-15-2009, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcyiu

I would not use silicone on any bulkheads that you plan on adjusting or moving. Once cured, it doesn't like to move. I have a living case of that right now. In trying to re-do one bulkhead, but my hand slipped, and the piece with silicone that was NOT supposed to move, moved. So now, I have this really slow leak that I can manage with plumbers tape. But I will need to basically re-do the whole dang thing later.

Siliconed joints cannot be adjusted.

Tim

Ouchh! Sorry that happend Tim, but you make a good point. I have a different thread started when I was setting up my wet/dry and a couple of members recommended silicone and I did use it.

I hope I planned sufficiently in my set up and won't have to move anything. That's what I'm counting on, but will bite the bullet if I ever do need to move anything.

Take care,
David

09-13-2009, 10:12 AM	#1
stephcps Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 87 iTrader: 1 (100%)	wet/dry filter OK I just bought a 150 gallon off cl. It had been used with saltwater before. It has two built in overflows and came with a sump, etc. I have never used this type of filter at all. This will be my first time with anything other than HOB. I think I have the basics down, but this is like a foreign language to me. Can anyone send me in the right direction for very basic guide to how to properly hook all this up? How to make sure there is not a flood in my house if we lose power, etc etc. I understand how the filtration works but not the plumbing part of everything. Thanks! Steph

09-13-2009, 04:47 PM	#2
David Rose SimplyDiscus Sponsor Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Harrisburg, PA Posts: 2,318 iTrader: 122 (99%)	Re: wet/dry filter I'm no expert with only just setting up my first wet/dry sump. So I'm sure others will certainly jump in to help. In the meantime, here's the diagram that came with my sump. My specifics were as follows: I got a great deal on a 140gal "Reef Ready" with two overflows built in each side and pre-drilled, so I didn't use the overflow box that came with my sump. I did add ball valves to both the drains and the returns for my peace of mind and ease of changing things out should I ever need to. I'm assuming you don't have a reef ready aquarium, but I've seen where others have still added inline ball valves should they want to remove the sump for cleaning or replacement. I also added a "T" joint to split my returns. Given my tank was Oceanic and my wet/dry was from Eshopps, I needed to adapt the 1 1/4" drains with reducers to 1" for my Eshopps intakes. The one thing I did learn from this is to be sure to use plumbers tape on all threaded joints and silicone for added measure allowed to cure for 24hrs and adjustable clamps. Any ACE, Home Depot, or Lowes plumbing department techie can help as well. I just took my diagram and a sample hose with me. As you can see my HOB filters are still in place until the wet/dry has fully matured over a few weeks or so, then remove them and add the Oak canopy. Hope that helps get you started, __________________ Check out my IGO PRO website for Simply Members -or- my SD sponsor section for Active Group Orders "stickies"! Last edited by David Rose; 09-13-2009 at 06:53 PM.

09-13-2009, 07:09 PM	#3
stephcps Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 87 iTrader: 1 (100%)	Re: wet/dry filter Yes that was very helpful! I think it is slowly starting to sink in!! LOL I think I really just need to get it cleaned up and start tinkering. Did those hoses come with you set-up? I like the idea of the flexible hose instead of all rigid PVC. Did you put your heater in the sump? What kind are you using? Controller? Thanks!!!