Need some help with my KH

[Charlyc11]

Ok last night I filled the 55 gallon barrel with RO and my starting point was a PH of 5.8 and a TDS of 10. I added 22 grams of Continuum Aquatics Flora Viv Reconstitute RO per the instructions, somehow I think that they are wrong. I weighed 1/2 a teaspoon and it weighs at least 4 grams (not 2 grams per label) so I dosed on the low side and used the grams not teaspoons measurement. I used the second recommended dose of 1 teaspoon (used 4 grams per 10 gallons). This morning after 8 hrs. TDS=170 PH=7.20 GH=3 KH=1 (one drop yellow). So it looks like I hit the Discus target but that was not what I was going for since the majority of the fish I have are PBR's and ABN plecos. The Discus pair will adopt to their parameters but what I got now is kind of real soft so I don't know how well the Rams and plecos will do. I will wait the full 24 hrs. and se were it lands. Also if the PH will stick and not drop with a KH=1.

Here is what they say on the back label.

Basic: Dissolve 2 grams, about 1/2 teaspoon of product for each 10 gallons (38 L) of aquarium capacity for initial tank set up or for water used for water changes, for Discus and other soft water fish. Use 1 teaspoon for angelfish, bettas, barbs and general freshwater fish and 2 teaspoons for goldfish and koi, Central American cichlids, and live bearers such as swordtails, platies and mollies. Advanced: Discus and other soft-water fish normally require 80 to 130 ppm total dissolved solids (TDS) or 1 to 3 degrees GH and mixed freshwater fish normally require 160 to 230 ppm TDS or 3 to 6 degrees GH. Consult a book for the correct TDS (total dissolved solids) and GH for the type of fish you are keeping. This product alone is sufficient for soft water aquariums. If your fish require harder water, you should measure both TDS & GH, because GH only measures hardness ions such as calcium and magnesium and doesn’t measure monovalent ions; while TDS measure all ions in solution. This product will raise TDS more than it will raise GH and Flora Viv GH+ will raise GH more than it will raise TDS. When used together in desired proportions, both products allow for a wide range of parameters suitable for any freshwater or brackish aquarium. Do not greatly exceed the dosage recommended for the type of fish you are keeping. Caution: Keep out of reach of children. Not for human consumption. If ingested drink water, contact a poison control center. If in eyes flush with water.

[jeep]

I think you're on the right track. I wish we knew exactly what's in that stuff. Once you establish stabile parameters you may want to begin experimenting with your own recipe.

I don't know how ABN's and Rams will be affected by your new water but I don't think it will be harmful. I keep an ABN in discus breeder tanks sometimes. I use RO to bring TDS to 80 for spawning then immediately switch to straight tap water with a TDS of around 400 and they do fine with the changes. I haven't bred Rams yet but the spawning conditions are similar to discus.

[Charlyc11]

I think you're on the right track. I wish we knew exactly what's in that stuff. Once you establish stabile parameters you may want to begin experimenting with your own recipe.

I don't know how ABN's and Rams will be affected by your new water but I don't think it will be harmful. I keep an ABN in discus breeder tanks sometimes. I use RO to bring TDS to 80 for spawning then immediately switch to straight tap water with a TDS of around 400 and they do fine with the changes. I haven't bred Rams yet but the spawning conditions are similar to discus.

I started breeding rams so I remove the eggs and they go in straight RO with MB for 48 hrs. close to wiggler stage they go back to tank water with the parents.

[LizStreithorst]

"If ingested drink water, contact a poison control center."

How can a poison control center help if there are no ingredients listed? On the other hand since it instructs you to drink water it can't contain anything really harmful.

So far this seems to be the best solution you have come upon. I don't see why the water you make with this stuff could be bad for rams or Discus.

[Charlyc11]

"If ingested drink water, contact a poison control center."

How can a poison control center help if there are no ingredients listed? On the other hand since it instructs you to drink water it can't contain anything really harmful.

So far this seems to be the best solution you have come upon. I don't see why the water you make with this stuff could be bad for rams or Discus.

If this works out the do sell large containers in powder and liquid. I order a 500 ml bottle to see the economics of each but they should be the same liquid would be easier. The cost is not to much higher


Product Description
Reconstitute RO is a high quality, multi-component, broad spectrum mixture of all mineral ions including General Hardness (GH), alkalinity (KH) and all major, minor and trace minerals required for optimum health and longevity of freshwater fish, invertebrates and plants. When mixed with filtered water prepared by reverse osmosis, distillation, or deionization, it will convert those filtered waters into a natural environment in which all aquarium inhabitants will thrive. It has been used to raise discus and other freshwater fish, as well as keep whole systems in breeder, public and home aquariums. Reconstituting reverse osmosis, deionized or distilled water ensures complete user control over aquarium water parameters. Treating purified water with Reconstitute RO allows the user to customize hardness and alkalinity for the type of fish you’re keeping. This is especially important when keeping and breeding sensitive or expensive species such as discus or wild caught fish. Using reconstituted purified water will also help solve many aquarium keeping water quality issues and prevent the entry of unwanted nutrients such as phosphates that are prevalent in public water supplies.

Directions
Shake well prior to use: Add 1 capful, about 1 teaspoon of product for each 5 gallons ( 19 L ) of aquarium capacity for initial tank set up or for water used for water changes for Discus and other soft water fish. Use 2 capfuls for angelfish, bettas, barbs and general freshwater fish and 4 teaspoons for goldfish and koi, Central American cichlids, and live bearers such as swordtails, platies and mollies. Advanced: Discus and other softwater fish normally require 80 to 130 ppm total dissolved solids (TDS) or 1 to 3 degrees GH and mixed freshwater fish normally require 160 to 230 ppm TDS or 3 to 6 degrees GH. Consult a book for the correct TDS (total dissolved solids) and GH for the type of fish you are keeping. This product alone is sufficient for soft water aquariums. If your fish require harder water, you should measure both TDS & GH, because GH only measures hardness ions such as calcium and magnesium and doesn’t measure monovalent ions; while TDS measure all ions in solution. This product will raise TDS more than it will raise GH and Flora Viv GH+ will raise GH more than it will raise TDS. When used together in desired proportions, both products allow for a wide range of parameters suitable for any freshwater or brackish aquarium. Do not greatly exceed the dosage recommended for the type of fish you are keeping. Caution: Keep out of reach of children. Not for human consumption. If ingested drink water, contact a poison control center. If in eyes flush with water.

[Charlyc11]

There are products out there that will increase kh and stabilize ph but they can be costly over time. Making your own concoction is much cheaper in the long run with the exact same results. https://www.amazon.com/Continuum-Aqu...01C5L5JX4?th=1

I been working with this product with my water right from the well and I did a couple of 50 gallon tests. Adding 1 gram per 10 gallon seem to bring my KH=2 and TDS 220 PH=7.50 Ish. Trying to see if it's repeatable and constant. So far so good.

[Charlyc11]

Wile I am in the subject of water I have been working on one of my 75 gallon tanks that's getting a constant .25 + of ammonia but not quite .5 on the API test Kit. This tank was perfectly cycled since last year with not a single issue and always a PH in the range of 6.89+ and now with all my water issue is at a 7.4. I am not saying this is part of my KH problem but when it rains it pours. I been adding Seachem Stability and some Prime to detoxify. I also switched to FritzZime Turbo Start to no avail. I also think adding the prime might delay getting the cycle back on track. So I also decided to check my ammonia with Fluval Nutrafin Master test kit. This kit is a bit more involved and has also a chart the shows when the ammonia is toxic based on PH. See chart below I am in the 1.2 range where if you check my pH of 7.4 is still on the green zone. I guess it's not good but not toxic but I will still strive for 0. I did add a few more fish since the cycle was stated but for a 75 gallon it should be OK and under stocked. I been feeding 3 times a day and cutting back to 2. The fish don't look stressed and eat good.

15 neon's
7 Rams
3 ABN's
3 Snails
I ordered some Tetra safe start Plus since FritzZime did nothing and it's expensive.
A7869_Manual_Map.jpg

[bluelagoon]

I have read someplace that Prime could effect the cycle because it will bind up oxygen after it runs out of ammonia. Also I think Prime can give false readings on water tests. I would just use the Seachem Stability.

[jeep]

I've also heard it could affect the cycle but it would have to be way overdosed. It can give false positives. The chemical compound still exists in the tank, it's just been detoxified. the same for heavy metals...

Just for the record, I use Prime at 1/2 dose. Always have...

[Charlyc11]

I've also heard it could affect the cycle but it would have to be way overdosed. It can give false positives. The chemical compound still exists in the tank, it's just been detoxified. the same for heavy metals...

Just for the record, I use Prime at 1/2 dose. Always have...

I always heard how safe it is for double dosing never 1/2 dose I will try that out. I guess it's still effective. Right now I am following the chemistry that's telling me that at my PH and temperature the amount of ammonia that I have is still safe and mostly non toxic. The fish seem in good health and tolerate these levels but I don't want this long term I need to get it to zero.
On another note I been working with the Continuum KH+ on my tap and it's been holding steady between 7.3 and 7.4 PH an a KH of 2 so I find that's the simplest way without RO. That said I have also making daily water changes due to the one Marlboro tank still not finished with the Hexa treatment and the other 75 G has the Ammonia issue. That will soon stop and go on a regular 2 times a week 50% scheduled water changes.

[jeep]

Please don't take my statement about Prime as a recommendation. I've never posted it before and I really shouldn't have mentioned it now because I don't want everyone to do it just because I say its ok. I actually started dosing 1/2 quite by accident. Everyone's water and circumstances are different and it just happens to work for me.

[Charlyc11]

Please don't take my statement about Prime as a recommendation. I've never posted it before and I really shouldn't have mentioned it now because I don't want everyone to do it just because I say its ok. I actually started dosing 1/2 quite by accident. Everyone's water and circumstances are different and it just happens to work for me.

Not taken as a recommendation and at the moment I am not using any at all as long as I can stay in the safe zone.

[LizStreithorst]

Chuck, do you think that a kH of 2 is high enough? I don't know a lot about this but I believe that you want a reading of 3 unless you are doing WC every day. I'll be happy if I'm mistaken.

[Charlyc11]

Chuck, do you think that a kH of 2 is high enough? I don't know a lot about this but I believe that you want a reading of 3 unless you are doing WC every day. I'll be happy if I'm mistaken.

For now I been doing daily 70% water changes but I have the crushed coral in the filters also. I will start adding a little more slowly I don't want to raise the PH to quick. I am at 7.4 and have some ammonia in the 75 G Ram tank (.25 or less after water change a little more before) so the higher the PH the more toxic it becomes.
I have Been adding bacteria trying for zero but not there yet. But yes I think 3 should be the minimum to keep it stable.

[jeep]

Chuck, do you think that a kH of 2 is high enough? I don't know a lot about this but I believe that you want a reading of 3 unless you are doing WC every day. I'll be happy if I'm mistaken.

I tend to agree. He's still experimenting but I think the goal should be a bit higher in the long term. I've been helping someone who recently experienced a bad ph crash and loss of biofiltration with a kh of 2. But, they were on vacation and someone else was taking care of things. No telling what else may have contributed...