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jozwikjp
12-09-2012, 12:15 PM
Reconstituting RODI water

Lately I have been using a mix of
20% Well very high iron and salt like 28 degrees of KH
80% RODI then I have been adding:
-Seachem Equilibrium And Flourish Trace.

Question: Is better to use well high iron and mineral water or water after the water softener (which has no iron and high even more salt)

I have read a lot of people using Ken RO right..
Anyone tried
Seachem Discus Buffer
Seachem Discus Trace
For though using RO right, do you also add additional discus trace minerals?

I am wondering if the discus are not getting all the minerals or if it is perhaps too much. The problem I am having is the discus are constantly fighting, or seem jumpy. I have reduced the US of CO2 and which raises the PH to 7, in an effort to mellow them out.
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate = (0,0, <5ppm)

TURQ64
12-09-2012, 03:04 PM
Iron isn't good at all for your fish....they are likely jumpy from changes in the water chemistry...fighting is normal for cichlids...

jozwikjp
12-26-2012, 04:55 PM
I think the theory that anything named brute on a trashcan is food safe. Specifically, the large square ones I was using. I tried the water stored in the large brute cans and it did not taste right at all :-(.
I switched to an 110gal stock tank from tractor supply; I think that may have been part of the problem. I also spot tested the TDS in my tanks, and they seemed a bit high so I am going to lay off the buffering for a while to get the tds around 300.

ozone
12-27-2012, 09:22 AM
Seachem Discus buffer lowers the ph, it is a phosphoric acid mixed with something else. I use it on a tank I have that I have been trying to breed cardinals in. It makes the tank glass grow algae as it is a phosphate. I highly recommend not using it as it will not affect you KH or GH just lower the ph. It is supposed to precipitate calcium too, not sure. As for the others I am not quite sure:)