The perfect canister combination. Which media do you use?

[rustybaker]

I'm sure there's a few threads out there already but I'm sure some new voices here can't hurt. What filter, tank size, amount of fish, and media configuration you are currently using and why?

I'm:
Rena Filstar xp3
72 Gallon
6 Discus/6 other small tank mates

Currently using:

bottom compartment: standard mechanical foam (bottom half)/ammonia reducer foam (top half)
Second compartment: charcoal foam (bottom)/seachem purigen pouch(top)
Top compartment: fluval peat pellets (bottom) /api bio stars (top)

Anyone see any issues here? I'm using the peat pellets to keep my PH consistent since my tap water is rather basic. I use them in my water change basin as well. The purigen is something new I'm trying as it's supposed to keep the water crystal clear, just added last night and no immediate changes.

[Trier20]

I think you're over thinking it. Bio balls and regular sponges in mine. Just lots of biomedia. WCs should keep your water clean. You can put a buffer pad in but that should be all you need. I would also add a pre filter to your set up too.

[ausuriello2nd]

Hi Trier, after reading Rusty's tread, I believe he has pretty much accomplished in having more than enough bio media in his filter and is well on his way of setting up a great biological filter for his discus tank. Not to offend you or anyone else for that matter. because we all don't use or have access to the exact bio media that someone else is using in their filters in setting up our biological filters like everyone else, doesn't mean its wrong or incorrect, as long as we use what is safe to be used in one's discus aquarium from the gecko...Thanks for both of you sharing...always appreciate reading new treads..Al..in Omaha

[Trier20]

Hi Trier, after reading Rusty's tread, I believe he has pretty much accomplished in having more than enough bio media in his filter and is well on his way of setting up a great biological filter for his discus tank. Not to offend you or anyone else for that matter. because we all don't use or have access to the exact bio media that someone else is using in their filters in setting up our biological filters like everyone else, doesn't mean its wrong or incorrect, as long as we use what is safe to be used in one's discus aquarium from the gecko...Thanks for both of you sharing...always appreciate reading new treads..Al..in Omaha

What I was trying to get at was he probably doesn't need the ammonia reducer pad, charcoal pad and peat. I have no experience with the ammonia reducing pads but I would have to think this would almost have to effect your cycle in a negative way. Then what happens when the pad wears out fails and there is a huge ammonia spike? I'm just trying to look at it at all angles. It may be perfect for you though just not for me.

[DerekFF]

I'm:
Rena Filstar xp3
72 Gallon
6 Discus/6 other small tank mates

Currently using:

bottom compartment: standard mechanical foam (bottom half)/ammonia reducer foam (top half)
Second compartment: charcoal foam (bottom)/seachem purigen pouch(top)
Top compartment: fluval peat pellets (bottom) /api bio stars (top)


The ammonia pads burn out so fast they really don't do anything other than just act as another piece of mechanical pad. I'm not sure what charcoal "foam" is. You mean carbon? Bio balls are fine but peat pellets are a waste of time as they take forever to work, need replacing and are 100% not needed. Domestic discus don't care at all about ph. Anything from 6.0-8.5 is normal and they'll never know the difference after they're in the tank




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[rustybaker]

Yea I meant to say carbon, not charcoal. I never thought about the ammonia pad burning out and causing a spike in PH, but this is a good point. It's a newer tank so I wanted to protect the fish in the early stages, even though it was cycled, but maybe I'll remove it next WC. The peat was a suggestion from my LFS guy as my tap water is a bit high in PH, but I keep hearing consistency is the key, o well, I have it now so might as well use it. I'll be using it in my wc basin as well so at least the parameters will be the same.

Thanks for the input.

[100fuegos]

From bottom to top :

1 - Volcanic lava rock (as a mechanic and bio media)
2 - Expanded clay pebbles (bio media only)
3 - Sintered glass balls (JBL Micromec (http://www.jbl.de/en/aquatics-freshwater-products/detail/2418/jbl-micromec) bio media only)
4 - More Sintered glass balls plus a medium coarse sponge as a prefilter before the pump.

I do use prefilters in my two intakes and before the filters there is a two chamber inline filter with a coarse mechanical media followed by a fine mechanical / BIO media.

Lots of bio media and just about the right ammount of mechanical media combined with pre filters on the intakes works best for me.

[Trier20]

Yea I meant to say carbon, not charcoal. I never thought about the ammonia pad burning out and causing a spike in PH, but this is a good point. It's a newer tank so I wanted to protect the fish in the early stages, even though it was cycled, but maybe I'll remove it next WC. The peat was a suggestion from my LFS guy as my tap water is a bit high in PH, but I keep hearing consistency is the key, o well, I have it now so might as well use it. I'll be using it in my wc basin as well so at least the parameters will be the same.

Thanks for the input.

The LFS is just selling a product you have to keep buying from them. When it comes down to it they have to meet a bottom line no matter how well you know them. My ph is off the chart on the API test kit and my fish do very well. As long as its consistant you shouldn't ha e problems.

[nc0gnet0]

All them specialized pads are a waste of money. They might come in handy for a specific situation that might pop up from time to time (ie removing meth blue with the carbon or dealing with an ammonia spike in a newly cycled tank) but are a waste of money to use on an everday basis. Throw a normal pad in each tray and then load up some good bio media on top of the pads (lava rock works very well)

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewitem.aspx?idproduct=EH2519051&child=EH2519751&utm_source=adwordsfroogle&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=adwordsfroogle&utm_content=EH2519751&gclid=CMK5s4LAg7UCFYw-Mgodxy8AHw

if your going to run the peat pellets your better off running it in a specialized filter such as a hot magnum or a hot 350. These will make your water a tea color (many ike this) and they do actually work. But, no use running the purigen in tandam with the peat, as the two will owrk against each other.

Rick

[rustybaker]

Rick, thanks for the advice here. Would you consider keeping the peat in my WC basin and purigen in the tank? Or is that still counter productive?

[GrayLadyPat]

One thing to consider, in light of the issues I have been having, call your water department. If they use Chlorine Dioxide to disinfect your drinking water, then you will need to have carbon.

I never used it until recently, because my water company started using this type of disinfection, so there are now other things in my water. If you use carbon, change it regularly according to your testing results. I have 2 Renas for my tank, and I am switching one carbon pack out every two weeks, making it about 30 days per package.

Just my two cents' worth

[nc0gnet0]

The peat releases tannins, which in turn color the water like tea. The purigen will then work to remove those tannins. if you don't want the tannins, don't use the peat. ;)

[rustybaker]

He actually didn't even have any in store. Told me to order them online