Best treatment for Ick

[Dave's Discus]

What is the best treatment from an ick outbreak due to heavy stress- removing gravel, changing background, new group of mixed strains.

Fish are eating. Parameters are good. Water changed daily. Are meds necessary?

[dash]

Seachem paraguard high temperature and daily water changes with vacuum of the tank.

[David Bishop]

Seachem paraguard high temperature and daily water changes with vacuum of the tank.

Is API Quick Cure safe. I've already purchased it and live about 2 hours from a seachem dealer. Any special instructions if it is safe?

[DiscusLoverJeff]

David, you will find that everything you need for fish can be purchased online. Many outlets now.

Kensfish
Drs Foster & Smith
Amazon.com

And, most of the time their prices are cheaper, free shipping and depending on your state, no tax.

[strawberryblonde]

Dave,

Your fish don't have ich unless something has changed in the last 48 hours. They had dots on their tails, which is perfectly normal when you use a net to move them and especially if they haven't had water changes every day.

If something HAS changed and you really believe that it's ich, please post a picture of the affected fish, ok? The last thing you want to do is to throw meds into your tank if they aren't necessary.

[pastry]

+1 what Toni said.

Plus, if you did have ich then (no disrepect to the others who offered help) ich is easy to get rid of with just raising the temperature to 90 for 72-96 hours (add extra aeration if needed; no meds needed at all). That's the only sickness with discus I feel comfortable offering advice on. Meanwhile, follow along what Toni said.

[Dave's Discus]

803488034980350

Toni,

Thanks for your interest. I will post some pics here. Sorry they are sideways. Couldn't turn them over.

As far as changes,

1. Yesterday I did a 50% water change and removed the air stones so the bottom would be completely
2. I also flushed my filters yesterday which had not been done in 6-8 months. On startup a bunch of (dead?) bacteria filled the tank floating around in clumps. I rinsed the bio pads in a bucket of tank water.
3. I had added carbon the previous day to remove melafix.
4. I turned off lights for one hour and let the filters remove the old bacteria.
5. This morning the top of the water looked like it had a film on it. I added two air stones
6. I use Omega One Veggie Pellet occasionally (every other day or so) to add vitamins. They don't seem to really like it, but they eat it.
7. Today I am switching from an am water change to pm water change schedule.

Thanks again,

Dave


Dave,

Your fish don't have ich unless something has changed in the last 48 hours. They had dots on their tails, which is perfectly normal when you use a net to move them and especially if they haven't had water changes every day.

If something HAS changed and you really believe that it's ich, please post a picture of the affected fish, ok? The last thing you want to do is to throw meds into your tank if they aren't necessary.

[Dave's Discus]

8035180352803538035480355More Pics


Dave,

Your fish don't have ich unless something has changed in the last 48 hours. They had dots on their tails, which is perfectly normal when you use a net to move them and especially if they haven't had water changes every day.

If something HAS changed and you really believe that it's ich, please post a picture of the affected fish, ok? The last thing you want to do is to throw meds into your tank if they aren't necessary.

[Dave's Discus]

A few more pics




Dave,

Your fish don't have ich unless something has changed in the last 48 hours. They had dots on their tails, which is perfectly normal when you use a net to move them and especially if they haven't had water changes every day.

If something HAS changed and you really believe that it's ich, please post a picture of the affected fish, ok? The last thing you want to do is to throw meds into your tank if they aren't necessary.

[Dave's Discus]

The spots I'm seeing look worse on the red leopard, blue pigeon, and silver pigeon.

The silver pigeon's color does not seem to be improving much w/bb and white bkgd. Spots also may be ich?

[YSS]

It does look like ich. What I do is just crank up the heat to 86 or higher and keep it there for several days. No salt or meds required.

[pastry]

Yep, crank it it up like YSS says. It's not just on the fins. I would actually say go on and go higher than the 86. In past experiences I'd go straight to 90 but if you're timid then try 88 for 3 days. See if there's a difference and if not then go to 90 for a few days. During WC's, try to match the water temp of the new water with the tank within a few degrees (I don't care as much about that when fish are healthy but when sick with ich I'd say you don't want to lose that continuous "artificial fever" that you need them to have).

[YSS]

You will need to keep the temp up until at least one full ich lifecycle has passed. Can't remember how many days that is.

[musicmarn1]

the peppering will still be there because of the stress and these guys do seem to think ick, i did have some peppering on the one kenny white pigeon, other one not so much and it was post shipping stress and my less than perfect acclimation and cleaning regime :) SO now im on it like 100% like you are doing ! (air stones are a +1 to me, that seems like a good thing to keep in, just brush em ) i have a couple plants, seems to reduce stress, they love things to hang around - structures of some sort. your driftwood piece would be fine and it helps stress, that IVE seen, others say it might add to peppering, but my peppering of my white pigeon is almost gone now but it took two months of clean bare bottom tank, couple of easy to clean structures, and lots of good feedings with the new larger group of discus.

basically when you get it RIGHT and two months or so later you will see less peppering :) while there is still stress you wont, its a good way of telling you something is wrong ! not the easiest fish these discus are they? but you seem totally committed which is ace !

[Dave's Discus]

Ok
Temp is already at 86. Their appetite and activity seems to be increasing after putting bubble wands back in and removing carbon. They all ate good at noon.



It does look like ich. What I do is just crank up the heat to 86 or higher and keep it there for several days. No salt or meds required.

[strawberryblonde]

When you up the temps be sure to add an extra air stone! Watch them for signs of oxygen deprivation and add a second one if needed. The heat treatment is a much safer option than meds for now.

Oh and Marnie is right...the peppering won't go away overnight, it will take a couple of months.

[Dave's Discus]

Sounds good. I'll go to 88 then 90 if need be. Can cardinals and coreys handle 88 and 90?


Yep, crank it it up like YSS says. It's not just on the fins. I would actually say go on and go higher than the 86. In past experiences I'd go straight to 90 but if you're timid then try 88 for 3 days. See if there's a difference and if not then go to 90 for a few days. During WC's, try to match the water temp of the new water with the tank within a few degrees (I don't care as much about that when fish are healthy but when sick with ich I'd say you don't want to lose that continuous "artificial fever" that you need them to have).

[pastry]

the cardinals and cory's should be able to tolerate it as well. not to sound cold but you could always get new ones for a lot cheaper than the discus BUT they'll be fine. like Toni just mentioned though, definitely add an extra airstone

[Dave's Discus]

Thanks Toni,

I've added two air stones and the film has disappeared from the surface. Did a wc and they are all very active.

I want to thank everyone who recommended the bb and white background. The colors of the fish are brighter and more visible.

How many days should the 88 to 90 degrees be kept up?



When you up the temps be sure to add an extra air stone! Watch them for signs of oxygen deprivation and add a second one if needed. The heat treatment is a much safer option than meds for now.

Oh and Marnie is right...the peppering won't go away overnight, it will take a couple of months.

[pastry]

72-96 hours usually worked for me. All signs may be gone after a few days but an extra 24 hours always helped me. Don't start the timer until the temp is met though. If you're fine with 90 then go to 90. If you're timid then go to 88 for 48 hours and if you see definitive improvement then keep it at 88 but otherwise go to 90 for a few days.

[Dave's Discus]

Thanks Music. Congrats on your new arrivals. They look awesome.

After today's wc the bottom is finally pristine. I also cleaned the lense covers on the lights for the first time and brightened things up considerably.

Did my first bb wc today without any decorations, 20% and couldn't believe how fast it went.

I have 8 discus, 12 cardinals and 3 cories. The Cardinals and Cories are claiming the bottom, scooping up the tiny pieces the discus spit out and miss. Looks like a good arrangement with just the right amount of food.


the peppering will still be there because of the stress and these guys do seem to think ick, i did have some peppering on the one kenny white pigeon, other one not so much and it was post shipping stress and my less than perfect acclimation and cleaning regime :) SO now im on it like 100% like you are doing ! (air stones are a +1 to me, that seems like a good thing to keep in, just brush em ) i have a couple plants, seems to reduce stress, they love things to hang around - structures of some sort. your driftwood piece would be fine and it helps stress, that IVE seen, others say it might add to peppering, but my peppering of my white pigeon is almost gone now but it took two months of clean bare bottom tank, couple of easy to clean structures, and lots of good feedings with the new larger group of discus.

basically when you get it RIGHT and two months or so later you will see less peppering :) while there is still stress you wont, its a good way of telling you something is wrong ! not the easiest fish these discus are they? but you seem totally committed which is ace !

[Dave's Discus]

If 90 is best, I'll aim for 90. It'll take a while to go from 86 up to 90. Two airstones, one on each side of the heater should spread the heat out.


72-96 hours usually worked for me. All signs may be gone after a few days but an extra 24 hours always helped me. Don't start the timer until the temp is met though. If you're fine with 90 then go to 90. If you're timid then go to 88 for 48 hours and if you see definitive improvement then keep it at 88 but otherwise go to 90 for a few days.

[Dave's Discus]

Just realized two air stones mounted at the bottom with airlines going straight up the bubbles hide the air line and disperse the heat. The only wire showing is top of the heater. This tank is in my living room, so I want it to look as nice as possible. For a bb tank w no decoratons it doesn't look bad.



When you up the temps be sure to add an extra air stone! Watch them for signs of oxygen deprivation and add a second one if needed. The heat treatment is a much safer option than meds for now.

Oh and Marnie is right...the peppering won't go away overnight, it will take a couple of months.

[450rdawg]

3 days isn't enough. 88-90 for 10-12 days will be good. IME.

[450rdawg]

Also very important to keep everything wiped down as much as possible and water changed.

[Dave's Discus]

Good point. I got in the habit if using a magfloat to clean the glass. Wiping with a cloth gets it much cleaner. Thanks.


Also very important to keep everything wiped down as much as possible and water changed.

[Dave's Discus]

How often do you wipe down the inside?


Good point. I got in the habit if using a magfloat to clean the glass. Wiping with a cloth gets it much cleaner. Thanks.

[450rdawg]

I do it every other day when I clean my sponge filters. You should probably be doing it daily for now. Make sure to get the bottom too. The air stones Toni mentioned are very important because the higher temps lower the oxygen saturation in the water.