Discus Turning Dark and Hovering in Corner not eating

[Falcon 900]

Problem

1. Please explain the problems with your fish. When did you notice the problems and did anything unusual happen that you think started them?

My Red Virgins that I won in the NADA raffle are not doing well. Last week I lost one to what I attributed to hitting the side of the tank. He had some abrasions and was not swimming well. I removed him from the tank and put him in quarantine where he didn't make it through the night. All the other fish were acting and eating normal. Yesterday, I was gone all day and when I came home, the other fish were looking stressed and didn't want to eat. I did a 100% water change and checked on them before going to bed. They seemed to be ok.

I woke up this morning to find 3 of the 5 fish dark and hanging in the corner of the of the tank. They also have injuries as if they had been darting in the tank. I did a quick check for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. All were normal. I did another 100% water change with a complete wipe down of the tank. I also took apart the filter (Aqua Clear 110) rinsed the sponge and media in tank water and thoroughly cleaned the filter housing.




2. Symptoms (i.e. turning dark, excess slime, not eating, clamped fins, flashing, darting, clamped gills, white/yellow/green poop, hiding, headstanding or tailstanding, white on tips of fins, rotting or fungus, blisters/white zits on fish, bloated, cloudy eyes, wounds).

Right now, two of the five fish seem to be doing better, one fish is hanging out in the corner of the tank on the bottom leaning up against the wall of the tank and his breathing seems to be labored. Two other fish are swimming rather lethargically with some headstanding. None of the fish will eat

All of the fish are darker than normal with three of the fish a lot darker than normal. All of the fish seem to be easily scared and will dart back and forth across the tank.


3. What medications/ treatments have you already tried and what were the results. Include dosage and duration of treatment.

No medications yet. Just 100% water change, lights off and raising water temp from 84 to 88 degrees with the tank lights off.


Tank/Water

4. Tank size and ages, numbers and sizes of fish.

55 gallon tank with 5 Virgin Reds. I've had the fish for a little over a month.


5. Water change regime (What percentage and how often).

50% daily with 100% every third day.

6. How long has tank been running? Is it bare bottom? If you have substrate, what type and how deep is it?

Tank has been up and running for 1 1/2 months.


7. Do you age your water? If you do for how long and what is the ph swing.

Water is aged for 24+ hours. Ph out of the tap is 7.4 - 7.6. After aging, Ph is 8.4

8. Parameters and water source;



Note: Water Parameters are important in diagnosing problems within a tank. If you don't own test kits for the following information, you can purchase them, test your parameters and post this info as soon as possible.


- temp __84 degrees___

- ph __8.4 - 8.6___

- ammonia reading __0__

- nitrite reading __0__

- nitrate reading __< 5.0__

What type of water or combinations of water sources do you use? If it is an RO/tap/well water mix, please list percentages in the mix.

- well water ____

- municipal water _100%___

- RO water ____


9. Any new fish, plants or inverts added recently.

None

10. Include any pictures or videos you have which shows the symptoms. If you can't add them to this post, please provide a link to them.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dRMuEIZFUM

[Falcon 900]

Here is another video taken with the tank lights off.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWJsP73sHRk

[Rudra]

@ work and cant see the video, but based on the desc and that the tank is running for only 1-5 months.
1. Check the NH3/Nitrites/Nitrates again. Is the test kit too old? If you rinsed the filter - did you use tank water to not kill the bacteria?
2. If you are raising the temp, maybe add a airstone to increase oxygen..

and based on my limited exp, 1.5 months is not sufficient time for them to settle down, so darting back and forth is normal - esp; if they have shadows cast on them and/or the tank light is too bright and the room dark. Do they come and eat from hand . for instance when offered? or do they hide when u approach? (before this incident)

[rdiscus]

Look like they're scared and hit something the tank. I would turn off tank light, even your room light or cover your tank ... they need to rest, and don't worry about feeding them

[Falcon 900]

@ work and cant see the video, but based on the desc and that the tank is running for only 1-5 months.

I set the tank up using established media from another tank that has been up and running for over a year.
1. Check the NH3/Nitrites/Nitrates again. Is the test kit too old? If you rinsed the filter - did you use tank water to not kill the bacteria?

Test kit is relatively new and within date. I test the water 2 - 3 times per week. Always rinse the filter media in tank water.

2. If you are raising the temp, maybe add a airstone to increase oxygen..

I run air to all my tanks, I have the air turned up in this tank right now.

and based on my limited exp, 1.5 months is not sufficient time for them to settle down, so darting back and forth is normal - esp; if they have shadows cast on them and/or the tank light is too bright and the room dark. Do they come and eat from hand . for instance when offered? or do they hide when u approach? (before this incident)

These fish have been happy and healthy eating like pigs up until just yesterday. They always come right up to the front and take food right from my hand. They're usually so aggressive that they occasionally will bite me!
The hiding and darting just started.

[Rudra]

//These fish have been happy and healthy eating like pigs up until just yesterday. They always come right up to the front and take food right from my hand. They're usually so aggressive that they occasionally will bite me!
The hiding and darting just started.//

could be a bug then? raise temp, run airstone, reduce light in tank ...

were they QT'd with some medicine when bot in?

[Madaboutdiscus]

Are yo I sure the tank the filter media came from is disease free? Diseases can be transferred easily this way.

-Victoria

[Falcon 900]

Are yo I sure the tank the filter media came from is disease free? Diseases can be transferred easily this way.

-Victoria

The media came from my display tank and the fish have not shown any signs of illness or problems in that tank.

[Madaboutdiscus]

Ok good. Just wondering. Hopefully they are just adjusting. How big did you say they are

-Victoria

[Falcon 900]

Ok good. Just wondering. Hopefully they are just adjusting. How big did you say they are

-Victoria

3.5" - 4"

[Rudra]

The media came from my display tank and the fish have not shown any signs of illness or problems in that tank.

Some discus are just carriers, and mixing discus / tank media - is a definite way to spread it...

[John_Nicholson]

With your water change routine your water should be fine. I am assuming that you own other discus. My guess is they have either caught something that your other fish are carries of or the new fish were carriers of something that the stress of shipping brought out. My guess is they have caught something from your existing fish. I am not big on medicating fish. I would suggest that you keep the tank as clean as possible and see what happens. More fish are killed by well meaning people throwing meds at them than from the illness. With disease transmission think about when the Europeans first "discovered" America.....Indians started dropping like flies from "routine" illnesses that their immune systems had never seen.

-john

[Madaboutdiscus]

With your water change routine your water should be fine. I am assuming that you own other discus. My guess is they have either caught something that your other fish are carries of or the new fish were carriers of something that the stress of shipping brought out. My guess is they have caught something from your existing fish. I am not big on medicating fish. I would suggest that you keep the tank as clean as possible and see what happens. More fish are killed by well meaning people throwing meds at them than from the illness. With disease transmission think about when the Europeans first "discovered" America.....Indians started dropping like flies from "routine" illnesses that their immune systems had never seen.

-john

+1 agree 100%

-Victoria

[nc0gnet0]

If I might add, I have seen a lot of well intentioned, however ill advised recomendations to increase tank temperature at the onset of any disease. People, this is not good advise, and unless you know what the problem is, can actually make the problem worse, so please stop. Yes there are situations in which elevated tank temperatures can help, however, in most cases it is counterproductive and adds to the stress of the fish.

Can I request that the OP take a picture of the whole tank? Drop temp back down to 83ish, dim the lights and maintain water quality.

[John_Nicholson]

Can I say Yes.......Well stated.


If I might add, I have seen a lot of well intentioned, however ill advised recomendations to increase tank temperature at the onset of any disease. People, this is not good advise, and unless you know what the problem is can make the problem worse, so please stop. Yes there are situation in which elevated tank temperatures can help, however, in most cases it is counterproductive and adds to the stress of the fish.

Can I request that the OP take a picture of the whole tank? Drop temp back down to 83ish, dim the lights and maintain water quality.

[ktltn04]

If I might add, I have seen a lot of well intentioned, however ill advised recomendations to increase tank temperature at the onset of any disease. People, this is not good advise, and unless you know what the problem is can make the problem worse, so please stop. Yes there are situations in which elevated tank temperatures can help, however, in most cases it is counterproductive and adds to the stress of the fish.

Can I request that the OP take a picture of the whole tank? Drop temp back down to 83ish, dim the lights and maintain water quality.

+1 fish Doctor :)

[Allwin]

Just adding few more points..

Do u have any other tanks and different fishes?

whether the same cleaning hoses,nets etc are shared between different tanks?

[Falcon 900]

If I might add, I have seen a lot of well intentioned, however ill advised recomendations to increase tank temperature at the onset of any disease. People, this is not good advise, and unless you know what the problem is can make the problem worse, so please stop. Yes there are situations in which elevated tank temperatures can help, however, in most cases it is counterproductive and adds to the stress of the fish.

Can I request that the OP take a picture of the whole tank? Drop temp back down to 83ish, dim the lights and maintain water quality.

Rick,

Thanks for chiming in! Here is a picture of the whole tank. Right after I took the picture, I noticed that one of the fish has died (bottom right) :cry:. The 4 remaining fish look to be doing a little better but still looking quite stressed!

As requested, I have reset the heater to 83 - 84 degrees and turned the lights back off.

http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae286/markboese/fishtank.jpg

[Allwin]

Missed this point, very well each fish groups have their own immune system..


The media came from my display tank and the fish have not shown any signs of illness or problems in that tank.

[Falcon 900]

Just adding few more points..

Do u have any other tanks and different fishes?

whether the same cleaning hoses,nets etc are shared between different tanks?

I have a 75 gallon with a 25 gallon sump that has 5 Stendkers from Josie at Chicago Discus and a small 29 gallon tank with Blue Rams.

These discus were from the NADA raffle in August. I have been keeping them in quarantine since I got them in September.

[dkeef]

may i ask when u treat for Hex with metro, would u advise to increase temp to 88-90 for a week or so of treatment period?



If I might add, I have seen a lot of well intentioned, however ill advised recomendations to increase tank temperature at the onset of any disease. People, this is not good advise, and unless you know what the problem is can make the problem worse, so please stop. Yes there are situations in which elevated tank temperatures can help, however, in most cases it is counterproductive and adds to the stress of the fish.

Can I request that the OP take a picture of the whole tank? Drop temp back down to 83ish, dim the lights and maintain water quality.

[Allwin]

IMO, increasing the temperature can multiply the growth of any bacteria, both beneficial and bad ones. So, if I doubt it is bacterial infection, I would rather sterilize the complete setup and start with 5-days nitrifying bacteria steps. For sure, its a stress to the fish and cloudy water. More frequent WC will reduce the stress and eventually nitrifying bacteria will multiply.. Temp around 84deg,test water every day to avoid the ammonia spike.. But, just wait for expert advice on treatments.

[nc0gnet0]

I have a 75 gallon with a 25 gallon sump that has 5 Stendkers from Josie at Chicago Discus and a small 29 gallon tank with Blue Rams.

These discus were from the NADA raffle in August. I have been keeping them in quarantine since I got them in September.

And these 5 stendkers are the only other fish you have, discus wise? Can I ask what you feed? Tank looks spottless, at least we know it isn't a wq issue due to lack of water changes. Try placing some carboard under the light to block out all but maybe 1/4 of it. This won't cure the problem but will decrease thier stress while we figure out whats going on.

-Rick


may i ask when u treat for Hex with metro, would u advise to increase temp to 88-90 for a week or so of treatment period?

No thread jacking please, happy to answer your question, but start another thread.

[Falcon 900]

And these 5 stendkers are the only other fish you have, discus wise? Can I ask what you feed? Tank looks spottless, at least we know it isn't a wq issue due to lack of water changes. Try placing some carboard under the light to block out all but maybe 1/4 of it. This won't cure the problem but will decrease thier stress while we figure out whats going on.

-Rick



No thread jacking please, happy to answer your question, but start another thread.

Yes, the 5 stendkers are the only other discus that I have. I feed the fish 3 times a day, Cobalt discus flakes in the morning, Sera discus granules in the afternoon and Al's FBW in the evening. Occasionally, they get frozen blood worms as a treat.

[nc0gnet0]

Is the tank in a high traffic area? Has it been moved lately, or has something that might spook the fish been moved nearer the tank? Any new lighting, perhaps you set the air pump on top of the tank causing vibrations, a new hob....anything?


-Rick

[troysdiiscus]

I have a question, I aplogize if I missed it, but you said you got the media from your display tank? What is in your display tank if the only discus you have are from Josie?

[Falcon 900]

I have a question, I aplogize if I missed it, but you said you got the media from your display tank? What is in your display tank if the only discus you have are from Josie?

Yes, only the discus from Josie.

[troysdiiscus]

ok what is in your display tank from where you got the media out of?
Yes, only the discus from Josie.

[Falcon 900]

Is the tank in a high traffic area? Has it been moved lately, or has something that might spook the fish been moved nearer the tank? Any new lighting, perhaps you set the air pump on top of the tank causing vibrations, a new hob....anything?


-Rick

The tank is in the basement and in a low traffic area. Nothing new or changed with the tank and it hasn't been moved. These fish have been really low maintenance since I got them until now. Always at the front of the tank when anyone approaches the tank, always looking for their next meal. They usually attack my hand when I feed them and they let me handle them when I clean the tank.

[Falcon 900]

ok what is in your display tank from where you got the media out of?

Fish, heaters, air stones and water. I've kept it bare bottom for now.

[nc0gnet0]

Any chance any household cleaners might have gotten into the tank? When do you most notice the darting behaviour?


-Rick

[Madaboutdiscus]

Fish, heaters, air stones and water. I've kept it bare bottom for now.

I think they meant what kind of fish to you have in your display tank?

-Victoria

[Falcon 900]

Any chance any household cleaners might have gotten into the tank? When do you most notice the darting behaviour?


-Rick

There is always the chance, but nobody has been in the basement around the fish but me. The darting is sporadic and sometimes the slightest movement around the tank will set them off.

[Second Hand Pat]

You know how to check the water for an electric charge?

[nc0gnet0]

You know how to check the water for an electric charge?

one hand in the tank and make sure your grounded?

[nc0gnet0]

have you reduced the light intensitiy into the tank?

[nc0gnet0]

Were the fish just recently introduced into this tank? It looks almost too clean?

[Falcon 900]

Were th fish just recently introduced into this tank? It looks almost too clean?

I set the tank up in early September right after I found out that I won the fish in the NADA raffle. They are the only fish that have been in the tank. I vacuum the tank daily and wipe down the inside every couple of days.

[nc0gnet0]

Continue to monitor with low light and plenty of fresh water. They do look a bit thin, are they still eating well and how does their feces look? If you don't see improvement in the next couple of days, or they take a turn for the worse, it might be time to medicate.

[John_Nicholson]

This is a weird one. Most of the threads about problem you can see where people are doing something wrong but in your case you seem to be doing everything right, Rick is normally the best at figuring these out.

Good luck.

-john

[Falcon 900]

Continue to monitor with low light and plenty of fresh water. They do look a bit thin, are they still eating well and how does their feces look? If you don't see improvement in the next couple of days, or they take a turn for the worse, it might be time to medicate.

Got up this morning and checked on them and they are showing some signs of improvement. I'm doing a water change right now. Two of the fish didn't like having the tank drained very much. When I do a lager water change, I drain the tank down to 2" - 3" inches (sometimes lower) and the fish normally just swim on their side and wait for the fresh water. Then they play in the fresh water stream. When I drained the tank today, the two fish that are worse off, were flopping around like there was no water in the tank. They all calmed down as soon as I started adding fresh water. Now that the tank is full, they're just lazily hanging out in the corner but not huddled up.

I put a cube of FDBW on the side of the tank after finishing the water change and they show no interest. Normally, they come right up to the front of the tank and attack my hand as soon as it goes in the water with any food. They were eating well right up until I noticed that something wasn't right!

What is it with water changes that make these fish crap? It's like giving them an enema!!! As soon as I started to drain the tank there was fresh feces to clean up, all dark and solid.

Interesting that you think they are on the thin side. While they have been eating quite well, I was beginning to to question why I wasn't getting a more even growth (size wise). One fish has been growing rather nicely and the others were coming along, their growth rate just hasn't been as fast or as even as the Stendkers that I got from Josie.

[Falcon 900]

This is a weird one. Most of the threads about problem you can see where people are doing something wrong but in your case you seem to be doing everything right, Rick is normally the best at figuring these out.

Good luck.

-john

Thanks, I use to keep several aquariums up to about 10 years ago. I got out of the hobby when I moved for a job change. I kept mostly Cichlids and had a small tank with Discus. Back then, the only way for me to get Discus was from the LFS. I had no idea what I was doing but I managed to keep them alive.

I broke my arm a little over a year ago and couldn't work. So with too much time on my hands I started thinking about getting another aquarium and started doing research on Discus and found Simply. I read through a lot of the info that is here a put it to use.

[nc0gnet0]

Do me a favor and test both your tank water and your tap water just prior to your next water change. Not only test your aged water for ph, but ammonia, and nitrites as well.

What water conditioner are you using? SAFE, Prime, or some other.

[Falcon 900]

Do me a favor and test both your tank water and your tap water just prior to your next water change. Not only test your aged water for ph, but ammonia, and nitrites as well.

What water conditioner are you using? SAFE, Prime, or some other.

OK, I can test the aged water later tonight as I did a water change this morning. I use Prime.

Lost another fish this afternoon. This one got out of the tank in the gap between the glass top and the filter and ended up on top of the glass top. It happened while I was out of the house for a few hours. Not sure how he did that, there's only about 3/4' gap!

[Chicago Discus]

Change the heater and keep the lights off

[Falcon 900]

Change the heater and keep the lights off

Josie, why do you say change the heater?

[Chicago Discus]

Josie, why do you say change the heater?

That twitching in the video makes me think something is wrong with the heater if first the water is ruled out. (This is going to get me trouble) I also think that your changing to much water I would stop the 100% water changes. I would keep the lights off and use a towel over the tank top to eliminate any shadows.

[Falcon 900]

That twitching in the video makes me think something is wrong with the heater if first the water is ruled out. (This is going to get me trouble) I also think that your changing to much water I would stop the 100% water changes. I would keep the lights off and use a towel over the tank top to eliminate any shadows.

Ok, I can change the heater easy enough, I have a couple of spares for emergencies.

What would you recommend that I cut my water changes back to?

[nc0gnet0]

Dont change the amount you change to drastically, stay at about 60%. Josie thinks it may be stray electical current from a bad heater, or even your hob, I don't think thats it, but doesn't hurt to check. With all these massive water changes your doing, your still able to age your change water 24 hours? What is your water change regimin on the non effected tank?



-Rick

[Falcon 900]

Dont change the amount you change to drastically, stay at about 60%. Josie thinks it may be stray electical current from a bad heater, or even your hob, I don't think thats it, but doesn't hurt to check. With all these massive water changes your doing, your still able to age your change water 24 hours? What is your water change regimin on the non effected tank?



-Rick

I have 3 44 gallon Brute garbage cans with water going all the time. Along with an airstone in each barrel, I have a power head in each barrel to circulate the water and the Ph usually stabilizes in less than 24 hours.

On my 75 gallon tank I do a 50 to 75 % water change every 2 -3 days. It's a 75 gallon tank with a 30 gallon sump. The fish are all adults at around 6"+

[nc0gnet0]

Your water change routine before the onset of the symptoms was what?

[Falcon 900]

Your water change routine before the onset of the symptoms was what?

On the tank in question, 50% daily with 100% every third day.

[nc0gnet0]

Did you fist notice the symptoms after a 100% change?

[Falcon 900]

Do me a favor and test both your tank water and your tap water just prior to your next water change. Not only test your aged water for ph, but ammonia, and nitrites as well.

What water conditioner are you using? SAFE, Prime, or some other.

Tested the aged water. The water has been aging the last 12 - 13 hours. Ph is 8.4 -8.6 and the same as in the tank, Ammonia is 0 ppm, Nitrites are 0 ppm and Nitrates look like they're between 0 and 5 ppm.

http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae286/markboese/watertest.jpg

[nc0gnet0]

ok, need you to test the tank water just before you do a water change please.

[Falcon 900]

ok, need you to test the tank water just before you do a water change please.

I will try to do that it the morning before I go to work.

[nc0gnet0]

I really want a test when the water is the oldest, just prior to a water change. This is a step by step process of elimination here, before we move on to other things. 99% of the time, issues like your having can be attributed to something not right with the water. As john mentioned, it appears your doing everything right, yet still having issues. It's a bit baffling, and diagnosis has to be systematic. We need now to be 100% sure your tank is not having a mini-cycle. Most likely it isn't, but need to check all the obvious things off the list before we move on to the less obvious ones.


-Rick

btw I live an hour from you

[Chicago Discus]

Tested the aged water. The water has been aging the last 12 - 13 hours. Ph is 8.4 -8.6 and the same as in the tank, Ammonia is 0 ppm, Nitrites are 0 ppm and Nitrates look like they're between 0 and 5 ppm.

http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae286/markboese/watertest.jpg


I doesn't get better than that, if you changed the heater and have no improvement I'm not sure than never seen that before it's very strange behavior. I would contact the person you got the fish from and get some background maybe that would help.....Josie

[Falcon 900]

I really want a test when the water is the oldest, just prior to a water change. This is a step by step process of elimination here, before we move on to other things. 99% of the time, issues like your having can be attributed to something not right with the water. As john mentioned, it appears your doing everything right, yet still having issues. It's a bit baffling, and diagnosis has to be systematic. We need now to be 100% sure your tank is not having a mini-cycle. Most likely it isn't, but need to check all the obvious things off the list before we move on to the less obvious ones.


-Rick

btw I live an hour from you

OK, if I don't get to do the water change in the morning before I go to work, it will be tomorrow night sometime as I wont get home until around 9pm.

[rcomeau]

(55 gallon tank). How much Prime were you dosing the water for 50% daily changes and how much for the 100% changes every third day?

What is the PH of the water directly out of the tap? PH at 8.4 after aging is high and ammonia is more toxic at higher levels. I'm also curious if the test shows ammonia in the tank just before a water change.

[jmjackson]

First off I am so sorry about the fish you lost. I was the other winner of the same nada raffle. I just took my fish out of the quarantine tank last weekend. I have two or three that are lighter but the others have been dark since they arrived. After watching the video, my question is were all your fish lighter from the beginning and then became darker?

[Falcon 900]

I really want a test when the water is the oldest, just prior to a water change. This is a step by step process of elimination here, before we move on to other things. 99% of the time, issues like your having can be attributed to something not right with the water. As john mentioned, it appears your doing everything right, yet still having issues. It's a bit baffling, and diagnosis has to be systematic. We need now to be 100% sure your tank is not having a mini-cycle. Most likely it isn't, but need to check all the obvious things off the list before we move on to the less obvious ones.


-Rick

btw I live an hour from you

Just got home a little while ago, came home to another dead fish. I'm not overly surprised as that fish wasn't looking good this morning when I left for work. Doing a water change right now.

I tested the water and the results are Ph 8.4, ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrites 0 ppm and nitrates 5 ppm.

[Falcon 900]

First off I am so sorry about the fish you lost. I was the other winner of the same nada raffle. I just took my fish out of the quarantine tank last weekend. I have two or three that are lighter but the others have been dark since they arrived. After watching the video, my question is were all your fish lighter from the beginning and then became darker?

Thanks. 4 of the 6 fish had a nice red shade to them. Not overly dark but nice and even coloring throughout the fish, one was a pale red and the other had only some red patches.

[Falcon 900]

(55 gallon tank). How much Prime were you dosing the water for 50% daily changes and how much for the 100% changes every third day?

What is the PH of the water directly out of the tap? PH at 8.4 after aging is high and ammonia is more toxic at higher levels. I'm also curious if the test shows ammonia in the tank just before a water change.

Ph out of the tap is around 7.2 - 7.4. I prime the tank based on 55 gallons and add the prime directly to the tank as I'm adding back the water. Ammonia is 0 ppm.

[nc0gnet0]

ARe you down to three or four fish now? How do they look?

-Rick

[Falcon 900]

ARe you down to three or four fish now? How do they look?

-Rick

2 fish! They're swimming but still skittish and not interested in food. Their color looks normal, but these two never got real dark and their fins are not clamped.

[nc0gnet0]

I would like to try something way out of the oridinary. I would like to offer you 4 test fish, two non pb's and two pb's. I would like you to place them directly in the tank with your fish. This is for the sole purpose of seeing if whatever your fish has is contagious. If it is, and the test fish develope symptoms, then I will send two of them to the Univeristy of Florida for diagnosis. If they don'tn develope symptoms, then it points to an outside toxin as the cause of your issues. I am very sorry for you loss. In the interim, I would like you to add salt to the tank. The purpose of the salt is to try to calm the fish a bit (not a cure) and buy us some time. 5 tablespoons should suffice.

-Rick

[Falcon 900]

I would like to try something way out of the oridinary. I would like to offer you 4 test fish, two non pb's and two pb's. I would like you to place them directly in the tank with your fish. This is for the sole purpose of seeing if whatever your fish has is contagious. If it is, and the test fish develope symptoms, then I will send two of them to the Univeristy of Florida for diagnosis. If they don'tn develope symptoms, then it points to an outside toxin as the cause of your issues. I am very sorry for you loss. In the interim, I would like you to add salt to the tank. The purpose of the salt is to try to calm the fish a bit (not a cure) and buy us some time. 5 tablespoons should suffice.

-Rick

PM inbound!

[DiscusLoverJeff]

What ever happened to the discus in this thread Falcon? I find it a very interesting thread but with no conclusion.