For those running breeding tanks with central sump. Need help

[MKD]

I'm running individual breeding tanks right now because I may don't want to breed all pairs at once or don't have enough pairs. Plus, I want to have an option to spend time for family. As most of you know know I'm almost done with my 300 g tank, still need move fish around. I'm also rearranging and improving my set up. Things are bouncing in my head connecting to central sump or not. I have couple questions, so I need your helps

If I connect 3 breeding tanks to central filter and I breed only 1 or 2 pairs:

1- I still have to do wc for all 3 tanks. Any other options?

2- How do you cover fry to tap water if 2 batches hatch different time?

3- best mixed water station

Thank you in advance

Tony

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[pcsb23]

Tony, when I was doing this I had the capability to isolate any single tank. This allowed a lot of flexibility, but did mean running a sponge filter in each tank, as well as having a few extra heaters on hand (but you should have those anyway ;)).

It made water changes generally much easier and also gives a higher volume of water and the added benefit of greater stability.

So taking your questions ...


1- I still have to do wc for all 3 tanks. Any other options?
Each tank should have the capability to be isolated, I had valves on the input side and the outflow pipes could be closed also. During a w/c I'd switch the pump off, wipe down the tanks and then syphon out the crud from each, If necessary I'd just drain more from one or more tanks tank if I wanted to change a greater volume of water. Refilling was easy, the freshwater went straight into the sump and I just turned the pump back on and if I'd closed any valve, re-open them.


2- How do you cover fry to tap water if 2 batches hatch different time?
Simple, the tanks would be isolated so just as you would in a stand alone tank - it never took long for me as my "standard" water wasn't too much harder than breeding water


3- best mixed water station
Not sure what you are asking here ... sorry.

[MKD]

Thank Paul. My 3rd question is I want to mix ro and tap in 55 barrel ready for wc. I read ppl recommend fill up 80% ro then 20% tap. I'm looking for other ways.

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[Second Hand Pat]

Tony, it depends on your hardness or GH.

[MKD]

[QUOTE=pcsb23;1101812]Tony, when I was doing this I had the capability to isolate any single tank. This allowed a lot of flexibility, but did mean running a sponge filter in each tank, as well as having a few extra heaters on hand (but you should have those anyway ;)).

It made water changes generally much easier and also gives a higher volume of water and the added benefit of greater stability.

So taking your questions ...

Each tank should have the capability to be isolated, I had valves on the input side and the outflow pipes could be closed also. During a w/c I'd switch the pump off, wipe down the tanks and then syphon out the crud from each, If necessary I'd just drain more from one or more tanks tank if I wanted to change a greater volume of water. Refilling was easy, the freshwater went straight into the sump and I just turned the pump back on and if I'd closed any valve, re-open them.

Simple, the tanks would be isolated so just as you would in a stand alone tank - it never took long for me as my "standard" water wasn't too much harder than breeding water[\quote]

Good thing , when I set up I did all plumbing already and I even have quick drain in front.

Thank you
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[MKD]

My tap is very hard 490tds

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[Second Hand Pat]

Tony, what is your GH?

[MKD]

I think it s 1-2 gh
Thanks Pat

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[nc0gnet0]

Tony, what is your GH?

Don't you mean Kh?

[pcsb23]

Thank Paul. My 3rd question is I want to mix ro and tap in 55 barrel ready for wc. I read ppl recommend fill up 80% ro then 20% tap. I'm looking for other ways.

««««««««««« please excuse smart phone poster error »»»»»»»»»»Decide what TDS you want to aim for, work out how remin you need to get there and that's it. When I use RO I don't use tap to remin, I use remin salts. But the principle is the same, work out how much tap to ro you need to add to get to a target TDS ... Sounds like you may be over thinking it or looing for absolutes :)

[Second Hand Pat]

Tony, I target about 4 dGH which is about 70 ppm and tend to not worry about ph to much. If your GH is that soft seems like you would not need to mess with RO. I would be curious as to what is making the TDS that high.

[Second Hand Pat]

Don't you mean Kh?

Rick, I meant GH. However my GH and KH tend to be the same. I target a GH of about 4dGh when I mix tap and RO.

[MKD]

Decide what TDS you want to aim for, work out how remin you need to get there and that's it. When I use RO I don't use tap to remin, I use remin salts. But the principle is the same, work out how much tap to ro you need to add to get to a target TDS ... Sounds like you may be over thinking it or looing for absolutes :)

Kh - 0 (in case you needed.)

I know ppl term me I over think a lot. that's why things bouncing in my head LOL

Thank you Rick



Tony, I target about 4 dGH which is about 70 ppm and tend to not worry about ph to much. If your GH is that soft seems like you would not need to mess with RO. I would be curious as to what is making the TDS that high.
That I don't know. i looked at city report & it said 490. But my Hanna tds tester show higher.


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[nc0gnet0]

Rick, I meant GH. However my GH and KH tend to be the same. I target a GH of about 4dGh when I mix tap and RO.

yes and no, not if one happens to have a water softener which will impact GH and not touch Kh, If Gh was the only concern, for those of us with liquid rock for water, we could all run water softeners and not RO units.

At least this is my understanding.

for instance my Tap is >20 dGh and >20 dKh. After the water softener if is next to 0 dgh but still over 20 dKh.

[alcastro]

Tony my is set up just like Paul's , turn a valve off isolate a tank sponge in every one spare heaters, I also have 55 gallon barrel 80 to 90% R/O to tap just bring tds to 100 ph stays about the same no helps keep the fungus away.


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[yim11]

Must be a popular setup, I've been running the same for years - 3 tanks, on a sump, sponges, backup heaters as needed for isolated tanks, I mix the tap and RO as I refill (not together in a barrel).

[nc0gnet0]

In other words, when you have the breeding tanks on a central system, when you have eggs (or preferable before) you take the tank of the central system, isolating it and run just the sponge filter. You can however still drain the tank the same way, but depending on how your plumbed and what you water requirements are, you will need to fill the tank with low tds water. A period of time after attachment, you can then put the tank back on the system.

Curious to know when those with central systems do that?

-Rick

[MKD]

Tony my is set up just like Paul's , turn a valve off isolate a tank sponge in every one spare heaters, I also have 55 gallon barrel 80 to 90% R/O to tap just bring tds to 100 ph stays about the same no helps keep the fungus away.


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Thanks Al. I want to know other options out there.



Must be a popular setup, I've been running the same for years - 3 tanks, on a sump, sponges, backup heaters as needed for isolated tanks, I mix the tap and RO as I refill (not together in a barrel).
Jim, no special setup. Im not a full time breeder, just fun and I was afraid of cross contamination.
How do you mix your water?



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[nc0gnet0]

Rick, I meant GH. However my GH and KH tend to be the same. I target a GH of about 4dGh when I mix tap and RO.

If I understand this correctly when you lower your GH your saying that your KH lowers at the same rate (or close to it). That stands to reason if your using RO to accomplish this,, but in my understanding (someone correct me if I am wrong) it is the carbonate hardness (aka KH) that ultimately leads to egg calcification, not gh.

The main reason I bring this up is because there are ways to lower your GH (aka water softener) that has no impact on KH.

[Second Hand Pat]

Rick, I use RO to lower my GH which lower the KH also. However I do not have a water softener. These are good points you make since everyone's water is different and if other water system are in the mix those have to be considered.

My original point I was trying to make is if you use a ratio of RO to tap everyone's percentages will usually be different depending on your target water parameters and water makeup.

[nc0gnet0]

Rick, I use RO to lower my GH which lower the KH also. However I do not have a water softener. These are good points you make since everyone's water is different and if other water system are in the mix those have to be considered.

My original point I was trying to make is if you use a ratio of RO to tap everyone's percentages will usually be different depending on your target water parameters and water makeup.

I understand Pat, not trying to pick on you, but pointing out that it is actually KH that is the enemy (or a combination of both), that's all :)

[Second Hand Pat]

Understand Rick, I can see why KH can be an issue and thank you to bring it up. I just have not run into that with my wilds breeding.

[MKD]

Here is set up. Tanks drilled 2 holes in the back 1 in 1 out for central sump. 1 drilled hole in front for quick water change and when it stands alone. Heater and sponge filter in each tank.

Finally, i got 3 tanks connect to sump. Currently have 2 occupied tanks and they both isolated because they are about laying eggs. So there is only 1empty tank connect to sump.

80gallon tank collecting RO.

Just making sure I'm missing anything else.