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View Full Version : Discus turning from dark to light colors, white/damaged eye, won't eat - but swims OK



GTOAviator
08-11-2014, 03:30 PM
Problem

1. Please explain the problems with your fish. When did you notice the problems and did anything unusual happen that you think started them?
Brand new tank (details below) with discus bought 3 days ago from LFS. This morning (day 3) I turned the lights on to notice one discus entirely dark, almost black, and something weird with his right eye lens - almost looks "cracked" and slightly cloudy.


2. Symptoms (i.e. turning dark, excess slime, not eating, clamped fins, flashing, darting, clamped gills, white/yellow/green poop, hiding, headstanding or tailstanding, white on tips of fins, rotting or fungus, blisters/white zits on fish, bloated, cloudy eyes, wounds).
Turning dark whenever against certain plants or substrate - almost chameleon like. Wouldn't bother me except none of the other discus are doing it. Swims normal but doesn't seem to be eating with the rest (although he attempts to dart for food, he doesn't actually eat it). Right cloudy eye, almost looks cracked this morning. Noticed the cloudy eye yesterday but it's gotten worse over night.

3. What medications/ treatments have you already tried and what were the results. Include dosage and duration of treatment.
Nothing - not even a water change yet. I don't want to shock the fish as every one else seems to be happy as can be and eat like lions.



Tank/Water

4. Tank size and ages, numbers and sizes of fish.
55 Gallon, has been up and running (fully cycled) for 11 days.
6 small starbai corys and 1 small pleco - introduced the same day as the discus.


5. Water change regime (What percentage and how often).
N/A (although I plan to do water changes 2x a week - at least until this fish gets better


6. How long has tank been running? Is it bare bottom? If you have substrate, what type and how deep is it?
11 days. Small/medium sized rock substrate. 3-5 inches deep


7. Do you age your water? If you do for how long and what is the ph swing.
No.


8. Parameters and water source;

Note: Water Parameters are important in diagnosing problems within a tank. If you don't own test kits for the following information, you can purchase them, test your parameters and post this info as soon as possible.


- temp 83-84 F

- ph 6.9

- ammonia reading 0

- nitrite reading 0

- nitrate reading Haven't checked today

What type of water or combinations of water sources do you use? If it is an RO/tap/well water mix, please list percentages in the mix.

- well water ____

- municipal water 100% (fully dechlorinated and treated)

- RO water ____


9. Any new fish, plants or inverts added recently.
Everything is new, including plants (which seem to be doing alright).


10. Include any pictures or videos you have which shows the symptoms. If you can't add them to this post, please provide a link to them.

Second Hand Pat
08-11-2014, 04:28 PM
Please test your ammonia/nitrite again. You added all the fish at one time and even if you did a fishless cycle I doubt your BB is not yet up to the bio-load you introduced to your tank and with discus you really need to do daily WCs. I would start with 50% or more until your BB catches up to your bio-load. Do you have adults or juvies?

nc0gnet0
08-11-2014, 04:46 PM
how did you fully cycle a tank in 11 days?

How many Discus did you add?


5. Water change regime (What percentage and how often).
N/A (although I plan to do water changes 2x a week - at least until this fish gets better

LOL, lot to learn, might want to check out the beginner section, as pat suggests, 50%+ daily is what the doctor ordered.


6. How long has tank been running? Is it bare bottom? If you have substrate, what type and how deep is it?
11 days. Small/medium sized rock substrate. 3-5 inches deep

Unless these fish are full size adults, or at least near, I would strongly recommend a bare bottom tank.

Pics will help.

-Rick

GTOAviator
08-11-2014, 05:43 PM
Thanks Pat,

The tank was cycled with Seachem Stability, as recommended, for 7 days prior to the discus. I introduced 2 of the Corys and most of the plants at day 4 to get a little ammonia produced. There are 6 discus in all - introduced together, although I have a close working relationship with my LFS and know that 1 of them is older and has been in their community tank for awhile. The other 5 are fresh in 3 days ago and all look a little more rambunctious. The "damaged discus" is 1 of these new 5.

I have tested the ammonia and nitrite levels multiple times - they ARE zero.

The only other thing I can think of is some weird, white stringy stuff that has been growing all over the wooden logs. It almost looks like bacteria, although I've read and heard it described as "white cloud hair algae".

The reason I haven't cycled water is because it has only been 3 days and I've read all over the web of discus owners who strongly discourage large water changes while trying to adapt newly obtained discus. Of course the ammonia levels will spike without fully established BB, but since they are all reading zero I don't believe this is the issue.

The discus are probably on the 3.5" to 4" size which I understand to be out of the juvenile stage.

UPDATE: It's been about 3 hours since the first feeding. The "damaged discus" seems to be getting chased by the others a little more than usual - could this be a sign of aggression towards a sick fish in discus terminology? Other than that, the fish seems about the same and the eye actually looks better - although this could simply be from banging into things and losing some of the white growth that was attached (not sure).

Any and all advice appreciated. I will be doing a 30% water change this afternoon and if it doesn't kill the fish I'll go for a 30-50% change tomorrow. Can't use salt, planted tank.

Second Hand Pat
08-11-2014, 07:17 PM
Hi GTOAviator, I would suggest still keeping an eye on the ammonia etc. Also where did you hear that WCs kill newly acquired discus? When I bring in new discus they get a daily 50% WC the first week and sometime longer depending on how they are doing/eating. WCs on this forum is a way of life.

I would also suggest like Rick raising these guys out in a BB and adding them to your display tank later. Even at 3.5 to 4 inches they will do best with 100% WCs and several feedings a day. If you have time please consider reading some of the stickies in the beginner section.
Pat

GTOAviator
08-11-2014, 07:51 PM
Excellent! I actually really believe in frequent water changes and I'm happy the attitude seems to be the same here. I'll do a 30-40% today and again every 1-2 days.

At what point of damaged discus not eating do I start to worry? He hasn't eaten much at all today. I've heard discus can go quite awhile without eating but I'm assuming not eating is a symptom of something bigger going on in this case...

Thanks again!

GTOAviator
08-12-2014, 09:30 PM
UPDATE: After a 40% water change last night and a thorough gravel cleaning, the fish are doing much better. They all ate this morning when I fed them and today when I got home from work they were all waiting at the front/top of the glass to be fed. They are so intelligent! All of them are eating now, sharing space, and don't seem to be bullying as much as they were.

"Damaged discus" looks alright, eats normally, and seems to be part of the crew now. I'm going to continue with the frequent water change intervals and light small meals. They really seem to like that.

Second Hand Pat
08-12-2014, 09:42 PM
Great news and hope the fish continue to improve. Keep that BB tank in mind ok?