WC Plumbing for 125 gallon

[gordo33]

I am planning to set up a 125g RR Aqueon aquarium that includes 2 overflows. Each overflow contain 2 1" cut outs in the bottom of the tank. 94617 A 20-30 gal sump will be used for filtration. I would like to dedicate one of the cut outs as a drain for WC. The fish tank is in a room adjacent to the kitchen. My plan would be to run the drain line through the wall, continuing through cabinets to the plumbing for the kitchen sinks. There is a double sink one plumbed with garbage disposal and dishwasher which connects with the second sink to the drain pipe via a tee. 94616
The drain from the fish tank would come in through the wall just above the bucket of sponges in the left corner of the picture.

My first question is using one of the tank cut outs for a drain a good idea?
If yes what is the best option for connecting the fish tank drain line to the existing sink plumbing?

If plumbing the drain line directly from the tank is not a good or the best option how else can I drain the tank for WC and tie it to the sinks plumbing.

To fill the tank I plan on pumping aged water up from the basement. The water will be contained in a 55 gal drum underneath the display tank. Is the best option to pump the aged water into the sump?
Thanks for your assistance

[gordo33]

This set up is for Discus

[rickztahone]

You can simply tap in to the pvc I think and add a T with a barb attachment with hose from wherever you plan on bringing the dirty water from.

As far as only using one overflow? It may need both overflows in order to have enough flow as only 1" drain will be pretty restricting. IMHO

[DJW]

I might be understanding the set-up wrong, but won't the drain pipe be behind the wall of the overflow? Or would you drill through the side of it?

[MKD]

I would use threaded union, ballvalve under the tank and before sink pipe. Flexi hose connects between 2 ball valves.
I enjoy plumbing so have fun.
Tony

[gordo33]

You can simply tap in to the pvc I think and add a T with a barb attachment with hose from wherever you plan on bringing the dirty water from.

As far as only using one overflow? It may need both overflows in order to have enough flow as only 1" drain will be pretty restricting. IMHO
Why do you think the 1" overflow would be too restrictive. The numbers I have seen for water gravity fed through a 1" pipe is 900+ gph. I know the numbers would be less because of some bends but thought it would be enough to empty 60 gal in 10 minutes.
How do you remove water from your display tank?

[gordo33]

I might be understanding the set-up wrong, but won't the drain pipe be behind the wall of the overflow? Or would you drill through the side of it?
I do plan on going through the wall and running the line from the tank to the sinks plumbing? Any thoughts on my post would be appreciated

[gordo33]

I would use threaded union, ballvalve under the tank and before sink pipe. Flexi hose connects between 2 ball valves.
I enjoy plumbing so have fun.
Tony

Thanks for the input. Does the flex hose need a barb fitting that would connect to the threaded union. Why threaded Union vs slip. What's your thoughts on Ricardo's concern the 1" overflow will be too restrictive.

[MKD]

I like the threaded unions connect to barbs fitings because reusable and undo able. I don't like to glue them together because it's fixed hard to go thru walls and you have to cut it if you need to change something.

I think he meant other overflow to sump. 1" hose to drain is ok. I don't think 1.5 " will benefit you much because it will slow down at the T connect to sink drain pipe.

Hope it makes sense.

[rickztahone]

I like the threaded unions connect to barbs fitings because reusable and undo able. I don't like to glue them together because it's fixed hard to go thru walls and you have to cut it if you need to change something.

I think he meant other overflow to sump. 1" hose to drain is ok. I don't think 1.5 " will benefit you much because it will slow down at the T connect to sink drain pipe.

Hope it makes sense.

One thing I should have been more clear about is that in these type of overflows, where there are 2 from manufacturer, you want to use both in case of a clog. Imagine, you only have 1 drain, what if it gets clogged? Where does all the water go? OUT OF YOUR TANK.

Both overflows serve as a form of redundancy. The flow in the DT will depend greatly on the return pump, do you know what you plan to use? For a 125g you will want somewhere between 500-900gph

[gordo33]

I like the threaded unions connect to barbs fitings because reusable and undo able. I don't like to glue them together because it's fixed hard to go thru walls and you have to cut it if you need to change something.

I think he meant other overflow to sump. 1" hose to drain is ok. I don't think 1.5 " will benefit you much because it will slow down at the T connect to sink drain pipe.

Hope it makes sense.
Ok thanks for input with fittings.
There is a total 4 1" overflows. My plan was one as a drain for WC , one for return from sump and two to sump set up as herbie overflow. Do you think this set up would function properly? I am assuming the flow into the sump would be 900 gph based on the 1" overflow and would match that flow with return pump. If my thinking is not correct could you explain. I am not experienced witht plumbing and trying to figure this out. Thanks

[gordo33]

One thing I should have been more clear about is that in these type of overflows, where there are 2 from manufacturer, you want to use both in case of a clog. Imagine, you only have 1 drain, what if it gets clogged? Where does all the water go? OUT OF YOUR TANK.

Both overflows serve as a form of redundancy. The flow in the DT will depend greatly on the return pump, do you know what you plan to use? For a 125g you will want somewhere between 500-900gph

I think I may have answered your question in my response to Tony. If my thoughts are not correct please elaborate. I am reading info on SD forum and other web sites. I am a novice with this so if I am missing something here I would appreciate your help. I have seen the Durso that uses one overflow, the herbie that uses two overflows and your set up using BA with 3 overflows. I assume the returns are coming over the top of the DT. So my thoughts were to use the 4 overflows as I discribed. If this is not feasible I can go with manufacturer set up 2 returns and 2 overflows to sump. Then figure out something else to drain tank for WC.

[rickztahone]

I think I may have answered your question in my response to Tony. If my thoughts are not correct please elaborate. I am reading info on SD forum and other web sites. I am a novice with this so if I am missing something here I would appreciate your help. I have seen the Durso that uses one overflow, the herbie that uses two overflows and your set up using BA with 3 overflows. I assume the returns are coming over the top of the DT. So my thoughts were to use the 4 overflows as I discribed. If this is not feasible I can go with manufacturer set up 2 returns and 2 overflows to sump. Then figure out something else to drain tank for WC.

You can always drill another hole somewhere in the tank, preferably at the tank bottom (if the tank isn't tempered) and make the WC's super easy. If you have 2x 1" holes, you can easily make them as you describe and simply bring the return over the tank rim. That would work. I thought you were doing one hole for drain and the other for return, leaving you with only one full on siphon. That wouldn't have been my best choice.

[MKD]

Sorry for confusion, here is a quick phone draw (I'm not an artist). Usually the hook pipe handles at least 75% and other pipe handles other portion 25%. You can still use both , just split the T any pipe with ball valves but I prefer the straight one. The piece in the tank, cut it into 2 pieces to the level you are going to water and connect them with coupling. When do water change, just simple remove the top piece and water will stop at coupling. Piece below the tank, close ballvalve to sump and open ball valve to kitchen sink.

[gordo33]

Sorry for confusion, here is a quick phone draw (I'm not an artist). Usually the hook pipe handles at least 75% and other pipe handles other portion 25%. You can still use both , just split the T any pipe with ball valves but I prefer the straight one. The piece in the tank, cut it into 2 pieces to the level you are going to water and connect them with coupling. When do water change, just simple remove the top piece and water will stop at coupling. Piece below the tank, close ballvalve to sump and open ball valve to kitchen sink.

Pic was helpful thanks. So if I am understanding :
In your drawing both pipes are overflows with the red providing the majority water into the sump. I am using the blue to Double as the drain pipe for WC. That leaves the 2 holes in the second overflow box for the returns from the pump. Do I understand your schematic? My original thought was to have the 2 overflow pipes to the sump and use the second overflow box cutouts for the return to the DT and the second hole in that box for the drain to the sink. What is the advantage having two returns to DT? If I have two returns coming into the DT does that mean I am spitting the outlet from the pump to create two returns?
Thanks for your assistance it's important I get this right before adding fish to the tank

[gordo33]

You can always drill another hole somewhere in the tank, preferably at the tank bottom (if the tank isn't tempered) and make the WC's super easy. If you have 2x 1" holes, you can easily make them as you describe and simply bring the return over the tank rim. That would work. I thought you were doing one hole for drain and the other for return, leaving you with only one full on siphon. That wouldn't have been my best choice.
Thanks for your input

[MKD]

You still can run 2 overflows to sump but Can you get some pics for better ideas?

[gordo33]

You still can run 2 overflows to sump but Can you get some pics for better ideas?
I don't know what pics you are referring to. I don't have the tank yet. I am in the process of finishing the room where the tank will be. The tank I am referring to is an Aqueon RR 125'gal. The picture in my original post shows one of two overflow boxes that comes with the tank . On their web site they show both overflow boxes set up as the one pictured in my first post. So total of 2 pipes running to sump and two pipes as returns from the pump. Each over flow box contains a pipe to the sump and one returning from sump. I plan on going to the LFS where I will purchase the tank this weekend. I can take pictures if it would be helpful.
I hope I'm not making this confusing or more complicated than it should be.
Can you clarify what pics you mean ?

[MKD]

I thought you have the tank.
Here are 2 options, red are overflows and blue are returns.
- Top pic using 2 overflows, 2 returns, connect to 4-way fittings. 2 returns spread out current, cover more surface that means less dead spots?

Bottom pic using 2 overflows, 1 return.

Inputs are welcome.

[gordo33]

I thought you have the tank.
Here are 2 options, red are overflows and blue are returns.
- Top pic using 2 overflows, 2 returns, connect to 4-way fittings. 2 returns spread out current, cover more surface that means less dead spots?

Bottom pic using 2 overflows, 1 return.

Inputs are welcome.

Tony, thanks for your help. Based on your diagram description seems the best option would be using two returns to enhance the surface current. I will plan the plumbing based on this option. One last thought...
Would draining the DT be enhanced by adding a couple and a removable pipe to the second return? Is total gph flowing out of the tank the sum of the holes being used or just the size of the hole? Assuming water flowing through a 1" hole is 900 gph would the water draining through 2 1" holes be 1800 gph. If this increases gph flowing from the DT would the pipe diameter leading to the sink need to be larger to accommodate the increased flow?

[MKD]

It's good to add option to 2nd return.
Total water drain out will depend on plumbing. Let assume 1" return (I'm guessing it's 3/4").
2 x1" drains >>connect to 1" 3-way fitting >> connect 1" out to sink = 1" waterflow.
2 x1" drains >>connect to 1.5" 3-way fitting >> connect 1" out to sink = 1" waterflow.
2 x1" drains >>connect to 1.5" 3-way fitting >> connect 1.5" out to sink = 2x 1" waterflow.

[gordo33]

It's good to add option to 2nd return.
Total water drain out will depend on plumbing. Let assume 1" return (I'm guessing it's 3/4").
2 x1" drains >>connect to 1" 3-way fitting >> connect 1" out to sink = 1" waterflow.
2 x1" drains >>connect to 1.5" 3-way fitting >> connect 1" out to sink = 1" waterflow.
2 x1" drains >>connect to 1.5" 3-way fitting >> connect 1.5" out to sink = 2x 1" waterflow.

Got it. Again thanks for your assistance

[MKD]

Your welcome. Have fun and enjoy.

[Cosmo]

why not plumb the overflows as they are intended and then put a second pump in your sump to pump the water from the sump to the kitchen for the WC? Usually these things are designed as they are for a reason, I would think. I don't use a sump anymore but that is how I had mine plumbed years ago

[gordo33]

why not plumb the overflows as they are intended and then put a second pump in your sump to pump the water from the sump to the kitchen for the WC?
I thought about the possibility of using a pump. Would I be able to use the same pump that connects the return lines with a 3way tee allowing a separate drain line. I would put valves on the return lines to close them during WC allowing water to divert to drain line. I would set up the overflows to the sump as Tony suggested with a couple allowing me to pull off a pipe lowering the height of the overflow pipe to drain the tank. My reasoning would be to use one pump instead of two.
Will the pump drain the water faster than the siphon set up discribed by Tony?


Usually these things are designed as they are for a reason, I would think. I don't use a sump anymore but that is how I had mine plumbed years ago

The sump will be DYI. the tank is drilled with 4 1" holes 2 each in an internal overflow box. IMHO I would think the plumbing could be customized. Curious why you no longer use a sump and what type of filtration do you currently run?
Thanks for your input

[billyboy]

i dont think you can use those megaflow boxes to do WC. bcz those megaflow boxes acts like overflow box. it means each one take certain amount of water. you can not do that lovering by intake pipe in the megaflow box. it simply does not help. bcz intake pipe can only drains what amount water comes into megaflow box. thats it!
i have 210 gallon tank and it has two of megaflow boxes. i was planing to do the same thing but it wont happen. there is only one way to whole water changes which is putting a pump into the tank. my second thought was drilling the bottom but it is tempered :(
please correct me if i am wrong