Making a stand/rack? Strong enough?

[dprais1]

Not sure where to post this. Or what to title it


I want to put a 20H tank on a 2x12 pressure treated pine board

The ends of the board will be supported by cinder blocks. From cinder block to cinder block the span will be 36-38". The tank will sit in the middle and is only 24" wide.

Will this bow?

[dprais1]

The 'Sagulator' seems to suggest it would be okay, assuming I used it correctly

[Las Vegas]

The "sagulator" funny!

[dprais1]

http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/

[pitdogg2]

it will work fine I also use 2 2X10's on blocks to support my 45 high been on them for 10yrs still no sag.

[DJW]

I think with a 20 gallon tank its OK. The deflection would be tiny, but over time the wood loses its memory and a slight sag in the middle, even if you can't see it, will put the load on only the ends of the tank, and if the tank was much bigger that could be a problem because of the stresses on the glass.

The saginator calculates the deflection mainly for aesthetic reasons, whether you can see a bow in the shelf. For this reason any tank bigger than about 40g should have a more rigid support than that, like a 2x4 joist glued & screwed underneath. Pitdogg's shelf works so there's an indication. Personally I like to overdo structural support for the peace of mind that's in it.

[Las Vegas]

http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/
LOL! I never knew there was such a calculator!

[dprais1]

it will work fine I also use 2 2X10's on blocks to support my 45 high been on them for 10yrs still no sag.

Thanks, that puts my mind at ease. figured it would be fine but experience is best.


I think with a 20 gallon tank its OK. The deflection would be tiny, but over time the wood loses its memory and a slight sag in the middle, even if you can't see it, will put the load on only the ends of the tank, and if the tank was much bigger that could be a problem because of the stresses on the glass.

The saginator calculates the deflection mainly for aesthetic reasons, whether you can see a bow in the shelf. For this reason any tank bigger than about 40g should have a more rigid support than that, like a 2x4 joist glued & screwed underneath. Pitdogg's shelf works so there's an indication. Personally I like to overdo structural support for the peace of mind that's in it.

I'll put some insulation board underneath that may help distribute the weight of the tank.



LOL! I never knew there was such a calculator!

I think it is one of those weird google gems you only find if you need it...but that doesn't mean I trust it 100%

[pitdogg2]

I think with a 20 gallon tank its OK. The deflection would be tiny, but over time the wood loses its memory and a slight sag in the middle, even if you can't see it, will put the load on only the ends of the tank, and if the tank was much bigger that could be a problem because of the stresses on the glass.

The saginator calculates the deflection mainly for aesthetic reasons, whether you can see a bow in the shelf. For this reason any tank bigger than about 40g should have a more rigid support than that, like a 2x4 joist glued & screwed underneath. Pitdogg's shelf works so there's an indication. Personally I like to overdo structural support for the peace of mind that's in it.

Or build so that the tank sits on the 2" part and then you have the whole 10-12" the weight is on would be much better....just sayin

[pitdogg2]

there are two things going against you on this, Pressure treated wood does shrink Length and width as the water used to pressure treat dries out then some treated cracks badly and twist as this wood dries out. Your blocks should be moved closer to the end of the AQ. If it was me I'd use 2 2x8 and use southern yellow pine that is not treated. Screwing or gluing a piece of 3/4 or 1/2 plywood to the top of your treated wood should alleviate any bad mojo

[DJW]

I just measured a 20H tank and the glass is 12.25" wide, frame is 12.5". And 12" lumber is only 11.5" wide...There are lots of ways to do it but a single "12 inch" board won't be wide enough.

[SomeFin's Fishy]

Dan- If you're still having a problem figuring it out, or just need some advice, give me a call and you can stop by and I can give you a hand. This is actually pretty simple and wouldn't take long.

[dprais1]

Here's what I have going now

965289652996530


The 20Hs are on a 2x12 and a 2x6 fills in the gap and provides some wiggle room.

There is a bit of sag but I have 2 20Hs on a 50" span. That vertical skinny cinder block is actually about .5" lower than the ends.

The 65's are just supported by cinder blocks--no wood at all.

I will start a journal pretty soon but I think I will give the single 20H's with a 36" span a try.

Thanks.



Oh, threads without fish stink. close up of my 65

965319653296533

[dprais1]

Dan- If you're still having a problem figuring it out, or just need some advice, give me a call and you can stop by and I can give you a hand. This is actually pretty simple and wouldn't take long.


Thanks Mark,

I give you a call soon, I'd like to pick your brain a bit...
dan

[Akili]

Nice Setup!!

[SomeFin's Fishy]

You should have absolutely no problems with the setup the way it is! There appears to be plenty of support.

[pitdogg2]

You should have absolutely no problems with the setup the way it is! There appears to be plenty of support.

agreed

[Phillydubs]

I was going to ask or say, can you use use more cinder-blocks to alleviate the sag?