Long Island, NY tap warer - Nitrates????

[ebaybrad]

Anyone on Long Island? I live in Nassau County , Jericho water District. I am getting 30ish ppm reading for Nitrates right from the tap, through my filters, and same in my tank with my drip system. Obviously, this is not good. I call the town and the superintendent is insistent that this is completely inaccurate. That they test about 3ppm and never over 5. NEVER.

I tried 2 different test kits. API and Red sea. The red sea kit is one I used on my reef tanks. However, I used solely RO water in them so this never was a problem. I know the api tests are harder to get accurate results with and temperamental...

but, WTH?

Anyone else have this problem?

[DJW]

Something you should be aware of... the EPA and probably the water district use different units than our test kits. So, 5 ppm by their unit is equivalent to 22 ppm by an aquarium test kit, and if you measure 30 ppm in your tap that would be about 7 ppm in his world.

They use a unit called nitrate-nitrogen (NO3-N) and aquarium test kits measure plain nitrate and include three fat oxygens (NO3) on the scale.

[ebaybrad]

Great. figures.

I am thinking about reconnecting my RO and DI stages and using a dosing pump from my previous reef tank to add the RO rright additive to the RO water going in.
It goes in at about 40gpd and using the dilution calculator for drip systems it should work.

It isn't my kit or my husbandry. I tested straight RO water and it comes back perfect 0. everything else comes back 20-30 (tank, filtered and tap).

[ebaybrad]

I am really frustrated with this. Not to mention that I got a bit over zealous with the API shaking directions and ended up with mixed Nitrate reagent in my F* eye. Hydrochloric acid burns like hell.

I really didnt want to have to do RO on this tank. On a drip, it will be really hard to reconsitute the water and not mess up ph at some point. I am aging some water and about to test it again...

[Phillydubs]

So you age water or go straight tap? I am in Nassau county Oceanside and I age my water at least 24 hrs

[ebaybrad]

So you age water or go straight tap? I am in Nassau county Oceanside and I age my water at least 24 hrs

My water goes from a water spigot through a 3 stage carbon filter and into the tank at a rate of 40gpd. I am going to have to change that cuz I have nitrate in the water. Does your oceanside water have nitrate in it from the tap? Aging did nothing for me.

[ebaybrad]

ok. 24 hrs aging did absolutely nothing. I am going to have to go with ro water dripped into the tank at the rate of 40-50 gpd and then use a dosing pump to add RO right at the correct amount.

Any ideas on how to judge the amount of RO right to add? My RO water is definitely below 6.0. I tested to the lower limits of the API PH kit for now.

Really could use some help. Right now PH is 7.4, At 40 GPD it will come down gradually.

[DJW]

A drip system gets complicated if you don't have great water from the tap.

If you went with conventional batch water changes with aged RO you could use 20% tap for minerals and buffer to keep the pH stable. Then your WC water would be around 5 ppm nitrate. Not perfect, but doable.

[ebaybrad]

Here is how I am going to attempt to solve my nitrate problem from my tap water. I looked into Aquariapure reactor, resins, etc.. In the end, because I have a drip system this is what I came up with after speaking with Kent Marine and API.

I am going to reattach my RO portion of my 4 stage RO unit. I am going to leave off the DI section. I am going to use my 2 head dosing pump to drip at 3/4 dose based on 40g per day of ro water (diltuting into my system with my continuous drip) proper ph.6.5 and ro right. I am not going to dose the tank since it is stocked already.

My thoughts is it will remineralize the ro water and adjust slowly the ph (currently approx. 7.4) and maintain it thereafter.

I am so frustrated that my tap water has 30ppm of nitrate. I want the fish to have a nice environment. Tank is bare bottom with some driftwood.

It is a simple setup. The ro water enters into the aquarium 40gpd. The sump is bulkheaded into my waste pipe. As it overflows the diluted water goes down the drain. I am doing 3/4 dose because I don't change a true 40g a day. Proper ph maintains ph level and does not keep adjusting it if the dose is wrong.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I am going to pull the trigger this evening.

[ebaybrad]

discus buffer by seachem? Can I use that instead of proper ph 6.5 AND ro right?

[Phillydubs]

You don't think you can achieve the ph you need with the mix of ro and tap? I hate additives and feel like they create more harm then good. You get the fish used to this fake environment and one slip on your end and it hurts them as oposed to just stable water...

Are you new to the area? Or did you move to a new home and water system?

You sound very experienced with the checmical make ups and I have to imagine some newbie doesnt slap together a drip system so what has your past experience been like?

Did you loose fish suddenly and then look into the water issue?

Maybe it was a freak thing? Although long isalnd water I think is crappy, it isn't toxic and with some aging and prime I can't see it being an issue.

I live on the north shore - roslyn - work on the south - oceanside, have kept fish both places w no issue. Im currently not even aging water now in roslyn for my qt/hospital tank. doing fine off of tap and prime...

[ebaybrad]

You don't think you can achieve the ph you need with the mix of ro and tap? I hate additives and feel like they create more harm then good. You get the fish used to this fake environment and one slip on your end and it hurts them as oposed to just stable water...

I agree. I think I should use just the ro right additive dosed into the system. I won't touch the PH...thanks. The ro will do that anyway.

Are you new to the area? Or did you move to a new home and water system?

No. This system is setup for a long time. I ran it with cichlids. 30ppm in that environment warrants nothing. I never thought to test the tap as a result.
You sound very experienced with the checmical make ups and I have to imagine some newbie doesnt slap together a drip system so what has your past experience been like?

40 years experience. reefs, salt, etc.. I set up the drip because I got tired of the water change work in a saltwater aquarium. I didn't count on the bad tap water when I decided to upgrade to Discus.
I think I am almost there. I appreciate the advice. Also, I think once you have had a reef, you were so hands on in manipulating water that it is hard to just leave it alone. It is only when I decided to go discus that this became a hassle because of their requirements.

Did you loose fish suddenly and then look into the water issue?

No, I just want to give them the correct environment. I have trouble looking at them knowing they are stressed at 30-40ppm nitrates.

Maybe it was a freak thing? Although long isalnd water I think is crappy, it isn't toxic and with some aging and prime I can't see it being an issue.

NOPE, wish it was true.

I live on the north shore - roslyn - work on the south - oceanside, have kept fish both places w no issue. Im currently not even aging water now in roslyn for my qt/hospital tank. doing fine off of tap and prime...

Have you tested your tap water for nitrates? I would be so curious...especially Roslyn water. I am in Brookville. Jericho water district. work in Merrick... Going to bring some water home now...lol

Thank you so much for the reply.

[Phillydubs]

Yea take the water from Merrick and see... I honestly don't test here. I bring it to my friends at the lfs or have a buddy close by who i steal testers from... guilty as charged no test equipment here... I am only 33 but am rather old school, mostly sponges and HOBs and consistent changes and aged water... i take the KISS method... only I add a twist keep it simple for stupid ME (KISSME) METHOD

[Phillydubs]

I can try to run my water to a friend tomorrow if you'd like to get you more info?

[ebaybrad]

I appreciate the offer very much. It isn't necessary. I have been dripping only ro water into the tank for past 4 days. nitrates down now to 10ppm..on way down to close to zero. I hooked up my dosing pump and am just dosing ro right to replenish minerals. ph has been steady at 7.2 the whole time. The fish look happier and are eating much better.

I took your advice to not use a buffer as well.

much appreciated

[Phillydubs]

Glad to hear it seems to be working for you!

If I can help in any way please let me know. Happy to try!

[Hart24601]

I have a similar set up, Iowa was is really poor - a lot of agricultural runoff including ammonia. After it rains it gets even worse. I use a bulk reef supply water saving RO/DI system, 1:1 waste ratio. That goes into 3 44gallon brute cans that are plumbed. From there I have an apex and a masterflex pump so I can drip in whatever amount I want and there is an overflow from the sump down to the floor drain. I have a 120 and a 180 plumbed together on this system and generally flow 30-70 gpd depending on test kits.

I look at the pH off the apex and every few days put a sprinkle of baking soda in the brutes. Pretty easy. Keeps pH from 6.5-7.0 and TDS around 130. I recently started using half baking soda and half seachem equilibrium to give plants a bit less sodium, but with that low TDS I doubt it really matters.

I think it's a good move switching to RO, there are many things in the water that they don't test for, like other organics, and if you are getting nitrate there are probably other compounds coming in too.

[DJW]

I have a similar set up, Iowa was is really poor - a lot of agricultural runoff including ammonia. After it rains it gets even worse. I use a bulk reef supply water saving RO/DI system, 1:1 waste ratio. That goes into 3 44gallon brute cans that are plumbed. From there I have an apex and a masterflex pump so I can drip in whatever amount I want and there is an overflow from the sump down to the floor drain. I have a 120 and a 180 plumbed together on this system and generally flow 30-70 gpd depending on test kits.

I look at the pH off the apex and every few days put a sprinkle of baking soda in the brutes. Pretty easy. Keeps pH from 6.5-7.0 and TDS around 130. I recently started using half baking soda and half seachem equilibrium to give plants a bit less sodium, but with that low TDS I doubt it really matters.

I think it's a good move switching to RO, there are many things in the water that they don't test for, like other organics, and if you are getting nitrate there are probably other compounds coming in too.

I'm doing something very similar. I wonder how your TDS gets all the way up to 130 ppm. Does the 1:1 water-saver product water already have a higher TDS? My RO puts out 7 ppm and added minerals raise it to 30 to 60 ppm depending on my latest whims. Much higher for fry.

[Hart24601]

Oh, sorry I wasn't very clear. The RO/DI comes out at 0, (I use DI after the RO) but when I add the baking soda/equilibrium the TDS is raised before going into the tank. I don't pay attention to TDS at that point and don't check the tank very often but that and the food is where the TDS comes from. I don't have a set goal on the TDS or anything. The other tank has a fahaka puffer in it that I feed mystery snails, so I am sure the shells add some calcium and TDS too as they are plumbed together.

Really the only think I look at is the pH from time to time to make sure I am adding enough back to the RO containers, a couple shakes of baking soda and a sprinkle of equilibrium. Nothing fancy but it works and is simple and fast.

[DJW]

With my source water being very high in CO2 there is no point in having the DI. The resin is spent in a week, and I don't care at all about that last 7 ppm.

[Hart24601]

I can sure understand that. I use the DI as RO isn't all the great alone with removing nitrates and some organics so I like to use the DI as well. I think about 80% of nitrate is removed with RO only, so I probably don't really need the DI anyway. The TDS leaving the RO before DI runs between 1-3 on the inline TDS meter.

I wasn't implying anything wrong with how you run it, just how I run mine as FYI.

[DJW]

The last time I measured it the RO was removing about 90% of the nitrate, but the nitrate test being what it is... somewhere in that neighborhood. The nitrate peaked at 45+/- ppm and I thought the ro was around 4 ppm. I don't think I have any organic stuff to worry about.