Best backflow prevention device?

[HappyFace]

Do you recommend a specific back flow valve that you have had good success with?

Our back flow valve went out last night when I was feeding the fish. I have a shutoff valve so it's not a huge deal but I need to purchase a new back flow valve asap. I want one that will last a long time.

[Akili]

Hi Heidi, Not sure if this will help you ..................................http://www.marinedepot.com/search?Query=backflow%20valve

[LoGeek]

Heidi, would you please specify the application for the backflow valve?

[HappyFace]

Hi Heidi, Not sure if this will help you ..................................http://www.marinedepot.com/search?Query=backflow%20valve

Thank you Akili. :)

[HappyFace]

Heidi, would you please specify the application for the backflow valve?

It is to prevent water from back-flowing into the sump through the pump return line. I have a standpipe for the drain line so there is very little drainage there when the pump is off.

When I pushed the "feed" button on my pump 2 days ago as I was feeding the fish the water kept going lower and lower in the tank because the backflow valve failed. There was no water coming out the drain line so it is secure. I have a shutoff valve for the return line so I closed it and unplugged the pump while I fed the fish.

[Lido]

I use the Clear PVC true union Check Valve's sold at Home Depot. They seem to work well and if it malfunctions you can see the problem right away. I had one my my reef system for 5 years no problem at all. The problem with plastic is usually exposure to light or the rubber drying out.

106817

[HappyFace]

Thank you Lido.

[LoGeek]

It is to prevent water from back-flowing into the sump through the pump return line. I have a standpipe for the drain line so there is very little drainage there when the pump is off.

Ok. I don't even have a sump but I understand the application. Is it also not a good idea to have the return hose end right beneath the surface? In that way you can make sure there's enough volume in the sump to hold the small amount of water that can backflow before the siphon stops.

[HappyFace]

Ok. I don't even have a sump but I understand the application. Is it also not a good idea to have the return hose end right beneath the surface? In that way you can make sure there's enough volume in the sump to hold the small amount of water that can backflow before the siphon stops.

I'm not sure what you mean by the return hose ending right below the surface.

My tank is 200 gallons and my sump is 90 gallons. Normally when the pump shuts off for feeding the backflow valve kicks in preventing water from going back through the return line and pump. The drain strandpipe only allows the water from above the overflow box teeth to go into the sump, so only about 15 gallons of water tops flows back into the sump through the drain line.

When the backflow valve to the pump failed a lot more water goes directly back the return line. The water pressure pushes it backwards until the water level in the tank reaches below the level of the return jets. The only way I know of to prevent this from happening is with a backflow valve.

[LoGeek]

I mean that where your return ends in the aquarium (what you call return jets) can be located just beneath the surface. In the case of a pump and valve failure only a few gallons can backflow before the water level reaches the "return jets" and breaks the siphon. If you have enough volume in the sump for these gallons of water the system is fail proof. It's the same logic as your drain pipe being right beneath the surface.

If there's a reason you want the jets deeper, you can drill a small hole right beneath the surface instead. That will also break the siphon when air enters.

[HappyFace]

[QUOTE=LoGeek;1251407]I mean that where your return ends in the aquarium (what you call return jets) can be located just beneath the surface. In the case of a pump and valve failure only a few gallons can backflow before the water level reaches the "return jets" and breaks the siphon. If you have enough volume in the sump for these gallons of water the system is fail proof. It's the same logic as your drain pipe being right beneath the surface.

Thank you LoGeek. I need to look into the siphon breaking hole idea of yours.

[HappyFace]

I just found this siphon stopper. It looks interesting https://www.customaquariums.com/information/siphon-stopper.html

[rickztahone]

[QUOTE=LoGeek;1251407]I mean that where your return ends in the aquarium (what you call return jets) can be located just beneath the surface. In the case of a pump and valve failure only a few gallons can backflow before the water level reaches the "return jets" and breaks the siphon. If you have enough volume in the sump for these gallons of water the system is fail proof. It's the same logic as your drain pipe being right beneath the surface.

Thank you LoGeek. I need to look into the siphon breaking hole idea of yours.

a siphon break is easy to apply to any intake. Simply drill a hole, use some airline tubing to route it toward the water surface but not clearing it all the way out. When you shut off your filter, when it gets to that point, it will pull air and it will stop the back siphon.

In reefing, these valves with the flap ALWAYS fail according to all members. It isn't an issue of if, but when. Many just avoid them all together or put things in place to prevent this from happening.

This is why I love my overflow, even if there are 2 clogs in my system, it can still operate like normal but it will alert me.

[HappyFace]

[QUOTE=HappyFace;1251409]

a siphon break is easy to apply to any intake. Simply drill a hole, use some airline tubing to route it toward the water surface but not clearing it all the way out. When you shut off your filter, when it gets to that point, it will pull air and it will stop the back siphon.

In reefing, these valves with the flap ALWAYS fail according to all members. It isn't an issue of if, but when. Many just avoid them all together or put things in place to prevent this from happening.

This is why I love my overflow, even if there are 2 clogs in my system, it can still operate like normal but it will alert me.

Thank you Rick. Do you have a link to your overflow setup please?

[rickztahone]

[QUOTE=rickztahone;1251418]

Thank you Rick. Do you have a link to your overflow setup please?

I sure do. It is right in my signature, but here is the link as well. Watch the first 2 videos. Bear in mind, I do not have a siphon break as I rely on my Bean Animal system to keep everything in check.

[HappyFace]

[QUOTE=HappyFace;1251420]

I sure do. It is right in my signature, but here is the link as well. Watch the first 2 videos. Bear in mind, I do not have a siphon break as I rely on my Bean Animal system to keep everything in check.

Thank you for sharing Rick. It looks like a really neat system you have going and such cute helpers. :)

[Lido]

[QUOTE=HappyFace;1251409]

a siphon break is easy to apply to any intake. Simply drill a hole, use some airline tubing to route it toward the water surface but not clearing it all the way out. When you shut off your filter, when it gets to that point, it will pull air and it will stop the back siphon.

In reefing, these valves with the flap ALWAYS fail according to all members. It isn't an issue of if, but when. Many just avoid them all together or put things in place to prevent this from happening.

This is why I love my overflow, even if there are 2 clogs in my system, it can still operate like normal but it will alert me.

You should have a true union check valve, you should have a syphon break. You should never fill your aquarium beyond the point of your sump capacity when your system is off. You should build a "durso" style standpipe for multiple reasons in your overflow box. You should have sufficient sump capacity so that you don't even have to come CLOSE to full when your system is running. The max you should fill a sump while running is 60% You should put a 90 from your bulkhead to your returns and drill a hole at the top of those so there is a very low chance of a syphon.

There is a whole list of protocol to prevent this from happening. She simply asked "what is the best check valve" there is only really one unless you want to get into some REALLY expensive system of actuators and battery backups....


Heidi,

What type of overflow box are you using?

NVM, Rick beat me to it. A Bean Animal system is a great setup.

[HappyFace]

[QUOTE=rickztahone;1251418]

You should have a true union check valve, you should have a syphon break. You should never fill your aquarium beyond the point of your sump capacity when your system is off. You should build a "durso" style standpipe for multiple reasons in your overflow box. You should have sufficient sump capacity so that you don't even have to come CLOSE to full when your system is running. The max you should fill a sump while running is 60% You should put a 90 from your bulkhead to your returns and drill a hole at the top of those so there is a very low chance of a syphon.

There is a whole list of protocol to prevent this from happening. She simply asked "what is the best check valve" there is only really one unless you want to get into some REALLY expensive system of actuators and battery backups....


Heidi,

What type of overflow box are you using?

NVM, Rick beat me to it. A Bean Animal system is a great setup.

I have a regular corner overflow box inside the tank, no durso on the drain. Maybe it is possible to drill holes in the white return line pipe that sticks up out of the water? See attached images. Sorry I need to clean those return pipes.

[HappyFace]

I could drill 2 holes in the piece I colored red and that would break siphon right?

[Lido]

Go to BeanAnimal.com it has a very detailed description on how it should work.

I would not drill your hole on the top unless you want a cute lil fountain :) If you are going to drill a hole, it should be slightly below the water line and at a downward angle. The only true way to break the syphon 100% effectively, every time is having an air gap. That website will explain it.

[HappyFace]

Ok Thank you Lido. :)

Does anyone recommend a drill for small tight fitting areas, please?

[Akili]

Here is an example. Wherever your return line enters the tank, just drill a hole right at the water line Photo is from Fishforum.com
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[rickztahone]

Here is an example. Wherever your return line enters the tank, just drill a hole right at the water line Photo is from Fishforum.com
106852

This is what I meant. You can stick an airline hose on the hole to route it close to the water surface and drill the hole just a little lower

[Neptune]

Here is a picture of a siphon break on a bean animal for example.
The idea is the same:

Drill a hole and fit it with a piece of airline tubing. Make the length of the tube so it is below the water surface. As long as it is underwater it can not suck air and will maintain a siphon.
As soon as the water level drops below, it will start sucking air and break the siphon.

[Ryan925]

I would agree with the siphon break hole as it really should never fail you.

I just wanted to share a bit if info for all the sump people out there. If you do like to have a check valve I have a better option for you. As some of you may know I am in the pool industry. We use these checks for pool plumbing. The nice thing about these valves is that they are serviceable. You can open them to clean them or you can replace the check internal without ever having to replumb the valve. The make them in 180 and 90 degree. The one pictured is made by Jandy but pentair and hayward make their own version. They are a bit pricey but well worth never having to replace the valve body. 107039

[Jack L]

i have a hole drilled like rick mentioned too. i periodically clean it with a pipe cleaner as it can get gunked up and not break the siphon fast enough.

the pic from Naz is the idea, but i have the holes drilled on the return pipe within the overflow chamber, but same principle. in your photo, it looks like you have a similar overflow chamber.

it just needs to be exposed to air when pump stops and water wants to back feed.

also keep in mind the location of the hole, it will spray out a constant stream when running.

[Jack L]

I mean that where your return ends in the aquarium (what you call return jets) can be located just beneath the surface. In the case of a pump and valve failure only a few gallons can backflow before the water level reaches the "return jets" and breaks the siphon. If you have enough volume in the sump for these gallons of water the system is fail proof. It's the same logic as your drain pipe being right beneath the surface.

If there's a reason you want the jets deeper, you can drill a small hole right beneath the surface instead. That will also break the siphon when air enters.

Logeek, i try to keep mine as close to surface as possible for this reason, but if i keep it too close, then i get a lot of water noise on surface.

[Jack L]

right angle drill

but its pvc, might be able to heat up bit with torch and just melt hole