0.25 ppm Ammonia Won't Go Away

[CammieTime]

My 75 gallon tank is stuck at 0.25 ppm Ammonia according to my API Test Kit (slightly green color). No matter what I do, the ammonia will not go away, but it does not go up either. My tap water has 0.0 ppm ammonia (full yellow color). The discus appear perfectly healthy swimming around and eating vigorously. I've added cycled filter media and done water changes. Nothing works. Tank filtration: 110AC + Marineland 360 Canister + 2x Hyrdo V Sponge Filters.

According to Google, there are many others who have the same problem. Some people claim the 0.25 ppm is within the error range for the API Test Kit. Others shrug their shoulders since the fish are acting fine and make the 0.25 ppm a baseline and only take action if the ammonia concentration goes up. Still others claim that there is 'always a little ammonia in the tank' and this is simply what the API Test Kit is showing - ammonia right after its created prior to consumption by the beneficial bacteria. I guess this kind of makes sense, as ammonia must exist before it can be consumed.

Anybody experience this before? Any thoughts on what is going on? What did you do to get to 0.0 ppm ammonia in your tank?

[Sabrina]

Hello,
When do you test your tank water? For the most accurate reading of Ammonia, test your tank first thing in the morning before you feed your fish. The reason behind that is your filters have had all night to break down the ammonia from feeding during the day, and also, if you test for ammonia close to times you have fed your fish it will show a positive reading of ammonia in your water from the foods.... :)

[CammieTime]

I test right before the nightly feeding, which is usually about 12 hours from the previous feeding in the morning. Even still, any ammonia in the tank is bad.

[14Discus]

Hi,

Does your API Test kit test for total Ammonia (NH3 and NH4)? If so, try getting a test kit for Free Ammonia only(NH3). I use the kit for this by Seachem. When total Ammonia is tested for, it is for the two types. NH4 is Ammonium which is not the most dangerous form. The NH3 test tests specifically for the most dangerous form (Free Ammonia)..

Keep in mind that your pH can play a role as well. Lower pH levels tend to have less of the NH3 and more of the NH4 while higher pH levels tend to have more of the NH3 bad stuff and less of the NH4 Ammonium. Your pH has to be stable no matter what. Getting a test kit by API for KH would be a good idea as a good KH (buffering) will help keep your pH steady while you sort out your .25 issue. The link below does a great job of covering this pH to Ammonia/Ammonium relationship.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=v1vIyGf9kRI


So, if you test for NH3 specifically and still get a .25 reading, you'll have to take action asap. Using a starter batch of nitrifying bacteria (along the lines of Tetra Safe Start) added to your filter and/or using Prime would be in order while you greatly reduce your feeding frequency and amounts. If your test for NH3 specifically shows 0, then I'd tend to think your initial readings were for the 'ok' stuff (Ammonium) and you need not worry. Generally, your focus should be on the NH3 in your water and this NH3 should be much closer to 0 as I see it.

Do you have live plants?
What is your pH?
Do you know your KH?

[14Discus]

Sorry....forgot two things.

First......if the API Test is inaccurate to the point of showing .25 when the actual is near 0, the kit is no good. Try getting a different API kit, retesting, and comparing. Sorry, but being a retired biology teacher causes me to test things to death.

Second.....Marineland also makes the 350 and 400 HOBs which have the bio wheels. These spinning wheels really make great biological bacteria growth areas. Just a thought.

[Megalodon]

My API ammonia test shows 0 with distilled water and 0 again when it's 0.04 ppm.

[RuinerM3]

IIRC you made the thread (and probably use) Prime as your water conditioner? I've read in multiple places that the 0.25 reading on the API test kit is actually ammonium that's been converted by the prime. Which would also explain why your fish are happy and healthy (in theory). I'm no expert on this but having seen the same thing come up multiple times on doing my homework, there might be some truth to it. I use prime also, and I usually get a 0 or 0.25 on ammonia (usually dependent on what time of day I test).

[Megalodon]

Prime doesn't convert ammonia to ammonium. Whatever it converts it to, the bacteria are still supposed to be able to consume it so eventually ammonia tests should read zero. I still get a reading of zero when I use Prime. I suppose I wouldn't right after a water change but it should be zero a few hours later, at most.

https://i.imgur.com/J4bqO7Hl.jpg

Distilled water (left), tank water (right).

https://i.imgur.com/J9GStXyl.jpg

Same as above but with a more sensitive test. You can see the tube on the right is slightly greener.

https://i.imgur.com/bpmyftgl.jpg

There's always some ammonia.

[CammieTime]

I dumped a whole bottle of Tetra Safe Start into the tank a month ago and that failed. pH is stable 8.4.

[Megalodon]

Maybe you have too much decomposing organic matter in your filters? I clean my mechanical filtration every other day. It's quick and easy with a wet/dry filter. Not so with a canister.