heater choice

[ash84]

hi guys I'm looking at getting a 100 to 120gallon tank which heater should I go for been looking at the fluval e series 300watt was thinking of getting 2 of them.does anyone here use them I did read that they have an issue with the flow sensor playing up.

[Adam S]

No experience with Fluval heaters, but a good formula for determining watts is:

[(desired temp - room temp)/10] * gallons * 3 to 5 watts (varies heater to heater) = total watts required

Ex: [(82F desired temp - 74F room temp)/10] = 0.8; 0.8 * 120 gallons * 3 to 5 watts = 288 to 480 total watts required

All heaters are "cheap," so it's wise to invest in a quality controller, use multiple smaller heaters or both to prevent/mitigate failures.

[jeep]

Here's what I'm thinking about... I've heard good things about these controllers.

Heater - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/finnex-th-deluxe-titanium-heating-element-with-plastic-guard.html

Controller - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Good-Digital-STC-1000-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-With-Sensor/263658945293?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=562771339295&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

[Megalodon]

I've used the Fluval Es for several years now and they're my favorite. The first thing I do when receiving one is remove the plastic guard. That solves all the flow problems. I think removing the guard also removes the suction cup mounts but I have a sump so I just drop them in.

[MickO'S]

Likewise to the other people who have answered your questions,

I have at the moment 2 150 watt heaters in a new similar sized aquarium (was 3 but one blew yesterday) Im getting one more to allow for that built in redundancy, None will be under pressure or working hard to keep the temperatures.
None of this is as easy without a sump though!

Best of luck with the project

Mick

[Willie]

IMO, the safest and least expensive solution would be 3 X 100 W heaters. None of them getting stuck could overheat the tank. If one dies, the temperature will not drop too much.

Willie

[JamesW]

IMO, the safest and least expensive solution would be 3 X 100 W heaters. None of them getting stuck could overheat the tank. If one dies, the temperature will not drop too much.

Willie

I use 2 x 150W Eheim controlled by an inkbird controller on 90 gallon + 30 gallon sump. They keep up even when house is set to 55 during vacation in winter.

[brewmaster15]

I use all kind of heaters here, and generally do as many here do and stack up smaller ones verses one big one.. I subscribe to Willie's Philosophy on the failures being minimized.. I do have one gripe that anyone buying heaters needs to consider... The CORD Length!! Why can't they give you a decent cord length. I get saving costs but jeeze would it hurt to give customers a good 6-8 Ft cord. Its not like you want to use extension cords. Some of us have tanks scattered everywhere.. First thing I check now when I am considering a heater is the Cord. Yes I want the inside of the heater built well but it doesn't do me any good if I can't place the heater on the bottom of the tank horizontally and have enough cord to reach the power source and actually use the heater! :crazy:
al

[dagray]

I use two of the Fluval E300 heaters in my 75 gallon tank. I was using just one and the tank would cool down to 78 or lower at night, and I like to keep the tank at 82-84. Adding the second heater and putting both by high flow areas (filter returns) the tank stays a constant temperature.

[Megalodon]

I use two of the Fluval E300 heaters in my 75 gallon tank. I was using just one and the tank would cool down to 78 or lower at night, and I like to keep the tank at 82-84. Adding the second heater and putting both by high flow areas (filter returns) the tank stays a constant temperature.

I find they Fluval Es work a lot better if you remove the plastic guard. It's not always practical though.

[Greg5OH]

I was abotu to post some of my heater frustrations.
125g tank and at night ambient temp drops to about 62, with a max of 72 during the day. I like to keep the tank at 84.
I had an old old jager recently die, the tstat still worked and lthe light worked, but it did not actually heat. More recently a 1 year old fully submersible jager is also doing the same! only th every very bottom of the heater gets luke warm. Tstat cycles but heating element does not work. Tank is barely maintaining 82 right now on 1 300w aquaen heater which stays on 247 as a result..terrible for my power bill.
i bought a second "gen 2" aquen heater, but the internal temp sensor is crap as it hardly turns on. I cranked it to 88, and it only turns on when tanks drops to 81.5.
I verified my water temp in the heater locations with 2 water thermometers and a laser temp gun...81.5 and 82 both times....
So I am looking for a quality, accurate, and dependable heater. So many amazon reviews are a mixed bag of 5 and 1 star.
5 being best heater ever, have been using it for a week, to 1 star it stuck on and cooked my fish...

[Cove Beach]

I have been using Jaeger heaters for years on my reef tank, but have never relied on the heaters temp control. I Have always used a controller to handle the set point. So when I switched to Discus and their higher temp requirement, I increased my heaters from 2-250 watt units to 2-300 watt and 2-250watt units to keep the 400 gal system in check.The 300s are set at 90 deg, and the 250s at 86 to limit temp spikes if the controller fails in the on mode. All of the heaters are tied to an Apex unit which holds temp +/- 1 deg at most. Also I find having the digital temp readout next to where I feed the fish at forces me to be very aware of any changes. The Apex will also graph the temp cycle an show if I lose a heater. Some may say overkill but consider the time and money invested in our fish.....

[Greg5OH]

Do you mind posting a link to the controller?
To control the heaters you have (which have an internal thermostat), you basicaly "overset" them (higher than you would keep the water) so they default to ON, and then use the external controller to manage them yes?
I do agree, these fish are alot of time and money, and last thing you want is some 40$ heater wiping out 1000$ worth of fish.
My greatest fear are-filter hoses splitting and pumping my family room with 125gallons of water, and 2) heaters sticking on and boiling my guys

[Adam S]

My favorite: https://www.amazon.com/RANCO-ETC-111000-Digital-Temperature-Control/dp/B0015NV5BE

Very reliable, but you need to wire it and waterproof the probe.

Cheaper, ready-to-use controller: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Electronic-Temperature-Germination-Controlling/dp/B01486LZ50

Already wired with a waterproof probe. You want this model if using two heaters.

[Paul Sabucchi]

I find the German made titanium heaters by Schego are bombproof BUT...I doubt you can get them outside Europe and you need a separate Temperature controller

[DJW]

I have one of these on every tank, very reliable. You can run up to about 1200 watts of heaters on each controller.

https://www.amazon.com/KETOTEK-STC-1000-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B073QQ2VP2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1546630070&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=heater+controller+stc+1000&psc=1

Mine are Celsius only, but you can get them with Fahrenheit...

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Fahrenheit-Thermostat/dp/B00BMLCGF8/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1546629928&sr=1-6&keywords=heater+controller+itc+1000

Wiring is required, but its not hard.

[5ZVP]

I made my own controller using the STC-1000 as the main unit

[Phil4Discus]

I used to have 2 300 what eheims, but didn't like the way they looked in the tank so I recently made the move to 2 Fluval E series on my 125 gallon tank. They blend in well with my black background and they get the job done. I have them connected to an inkbird controller as well.