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Tefloncat
12-10-2019, 09:24 PM
Please explain the problems with your fish. When did you notice the problems and did anything unusual happen that you think started them?
Noticed today, pair are breeding, removed from DT 6 days ago

2. Symptoms (i.e. turning dark, excess slime, not eating, clamped fins, flashing, darting, clamped gills, white/yellow/green poop, hiding, headstanding or tailstanding, white on tips of fins, rotting or fungus, blisters/white zits on fish, bloated, cloudy eyes, wounds).
Appears healthy for breeding dark, fecal matter solid brown, healthy appetite, definitely guarding brood, fins normal with exception of the white spot.

3. What medications/ treatments have you already tried and what were the results. Include dosage and duration of treatment.
His mate is being treated for HITH disease with
metronidazole 500mg/day qd for 10 days.
Have tried nothing else due to free swimming fry (not sure what they can and can't tolerate)


Tank/Water

4. Tank size and ages, numbers and sizes of fish.
40 gallon breeder, tank is divided other side has breeding pigeons. All fish are 5-6" maybe slightly bigger

5. Water change regime (What percentage and how often).
50%/daily plus 5 gallons after each feeding to clean bottom.

6. How long has tank been running? Is it bare bottom? If you have substrate, what type and how deep is it?
Tank has been running in garage with only java ferns, aerator, internal moving bed filter with K1 micro biomedical. Brought in house last week did NOT clean.

7. Do you age your water? If you do for how long and what is the ph swing.
Water is ro/di (150 gallons/day) with aeration and heated to 86⁰f

8. What type/brand water conditioner do you use? Do you add it to the tank or aging barrel? How much do you use?
API STRESS COAT plus used when using tap 1ml/gallon

9. Parameters and water source;

Note: Water Parameters are important in diagnosing problems within a tank. If you don't own test kits for the following information, you can purchase them, test your parameters and post this info as soon as possible.


- temp -84.9

- ph -6

- ammonia reading 1ppm (yes 1 rpm and I'm not understanding why)

- nitrite reading- 0ppm

- nitrate reading <5ppm

What type of water or combinations of water sources do you use? If it is an RO/tap/well water mix, please list percentages in the mix.

- well water ____

- municipal water ____

- RO water straight but add 1/4 tsp Rift Lake salt


10. Any new fish, plants or inverts added recently.
Were previously in 100 gallon planted DT and were breeding weekly (and stressing themselves hence females HITH...at least my theory)


11. Please tell us what you feed your fish and how often. This can be critical information for solving the problem so be as specific as you can.
Currently 3 times/day straight bloodworms, they WILL boycott, drop their fins go in corner and sulk. I'm not kidding


12. Include any pictures or videos you have which shows the symptoms. If you can't add them to this post, please provide a link to them.

danotaylor
12-10-2019, 10:44 PM
Looks like a discus pimple mate....is it on the fin or body though? Usually as a result of <ideal water quality...my discus would get them anytime I slacked on wc's and let the nitrates be consistently >10. Lots of clean water and a little salt, like 2-3tbsp/10 gal will fix it.

Tefloncat
12-10-2019, 10:58 PM
Thanks, I was thinking the ammonia could have been my problem, I perform at least 50% wc plus 5 gallon after each feeding, and ammonia is still high after wc. It comes out of the ro/di barrel as pH 6, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, tds 0 and yet the tank has high ammonia, granted 4 discus (and many fry) at 5” and close to 7” in a 40 gallon breeder = 10 gallon/fish and they get pimples? That’s better than fungal infection....I think.

Tefloncat
12-10-2019, 10:59 PM
Oh and it is on the pectoral fin, not the body.

Tshethar
12-11-2019, 12:40 AM
I've never worked with a moving bed filter, but if you're showing ammonia it seems it isn't keeping up with the bioload, or was disturbed enough during the move to need some time to recover. Anything you can add, such as a sponge filter or an HOB, to help take up the slack?

Tefloncat
12-11-2019, 03:46 AM
I added 2 sponge filters (for 80 gallon each) 1 of the filters was in the DT’s sump. The ammonia really has me worried I had 0.25ppm in my DT with 100% wc via awc device. I think I’ll ask in another thread in the appropriate part of the forum.

Second Hand Pat
12-11-2019, 08:32 AM
I added 2 sponge filters (for 80 gallon each) 1 of the filters was in the DT’s sump. The ammonia really has me worried I had 0.25ppm in my DT with 100% wc via awc device. I think I’ll ask in another thread in the appropriate part of the forum.

Hi Eric, are you using a dechlorator? RO units may not remove chlorine etc.
Pat

Tefloncat
12-11-2019, 08:40 AM
Yes it has 2 carbon blocks

Second Hand Pat
12-11-2019, 08:44 AM
Yes it has 2 carbon blocks

and they are rated for removing chlorine?
Pat

Tefloncat
12-11-2019, 09:32 AM
Hey Pat,
There are 2, and both are 0.5 micron
======================================
NSF Certified
Specifically formulated for superior Chloramine reduction
05µm (micron) Nominal Filtration*
Chlorine 35,000 @ 1 GPM**
Chloramines 3,500 @ 0.5 GPM***
High chemical adsorption
30% more carbon than standard blocks****
======================================

Mando
12-11-2019, 09:42 AM
Prime helps detoxify the ammonia until your tank can catch up again.

Second Hand Pat
12-11-2019, 10:20 AM
Hey Pat,
There are 2, and both are 0.5 micron
======================================
NSF Certified
Specifically formulated for superior Chloramine reduction
05µm (micron) Nominal Filtration*
Chlorine 35,000 @ 1 GPM**
Chloramines 3,500 @ 0.5 GPM***
High chemical adsorption
30% more carbon than standard blocks****
======================================

Hi Eric, How old are the carbon blocks? Maybe they need to be replaced? Also Armando has a good point on using Prime.
Pat

Tefloncat
12-11-2019, 05:28 PM
Thanks gentlemen, my ro/di is 7 stage (1 depth filter, 2 carbon blocks, 2 ro membranes, and 2 deionize filters), the blocks are 4 months old, and I've already change the 1 micron depth filter once, so maybe. I'm shocked if that's the case because Portland, OR is famous for being some of the best water straight from Bull Run. Our house is from 1992 I can't imagine the plumbing would have enough sediment to go through 2 depth filter and then 2 carbon blocks. I have a friend who works for Portland Water Bureau he's into aquarium too. He may have an idea, too

Tefloncat
12-11-2019, 05:36 PM
Oh, I just started using Prime last night and threw in a bunch of biomedia from DT into breeder tank. As a side note, the tank looks like snow globe. Both pair of discus's fry are free swimming today, both pair had a large brood.