Need some help with my KH

[Charlyc11]

I am looking for some advice and help getting through my water problem. Maybe somebody that has had this issue or a water expert specially well water.
I been trying to control my PH due to low KH in my well water. Water from the well has a KH of 0, or best case one (one drop yellow). GH is good at 5-6. The PH is at 5.5 and after 24 hrs. or less. with an air stone, circulating pump and heat the PH jumps to 7.5, If add to the tank it will start dropping at the tanks. Also I don’t like to add water at that PH to a tank that the PH is at 6.74 that (it’s gotten down to 6.2). Right now my discus tank is at 6.94 after water change with adjusted aged water. I tried to get as close I can get within .4. This is not a good solution long term and I think my fish are suffering for it.
I think I need to raise the KH after its filled and see where if stabilizes and target that PH for my tanks.
Input is appreciated

[RogueDiscus]

Hi Chuck,
I bet your well water is quite different than many other well users. Mine is extremely hard, high KH. So you have no carbonate buffer for the biologic processes to consume. I think folks will say the pH rises as it ages as CO2 is off-gassed. In your tank, the nitrification process is making it more acidic, setting up for pH crash eventually. You probably know all this, folks will correct me if I'm wrong. I think baking soda, sodium bicarbonate is frequently used to add carbonate. Also, I've heard of crushed coral, calcium carbonate, being used.

[Charlyc11]

Yesterday wile doing a water change on my 75 g tanks I added 2 cups of crushed coral to my FX4's.

Water in my aging tank PH 7.3 after 24 Hrs. KH 0.

Water in tank #1 before WC 7.04 KH 0
Water in tank #1 after WC tested this morning PH 7.25 KH 2

Water in tank #2 before WC 7.11 KH 0
Water in tank #2 after WC tested this morning PH 7.22 KH 2

I was surprised how quick the KH went up, some of the powder in the coral must not have wash off and gave the KH a quick boost I will monitor to see how it holds up. The PH is a bit higher that I would like but I can live with it and it might still go a bit higher. The 2 20 G tanks their was no difference yet since it's just a bag in the corner of the tank and it would take a lot longer to raise the KH. I ordered some old school corner filters that are sponge and media stones encased in plastic so I can replace some of the media for crushed coral and can be more effective.

132981

[bluelagoon]

All you need to do is adjust the amount of coral if you find it raises too high. I only have a half cup in a ladies nylon stocking in a 76 gal. My water is soft like yours and depletes it's KH, PH holding power in a few days. More so if I feed heavy.

[Charlyc11]

All you need to do is adjust the amount of coral if you find it raises too high. I only have a half cup in a ladies nylon stocking in a 76 gal. My water is soft like yours and depletes it's KH, PH holding power in a few days. More so if I feed heavy.

I will keep an eye on it and reduce as it rises. How much did you get it to rise with that amount?

[bluelagoon]

It just stays more stable at 6.8-7 ph. Yours might be a bit different from different elements in the water. Mine comes from the lake to the water plant at 6.2-6.4 and leaves the plant at about 7.2-7.4. After aerating and aging it is 7.2; no drop with aging. But I have to age because of micro bubbles and gets dangerous/does stress the fish if I do more than a 25-30% WC from the tap. I usually do 80% or more on my WC's.

[LizStreithorst]

What about adding straight Calcium Carbonate Powder instead of crushed coral? That way you'd be able to control the dosage. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K43MRKO?th=1

[Charlyc11]

What about adding straight Calcium Carbonate Powder instead of crushed coral? That way you'd be able to control the dosage. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K43MRKO?th=1

No mater what I do the PH is going to rise so If I can find a good dose with the coral I would prefer it. I do have calcium chloride on hand that I bought to Remineralize RO If needed but I never used it. I don't know about the calcium bicarbonate. I just want stable PH that when I do a WC I don't have to worry that it will change next day.

[Charlyc11]

Hi Chuck,
I bet your well water is quite different than many other well users. Mine is extremely hard, high KH. So you have no carbonate buffer for the biologic processes to consume. I think folks will say the pH rises as it ages as CO2 is off-gassed. In your tank, the nitrification process is making it more acidic, setting up for pH crash eventually. You probably know all this, folks will correct me if I'm wrong. I think baking soda, sodium bicarbonate is frequently used to add carbonate. Also, I've heard of crushed coral, calcium carbonate, being used.

I know my water is way different and I don't know why they added a water softener the TDS is at 190, KH 0, GH tops 6. I also have a soda ash dosing pump to raise the PH for the whole house but that takes the KH to 8-9 and a PH of 7 + and that is temporary. If you let that age the PH will go through the roof. I might get an acid neutralizing filter that uses calcite for the house not very expensive but I wonder how effective they are.

[LizStreithorst]

They are basically the same thing:

People also ask
What minerals are in crushed coral?
Coral skeletons that make up crushed coral consist of calcium carbonate, which helps increase your aquarium's pH level up to 7.6 without the use of any chemicals. If you wish to increase the pH level further, all you need to do is either add crushed coral to your filter or simply drop a handful of it on the tank base.

[bluelagoon]

The crushed coral releases calcium slowly rather than at once like the bottled or powered stuff does. That is the biggest difference.

[Charlyc11]

How about the wonder shells anybody use them?

[jeep]

I don't know why they added a water softener.

So the water you're using for your fish comes from a softener and not straight from the well?

[Charlyc11]

So the water you're using for your fish comes from a softener and not straight from the well?

I bypass the softener right from the well. I ran I pipe after the sediment before the softener. Also for time being I put my softener on bypass to se how it affects my dishes and glasses .

[jeep]

And your water is still that soft... wow! Good move on the bypass. Softened water isn't all that good for discus...

[Charlyc11]

I use water directly from my well.
API Test Kit
TDS 190
PH No aging = 5.5
PH after 24 Hrs. aging = 7.3
Ca =20 PPM
Ammonia = 0
Phosphate = 0
Iron = 0
GH = 6
KH = 0 one drop light yellow second test Kit same

I have a Nutrafin Master Test Kit that I will confirm all later today. Then again I been testing my well water a zillion times.

[bluelagoon]

I wonder if your well water is cold and when it warms up to the air it releases the CO2 and increases the PH.

[Charlyc11]

I though I had the problem solved with crushed coral in the tanks but here comes an emergency like treating the marlboros for HEXA. I did a large water change after the first dose of metro and a few hours later I looked at them saw that the were breathing heavy so I checked the ph and it was crashing. Needless to say the ph was ok in the holding tank 7.40 and 7.3 in the fish tank. I slowly added some baking soda to stop the downfall got it up a little and hopefully it will continue to adjust as the crushed coral does the job. Smaller water changes on the other tanks no problem so far but a 75% water change for the metro treatment not so good. I added some coral to the holding tanks in the hope the starting low 5.4 ph will dissolve enough to stabilize. Last resort would be to go RO and remineralize. If anybody has a go way to do that please let me know or a proven recipe of the shelf or DIY.

Just looked at the and they are still breathing heavy maybe some epson salt would help?

Update:
Just ran a full workup of the water and it seems I lastly cycle on that tank after the water change and adding metro or when the PH crashed. High on nitrites that why they where in distress. I added some prime and I have some nitrite pads but I don't know if that will interfere with the metro or cycle even more. Any suggestions?

[bluelagoon]

Just one thing, if you think it's a nitrite issue. Sodium chloride for nitrite poisoning would be better than magnesium sulfate.

[Charlyc11]

I did a water change this morning and the nitrites when down to almost zero along with the ammonia and nitrate. It went back up some later on. I been dosing with prime to detoxify and I been adding stability and waiting for my delivery of Fritz turbo start to get a real boost on the cycle. So far they started eating and I saw some normal poop. I am into the third day of metro so tomorrow they will get another large water change.

[Charlyc11]

Just one thing, if you think it's a nitrite issue. Sodium chloride for nitrite poisoning would be better than magnesium sulfate.

I don't think it was nitrite poisonings since I was starting to treat for Hexa when the PH crashed and went into a mini cycle and the nitrites shot up. It looks like it's recovering from the mini cycle almost no nitrites and 0 ammonia yesterday but still dosing with prime. Today I should receive my order of FrizZime Turbo Start so I can make an add and make sure the tank gets cycled. We will see I never used the product but heard good things about it.

[Charlyc11]

Today I got my FritzZime turbo start and after a 70% water change I added the 2 oz needed for my tank. I hope it does what it's suppose to do that stuff is very concentrated. It clouded my tank for at least an hour but now it's clearing up. They look happy:D

[Charlyc11]

I kinda resolved the KH issue by doing a few things. Crushed coral in the tanks and in the aging barrels. But beside that I buffer the aging barrel when I fill with Seachem alkaline buffer and after aging with acid buffer to zero in on 7.3 and a KH of 3-4. So far so good but time will tell. That's with water from my well no RO. I did try RO but that's more work for the same results.

[bluelagoon]

Not sure if I'm reading your post correctly. Are you using both alkaline and acid buffers?

[Charlyc11]

Not sure if I'm reading your post correctly. Are you using both alkaline and acid buffers?

Yes that's how you can target the PH you want I am trying to achieve in the area of 7.3ish with a KH of at least 3 and after aging with the Alkaline buffers it sits on 7.9ish . That's per Seachem instructions. I haven't been able to just use the Alkaline alone but still trying. If I don't buffer my water the PH will crash at the tank.
I am going for that PH target so I don't deviate to much from what they been exposed to. Might eventfully leave it at that higher PH but will need to raise it slowly. Just time will tell how consistent the alkaline only buffer is.

133020

133021

[LizStreithorst]

Does it list the ingredients?

[bluelagoon]

Get rid of the acid puffer if using an alkaline buffer. You won't get it stable that way. It's bouncing around too much. Does the containers say to use both; if so I've just learned something new after 50 years of fish keeping.

[Charlyc11]

Does it list the ingredients?

Just what you see

[jeep]

Get rid of the acid puffer if using an alkaline buffer. You won't get it stable that way. It's bouncing around too much. Does the containers say to use both; if so I've just learned something new after 50 years of fish keeping.

I agree with this. The goal is ph stability, not a certain number. I know discus keepers who have stabile ph in the mid 6's. Mine is 8.3.

[Charlyc11]

I agree with this. The goal is ph stability, not a certain number. I know discus keepers who have stabile ph in the mid 6's. Mine is 8.3.

My problem is KH not PH I have zero. Am I better of with a KH+ product instead of a alkaline buffer? Suggestions?

[jeep]

Well, I haven't had the need to adjust these things, but the people I've worked with in the past use either crushed coral as you are, or they remineralize with a mineral based cocktail. There are recipes here on the forum, mainly for reconstituting RO water. While I think the right usage of crushed coral would increase your kh, it would be nice to use something more beneficial to the fish than just ph stability. I'll look around and see if I can find some of these recipes. They don't just adjust kh/gh, but they create an ideal mineral base that discus need.

At this point, I would have to say yes, a KH product seems better in your situation than a simple alkaline buffer, especially if using an acid buffer as well. It kind of reminds me of an ex-roommate who kept his window air conditioner and space heater on at the same time. All he did was increase my electric bill by 300% while achieving the same temp as the rest of the house, lol... Also, using acid buffers can be very tricky and even dangerous. I have a friend who used it successfully for a long time, then one day something happened and he burned his fish alive.

Another thing to consider would be calcium chloride as least one ingredient. I've used this in the past to correct dorsal fin defects in fry. I never measured the kh when using this but I'm sure but was raised and my goal was achieved. The form I use is better known as Prestone Driveway Heat, it's 100% calcium chloride. Add a little epsom salt for magnesium is beneficial as well.

There are products out there that will increase kh and stabilize ph but they can be costly over time. Making your own concoction is much cheaper in the long run with the exact same results. https://www.amazon.com/Continuum-Aquatics-Alkalinity-Stabilizer-Freshwater/dp/B01C5L5JX4?th=1

[LizStreithorst]

I would think so. Do you have the ingredients in the kH+ product?

[jeep]

This video is pretty long but it may help as well when you have time http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?135532-Understanding-water-kh-and-gh-WATCH-when-you-have-time!!

[Charlyc11]

Well, I haven't had the need to adjust these things, but the people I've worked with in the past use either crushed coral as you are, or they remineralize with a mineral based cocktail. There are recipes here on the forum, mainly for reconstituting RO water. While I think the right usage of crushed coral would increase your kh, it would be nice to use something more beneficial to the fish than just ph stability. I'll look around and see if I can find some of these recipes. They don't just adjust kh/gh, but they create an ideal mineral base that discus need.

At this point, I would have to say yes, a KH product seems better in your situation than a simple alkaline buffer, especially if using an acid buffer as well. It kind of reminds me of an ex-roommate who kept his window air conditioner and space heater on at the same time. All he did was increase my electric bill by 300% while achieving the same temp as the rest of the house, lol... Also, using acid buffers can be very tricky and even dangerous. I have a friend who used it successfully for a long time, then one day something happened and he burned his fish alive.

Another thing to consider would be calcium chloride as least one ingredient. I've used this in the past to correct dorsal fin defects in fry. I never measured the kh when using this but I'm sure but was raised and my goal was achieved. The form I use is better known as Prestone Driveway Heat, it's 100% calcium chloride. Add a little epsom salt for magnesium is beneficial as well.

There are products out there that will increase kh and stabilize ph but they can be costly over time. Making your own concoction is much cheaper in the long run with the exact same results. https://www.amazon.com/Continuum-Aquatics-Alkalinity-Stabilizer-Freshwater/dp/B01C5L5JX4?th=1

I happen to have a jar at home I bought it way back when I was thinking RO reconstitute. They don't spell out the ingredients. I also have calcium chloride and Epson salts and I have seen baking soda on some recipes.

[jeep]

The won't provide ingredients. They don't want you to know how easy it is to make it yourself, lol...

Do you have an extension office in your area that could analyze your water? It may help you create the perfect mix...

[Charlyc11]

The won't provide ingredients. They don't want you to know how easy it is to make it yourself, lol...

Do you have an extension office in your area that could analyze your water? It may help you create the perfect mix...

There is a local lab that is state certified. They are a well company and I think I paid them to do testing when I purchased the hose in 2015 but no big reed out on contents just acceptably of the well. Will look in my paperwork and see what I have.

This is what the test for according to there web site:
Our laboratory can test for the the following:
Bacteria
Hardness
Nitrates as N
Nitrites as N
pH
Chlorides
Turbidity
Lead & Iron
Metals
Radon
Radionuclides
VOC (including MTBE)
SOC (pesticides and herbicides)

What other test we need I have for calcium, Iron, phosphate, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. Plus the GH and KH.

[jeep]

I see several methods on the web. The easiest is calcium chloride, epsom and baking soda. This sounds good but not ideal. Other ingredients can be a source of iron, and zinc and potassium chloride. You can play with the amounts to make the perfect recipe but start small, or buy it pre-made but like I say, it can get expensive over time. Don't be concerned if ph raises to +8 as long as it's stabile.

[Charlyc11]

I see several methods on the web. The easiest is calcium chloride, epsom and baking soda. This sounds good but not ideal. Other ingredients can be a source of iron, and zinc and potassium chloride. You can play with the amounts to make the perfect recipe but start small, or buy it pre-made but like I say, it can get expensive over time. Don't be concerned if ph raises to +8 as long as it's stabile.

I have also a jar of Continuum Aquatics Flora Viv Reconstitute RO I can give it a try with that and RO on a separate tank and see how it goes. They also have it in a liquid.

https://smile.amazon.com/Continuum-Aquatics-Reconstitute-Freshwater-Aquariums/dp/B01C5LJMD2/ref=pd_di_sccai_cn_sccl_1_1/142-8673329-7009755?pd_rd_w=9CpYX&pf_rd_p=1ed8df3a-0df8-4988-98b9-252e4c99c568&pf_rd_r=WYPG4W3FCN6JGQF5EMG8&pd_rd_r=f2138b3c-a58d-454d-aa01-52cec9d526db&pd_rd_wg=8RYhW&pd_rd_i=B01C5LJMD2&th=1

[Charlyc11]

I see several methods on the web. The easiest is calcium chloride, epsom and baking soda. This sounds good but not ideal. Other ingredients can be a source of iron, and zinc and potassium chloride. You can play with the amounts to make the perfect recipe but start small, or buy it pre-made but like I say, it can get expensive over time. Don't be concerned if ph raises to +8 as long as it's stabile.

Brian
I have a question, to reconstitute RO do you age it and if you do you make your adds before or after aging? I would think that you make your adds and let it age see where it sits after 24 hrs. Correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks

I guess this summer my Tomato plants are going to get tank and RO waste all piped to the garden.

[LizStreithorst]

I bet some Asian expert would know how to raise kH using a home made mix.

[RogueDiscus]

How about the right kind of rock that would slowly contribute Ca?

[RogueDiscus]

Just looking at this thread from the start again. Your water needs to be aged to allow it's inherent pH to stabilize. Then it can be used as is (maybe w/ prime) as long as you have good biological filter media (sponges) and you change water regularly. I think you are going down the rabbit hole of constantly throwing in chemicals to get something that may not be necessary.
So don't shoot me, but I'm sure others will have comments.

[jeep]

Brian
I have a question, to reconstitute RO do you age it and if you do you make your adds before or after aging? I would think that you make your adds and let it age see where it sits after 24 hrs. Correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks

I guess this summer my Tomato plants are going to get tank and RO waste all piped to the garden.

I would add minerals then age. This will allow everything to be fully dissolved and give true readings.

[Charlyc11]

Just looking at this thread from the start again. Your water needs to be aged to allow it's inherent pH to stabilize. Then it can be used as is (maybe w/ prime) as long as you have good biological filter media (sponges) and you change water regularly. I think you are going down the rabbit hole of constantly throwing in chemicals to get something that may not be necessary.
So don't shoot me, but I'm sure others will have comments.

I been there tried that PH crashes unless I replace the water every day. I do age my water 55 gallon barrel and 55 gallon tank.


I would add minerals then age. This will allow everything to be fully dissolved and give true readings.

Thanks Brian nobody specifies that tidbit when they talk about reconstruing RO.

[Charlyc11]

This video is pretty long but it may help as well when you have time http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?135532-Understanding-water-kh-and-gh-WATCH-when-you-have-time!!

I did watch it a few days ago.

[Charlyc11]

Ok last night I filled the 55 gallon barrel with RO and my starting point was a PH of 5.8 and a TDS of 10. I added 22 grams of Continuum Aquatics Flora Viv Reconstitute RO per the instructions, somehow I think that they are wrong. I weighed 1/2 a teaspoon and it weighs at least 4 grams (not 2 grams per label) so I dosed on the low side and used the grams not teaspoons measurement. I used the second recommended dose of 1 teaspoon (used 4 grams per 10 gallons). This morning after 8 hrs. TDS=170 PH=7.20 GH=3 KH=1 (one drop yellow). So it looks like I hit the Discus target but that was not what I was going for since the majority of the fish I have are PBR's and ABN plecos. The Discus pair will adopt to their parameters but what I got now is kind of real soft so I don't know how well the Rams and plecos will do. I will wait the full 24 hrs. and se were it lands. Also if the PH will stick and not drop with a KH=1.

Here is what they say on the back label.

Basic: Dissolve 2 grams, about 1/2 teaspoon of product for each 10 gallons (38 L) of aquarium capacity for initial tank set up or for water used for water changes, for Discus and other soft water fish. Use 1 teaspoon for angelfish, bettas, barbs and general freshwater fish and 2 teaspoons for goldfish and koi, Central American cichlids, and live bearers such as swordtails, platies and mollies. Advanced: Discus and other soft-water fish normally require 80 to 130 ppm total dissolved solids (TDS) or 1 to 3 degrees GH and mixed freshwater fish normally require 160 to 230 ppm TDS or 3 to 6 degrees GH. Consult a book for the correct TDS (total dissolved solids) and GH for the type of fish you are keeping. This product alone is sufficient for soft water aquariums. If your fish require harder water, you should measure both TDS & GH, because GH only measures hardness ions such as calcium and magnesium and doesn’t measure monovalent ions; while TDS measure all ions in solution. This product will raise TDS more than it will raise GH and Flora Viv GH+ will raise GH more than it will raise TDS. When used together in desired proportions, both products allow for a wide range of parameters suitable for any freshwater or brackish aquarium. Do not greatly exceed the dosage recommended for the type of fish you are keeping. Caution: Keep out of reach of children. Not for human consumption. If ingested drink water, contact a poison control center. If in eyes flush with water.

[jeep]

I think you're on the right track. I wish we knew exactly what's in that stuff. Once you establish stabile parameters you may want to begin experimenting with your own recipe.

I don't know how ABN's and Rams will be affected by your new water but I don't think it will be harmful. I keep an ABN in discus breeder tanks sometimes. I use RO to bring TDS to 80 for spawning then immediately switch to straight tap water with a TDS of around 400 and they do fine with the changes. I haven't bred Rams yet but the spawning conditions are similar to discus.

[Charlyc11]

I think you're on the right track. I wish we knew exactly what's in that stuff. Once you establish stabile parameters you may want to begin experimenting with your own recipe.

I don't know how ABN's and Rams will be affected by your new water but I don't think it will be harmful. I keep an ABN in discus breeder tanks sometimes. I use RO to bring TDS to 80 for spawning then immediately switch to straight tap water with a TDS of around 400 and they do fine with the changes. I haven't bred Rams yet but the spawning conditions are similar to discus.

I started breeding rams so I remove the eggs and they go in straight RO with MB for 48 hrs. close to wiggler stage they go back to tank water with the parents.

[LizStreithorst]

"If ingested drink water, contact a poison control center."

How can a poison control center help if there are no ingredients listed? On the other hand since it instructs you to drink water it can't contain anything really harmful.

So far this seems to be the best solution you have come upon. I don't see why the water you make with this stuff could be bad for rams or Discus.

[Charlyc11]

"If ingested drink water, contact a poison control center."

How can a poison control center help if there are no ingredients listed? On the other hand since it instructs you to drink water it can't contain anything really harmful.

So far this seems to be the best solution you have come upon. I don't see why the water you make with this stuff could be bad for rams or Discus.

If this works out the do sell large containers in powder and liquid. I order a 500 ml bottle to see the economics of each but they should be the same liquid would be easier. The cost is not to much higher


Product Description
Reconstitute RO is a high quality, multi-component, broad spectrum mixture of all mineral ions including General Hardness (GH), alkalinity (KH) and all major, minor and trace minerals required for optimum health and longevity of freshwater fish, invertebrates and plants. When mixed with filtered water prepared by reverse osmosis, distillation, or deionization, it will convert those filtered waters into a natural environment in which all aquarium inhabitants will thrive. It has been used to raise discus and other freshwater fish, as well as keep whole systems in breeder, public and home aquariums. Reconstituting reverse osmosis, deionized or distilled water ensures complete user control over aquarium water parameters. Treating purified water with Reconstitute RO allows the user to customize hardness and alkalinity for the type of fish you’re keeping. This is especially important when keeping and breeding sensitive or expensive species such as discus or wild caught fish. Using reconstituted purified water will also help solve many aquarium keeping water quality issues and prevent the entry of unwanted nutrients such as phosphates that are prevalent in public water supplies.

Directions
Shake well prior to use: Add 1 capful, about 1 teaspoon of product for each 5 gallons ( 19 L ) of aquarium capacity for initial tank set up or for water used for water changes for Discus and other soft water fish. Use 2 capfuls for angelfish, bettas, barbs and general freshwater fish and 4 teaspoons for goldfish and koi, Central American cichlids, and live bearers such as swordtails, platies and mollies. Advanced: Discus and other softwater fish normally require 80 to 130 ppm total dissolved solids (TDS) or 1 to 3 degrees GH and mixed freshwater fish normally require 160 to 230 ppm TDS or 3 to 6 degrees GH. Consult a book for the correct TDS (total dissolved solids) and GH for the type of fish you are keeping. This product alone is sufficient for soft water aquariums. If your fish require harder water, you should measure both TDS & GH, because GH only measures hardness ions such as calcium and magnesium and doesn’t measure monovalent ions; while TDS measure all ions in solution. This product will raise TDS more than it will raise GH and Flora Viv GH+ will raise GH more than it will raise TDS. When used together in desired proportions, both products allow for a wide range of parameters suitable for any freshwater or brackish aquarium. Do not greatly exceed the dosage recommended for the type of fish you are keeping. Caution: Keep out of reach of children. Not for human consumption. If ingested drink water, contact a poison control center. If in eyes flush with water.

[Charlyc11]

There are products out there that will increase kh and stabilize ph but they can be costly over time. Making your own concoction is much cheaper in the long run with the exact same results. https://www.amazon.com/Continuum-Aquatics-Alkalinity-Stabilizer-Freshwater/dp/B01C5L5JX4?th=1

I been working with this product with my water right from the well and I did a couple of 50 gallon tests. Adding 1 gram per 10 gallon seem to bring my KH=2 and TDS 220 PH=7.50 Ish. Trying to see if it's repeatable and constant. So far so good.

[Charlyc11]

Wile I am in the subject of water I have been working on one of my 75 gallon tanks that's getting a constant .25 + of ammonia but not quite .5 on the API test Kit. This tank was perfectly cycled since last year with not a single issue and always a PH in the range of 6.89+ and now with all my water issue is at a 7.4. I am not saying this is part of my KH problem but when it rains it pours. I been adding Seachem Stability and some Prime to detoxify. I also switched to FritzZime Turbo Start to no avail. I also think adding the prime might delay getting the cycle back on track. So I also decided to check my ammonia with Fluval Nutrafin Master test kit. This kit is a bit more involved and has also a chart the shows when the ammonia is toxic based on PH. See chart below I am in the 1.2 range where if you check my pH of 7.4 is still on the green zone. I guess it's not good but not toxic but I will still strive for 0. I did add a few more fish since the cycle was stated but for a 75 gallon it should be OK and under stocked. I been feeding 3 times a day and cutting back to 2. The fish don't look stressed and eat good.

15 neon's
7 Rams
3 ABN's
3 Snails
I ordered some Tetra safe start Plus since FritzZime did nothing and it's expensive.
133032

[bluelagoon]

I have read someplace that Prime could effect the cycle because it will bind up oxygen after it runs out of ammonia. Also I think Prime can give false readings on water tests. I would just use the Seachem Stability.

[jeep]

I've also heard it could affect the cycle but it would have to be way overdosed. It can give false positives. The chemical compound still exists in the tank, it's just been detoxified. the same for heavy metals...

Just for the record, I use Prime at 1/2 dose. Always have...

[Charlyc11]

I've also heard it could affect the cycle but it would have to be way overdosed. It can give false positives. The chemical compound still exists in the tank, it's just been detoxified. the same for heavy metals...

Just for the record, I use Prime at 1/2 dose. Always have...

I always heard how safe it is for double dosing never 1/2 dose I will try that out. I guess it's still effective. Right now I am following the chemistry that's telling me that at my PH and temperature the amount of ammonia that I have is still safe and mostly non toxic. The fish seem in good health and tolerate these levels but I don't want this long term I need to get it to zero.
On another note I been working with the Continuum KH+ on my tap and it's been holding steady between 7.3 and 7.4 PH an a KH of 2 so I find that's the simplest way without RO. That said I have also making daily water changes due to the one Marlboro tank still not finished with the Hexa treatment and the other 75 G has the Ammonia issue. That will soon stop and go on a regular 2 times a week 50% scheduled water changes.

[jeep]

Please don't take my statement about Prime as a recommendation. I've never posted it before and I really shouldn't have mentioned it now because I don't want everyone to do it just because I say its ok. I actually started dosing 1/2 quite by accident. Everyone's water and circumstances are different and it just happens to work for me.

[Charlyc11]

Please don't take my statement about Prime as a recommendation. I've never posted it before and I really shouldn't have mentioned it now because I don't want everyone to do it just because I say its ok. I actually started dosing 1/2 quite by accident. Everyone's water and circumstances are different and it just happens to work for me.

Not taken as a recommendation and at the moment I am not using any at all as long as I can stay in the safe zone.

[LizStreithorst]

Chuck, do you think that a kH of 2 is high enough? I don't know a lot about this but I believe that you want a reading of 3 unless you are doing WC every day. I'll be happy if I'm mistaken.

[Charlyc11]

Chuck, do you think that a kH of 2 is high enough? I don't know a lot about this but I believe that you want a reading of 3 unless you are doing WC every day. I'll be happy if I'm mistaken.

For now I been doing daily 70% water changes but I have the crushed coral in the filters also. I will start adding a little more slowly I don't want to raise the PH to quick. I am at 7.4 and have some ammonia in the 75 G Ram tank (.25 or less after water change a little more before) so the higher the PH the more toxic it becomes.
I have Been adding bacteria trying for zero but not there yet. But yes I think 3 should be the minimum to keep it stable.

[jeep]

Chuck, do you think that a kH of 2 is high enough? I don't know a lot about this but I believe that you want a reading of 3 unless you are doing WC every day. I'll be happy if I'm mistaken.

I tend to agree. He's still experimenting but I think the goal should be a bit higher in the long term. I've been helping someone who recently experienced a bad ph crash and loss of biofiltration with a kh of 2. But, they were on vacation and someone else was taking care of things. No telling what else may have contributed...

[Charlyc11]

I tend to agree. He's still experimenting but I think the goal should be a bit higher in the long term. I've been helping someone who recently experienced a bad ph crash and loss of biofiltration with a kh of 2. But, they were on vacation and someone else was taking care of things. No telling what else may have contributed...

Like I thought the KH in the aging tank is 2 but the tanks are at 3 since I have the crushed coral in the filters it up it one notch. I am trying to see if I can increase it at the aging tank.

[Charlyc11]

My two issues seem to be low KH and a lot agitation with air pump the well water raises the PH temporarily. Is this CO2 outgassing?
My tap has a metering pump injecting soda ash to safeguard the pipes and appliances, no water softener (I am not using it bypassed).
PH = 6.8 – 7
KH = 9
GH = 6
TDS = 300
Bypassing the soda ash.
PH: 5.5
KH = 0
GH: 6
TDS = 190
If I run a pump and air stone for 24 Hrs. without the soda ash adjusting system that I use for the whole house the PH shoots up from 5.5 to 7.8 at a KH of 0. But if I run just the circulating pump no air it doesn't go up as much. That 7.8 will start dropping creating a very unstable PH. So for now I been adding some backing soda when I fill so my PH has been high with an end point of 7.8ish PH and KH = 1 - 2. (Temporary solution)
I been running a few different tests.
50/50 mix, 2.5 gallons from my tap (soda ash system) with 2.5 gallons of RO. This morning it was PH = 8, KH = 5 and GH = 3.
I also filled one 55 gallon drum (actual gallons 57) with 22.8 gallons (40%) from my soda ash system and 34.2 gallons (60%) RO and had the pump circulating only. The PH started at 6.75 KH of 4 (when full) and this morning the PH was at 6.86 TDS = 140. I turned on the air feed to the pump head and I will check when I get home this afternoon how much does it go up.

[Charlyc11]

This is where I stand today.

1) If I fill the 55 gallon drum (57G actual) with 25 gallons of well water that get injected with soda ash. I top off the tank (32G) with RO water with a TDS of 10 ppm. After aging 24 hrs with a circulating pump with air hose attached. PH=8, GH=3, KH=4 and a TDS=170

2) If I fill the 55 gallon drum (57G actual) with 20 gallons of well water that get injected with soda ash. I top off the tank (37G) with RO water with a TDS of 10 ppm. After aging 24 hrs with a circulating pump with air hose attached. PH=8, GH=3, KH=4 and a TDS=120