franktx
12-08-2022, 01:37 PM
I posted my info on another "Sticky post" but was informed would be best if I made my own post.
My Experience with fishkeeping has been mainly cichlids and community tanks since around 1990ish.
I recently as of about 4 days ago purchased a tank setup with 6 5"-6" Discus and have been trying to crash course myself with information mainly on SimplyDiscus and some Youtube.
Previous owner raised them from quarter dollar size
Tank is Bare Bottom 110 gallon drilled Bowfront with 40 gallon sump, sump has 3 sections drains into filter media and sponge/Bio Balls and air stone /Return.
air sponge in tank,. Green Kiling maching UV sterilizer .1 main heater 1 backup heater both in the overflow section of the tank and Inkbird controller
Currently feeding beef heart frozen cubes 1 cube 2x daily. sometimes freeze dried bloodworms (they dont seem to like as much)
Current Tank Water parameters;
Temp 82
PH 6.8 (TDS 315) (hauled water in Brute cans when purchased previous owner used straight Tap)
Ammonia reading 0
Nitrite reading 0
Nitrate reading 25 was 50 right after the move and before the 2 WC's
Tap Water parameters; (Not aged or dechlorinated)
Ph 7.8
TDS 150
KH 80
TA 180
GH 25
Chlorine 3.0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
My Municipal water from their website
Calcium ppm 2.191
Iron ppm 0.05
pH units 8.55
Sodium ppm 226
Total Hardness ppm 8.781
75% RODI / 25% Tap mix Water parameters;
PH 7.3
TDS 37
100% RODI with Seachem Equilibrium, Acid and Alk buffers
PH 6.8
TDS 150
Water changes planned percentage and how often are yet to be determined I Have done 2 water changes since purchasing and moving, First WC was with the 100% RODI with Seachem Equilibrium buffer . Second WC with RODI/Tap mix.
I do plan on aging water with heater and powerhead but not yet determined if I should use straight tap ,tap/RO or Seachem Equilibrium,Seachem Acid,Seachem Alk mix.
Currently crash course researching what my safest ,best procedure, percentage, schedule and water parameters (Use tap, RODI/Tap mix or RODI Seachem buffers) need to be so I dont screw up.
Should Heaters be kept in the return section of the sump?
Should I just stick with straight tap water changes from here on out to keep consistency and not have to deal with buffers and RO water?
will the fish be ok with the jump of water parameters between thier current and my straight "aged and warmed up" tap water ?
My Experience with fishkeeping has been mainly cichlids and community tanks since around 1990ish.
I recently as of about 4 days ago purchased a tank setup with 6 5"-6" Discus and have been trying to crash course myself with information mainly on SimplyDiscus and some Youtube.
Previous owner raised them from quarter dollar size
Tank is Bare Bottom 110 gallon drilled Bowfront with 40 gallon sump, sump has 3 sections drains into filter media and sponge/Bio Balls and air stone /Return.
air sponge in tank,. Green Kiling maching UV sterilizer .1 main heater 1 backup heater both in the overflow section of the tank and Inkbird controller
Currently feeding beef heart frozen cubes 1 cube 2x daily. sometimes freeze dried bloodworms (they dont seem to like as much)
Current Tank Water parameters;
Temp 82
PH 6.8 (TDS 315) (hauled water in Brute cans when purchased previous owner used straight Tap)
Ammonia reading 0
Nitrite reading 0
Nitrate reading 25 was 50 right after the move and before the 2 WC's
Tap Water parameters; (Not aged or dechlorinated)
Ph 7.8
TDS 150
KH 80
TA 180
GH 25
Chlorine 3.0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
My Municipal water from their website
Calcium ppm 2.191
Iron ppm 0.05
pH units 8.55
Sodium ppm 226
Total Hardness ppm 8.781
75% RODI / 25% Tap mix Water parameters;
PH 7.3
TDS 37
100% RODI with Seachem Equilibrium, Acid and Alk buffers
PH 6.8
TDS 150
Water changes planned percentage and how often are yet to be determined I Have done 2 water changes since purchasing and moving, First WC was with the 100% RODI with Seachem Equilibrium buffer . Second WC with RODI/Tap mix.
I do plan on aging water with heater and powerhead but not yet determined if I should use straight tap ,tap/RO or Seachem Equilibrium,Seachem Acid,Seachem Alk mix.
Currently crash course researching what my safest ,best procedure, percentage, schedule and water parameters (Use tap, RODI/Tap mix or RODI Seachem buffers) need to be so I dont screw up.
Should Heaters be kept in the return section of the sump?
Should I just stick with straight tap water changes from here on out to keep consistency and not have to deal with buffers and RO water?
will the fish be ok with the jump of water parameters between thier current and my straight "aged and warmed up" tap water ?