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View Full Version : Discus-Rummynose colors, water qualilty, stress level



ak
12-24-2002, 05:57 PM
I have either got mixed answers or I have misinterpreted information regarding color of rummy-nose and discus. I would like to reach out to you guys to once and for all get a proper understanding.

1. Does the red of rummy-nose become more red or less if water quality goes down or if there is increase in stress level?

2. Likewise, with discus. Do the colors become darker with increased stress? Can this even be an indication?

I am new to discus and have 2 blue-diamonds and 1 wild. The bds are almost identical to the one on your main page, but juveniles (2 1/2"). Just got home and noticed that the bds had turned very dark (almost blackish purple). Did a 10% water change and they seem tohave regained their normal color. The question here is, was the water change necessary and was it even the reason the discus regained their color? Also, not to let the wild discus feel left out, he too appears to have now got a more neutral color from the earlier dark.

Thanks for your help.

12-24-2002, 06:14 PM
Rummy Nose Tetras...the nose is very brightly colored in good water conditions and if they fade then there is a problem somewhere ( they can fade when stressed or threatened).

Black is not good for Discus...usually means a problem.

What are water parameters?
What size tank?
What other fish are in tank?
How long has tank been set up?

The more info the easier it is to help.

I am by no means an expert, learn something new every day :)
HTH

DHDiscusMan
12-24-2002, 06:27 PM
Blackish discus are stressed. Check water params and temp. See if you can safely do more water changes.

Good luck to you.

Dan

ak
12-24-2002, 07:20 PM
Here is the tank setup:
72 gal planted with home made co2 setup.
temp 84 deg Far.
tank is 2 months old.
fluval 404 canister filter
9 rummy nose, 9 neon tetras, 2 cardinal tetras, 2 corys, 1 otto
1 wild discus and 2 blue diamonds.
got wild discus a month ago. bds 3 days ago.

ammonia:0, nitrites:0, pH 7.3

btw. just dissolved a tablespoon of aquarium salt in a glass of water and added it to tank. Plan to add a table spoon solution every other day for the next 5 days. Just read that it helps in stress and gill functioning.

Just observed again and noticed that both bds now show a sky blue color and are coming to the front of the tank with the wild discus. The amber in the eye has started to show.

Wolf
12-24-2002, 11:30 PM
You may get lucky this time but always quarantine new fish. They also may be a little shy as 3 discus is a small group to keep as babies. They do better in groups of at least 5 fish.

Carol_Roberts
12-25-2002, 02:01 AM
Be careful of the co2. We have had discus die from lack of oxygen recently on the forum. CO2 also can drop the pH and cause pH swings. Do you have an airstone or airdriven sponge filter in the tank - might be a good idea. You can also have the outlet of the fluval be above the water line so it cascades into the tank like a mini waterfall.

Dark discus = stress.
Light discus swimming to front of tank = happy discus
Something was wrong with the water. 10% is a tiny water change - I'm betting oxygen levels.

Carol :heart1:

ak
12-25-2002, 07:32 PM
The Blue Discus are still dark and are ocasionally scrapping against leaves. Their color is almost like the picture in Wolf's posting. I am treating them with a cap full of aquri-sol daily. The CO2 flow has almost stopped and I am not going to restart it till the discus feel better.

Also, typically is it OK if Discus do not eat for a few days in a new tank.

Thanks all,

Carol_Roberts
12-25-2002, 09:04 PM
It may take several days for them to settle in and eat heartily, but juveniles should be at least picking at food by second or third day.
Carol :heart1:

ak
12-27-2002, 11:56 AM
I didnt mean to just vanish. Was just waiting to see if the bds were really doing better before making a post. It's been over a day and they have rarely turned dark. After the lights are off they do tend to become dark. However, as soon as light comes in the room they start getting light. Anyways, looks like they have settled in and have started to pick at food. Not really eating but I'm sure they will start soon.

There is still another question. I am having trouble keeping the ottos and plecos alive. Since the tank has been setup (2 mths), I have had 4 ottos, 1 golden algae eater and 1 rubber lipped pleco die. Can anyone tell me why this may be happening? Can temp be an issue? or could it be the ick medicine. I'm surprised that the cardinal tetras are doing great and the ottos etc. are dying. If I dont do anything about this soon, I am fearing an algae outbreak and that could become another problem. Any ideas?

Smokey
12-27-2002, 02:29 PM
ak; very observant.
One measurement you have not reported is the NITRATE levels. Could you .
It seems , to me, if one fish is diying, and then another, it may be a health issue; if the water is in good condition.
ICH medication is oxiding , and if the oxygen levels were low to begin with, this may have contributed to their demise.
The ich bacteria gets in to the gills of fish , and literially sufficates the fish. WATER CHANGES, lots of water changes, good aireation, and vacumn the tank.
As you have proberly discovered, it is difficult to medicate in a planted tank. If possible, can you set up a hospital tank. this will allow you to be more percise with the med's. and allow you to observe the fish behaviour.
Keep us posted!

Smokey