store water

[henryD]

My order from Big Al finally came. I got a water pump. (thanks for the tip Carol). So i went to Walmart to buy one of those tubs that fit in the bath tub. I decided against just using the tub for a couple of reasons. 1. the soap and scuds, preserving heat, dust and dirt from no cover.

Any way, I wanted to know what else I need to add to the store water. Should I add an air pump? The Ph out of the tap is around 7.8. I store it for 24 hours and the water was still 7.8. I do have a 55 gallon tank that is cycling and it has 1 canister filter and 2 sponge. After 24 hours that ph is also 7.8. So not sure if I need to do anything else to the water. gh 0. Kh 1.

Also because the water seems to maintain temp pretty well I have not added a heater. started off with 84 and after 24 the temp of the water is 81-82.

I did buy an RO/Di and will have to tackle that problem when I get it.

[Carol_Roberts]

If your GH is 0 and KH 1 you do not need an RO. The main purpose of an RO is to lower your GH and KH. In fact you may have to add minerals to stabilize your water and keep your pH from crashing. If the pH of your tap is the same as your tank you do not need to aerate your water. (you lucky dog)

[Smokey]

Kyppyk - I agree with Carol - you have great water... is this right out of the tap/city water???
The numbers for the gh/kh - have you confirmed these numbers; three repeated tests. I ask, because they seem low for natural/city water.

Stored water - it's a good idea to add an air stone; just to aireate the water and drive off any dissolved gasses, [ chlorine, etc.]. Water in moition is healthier and is more lively!
As for the pH, leave it where its at. For adults, it will be fine. However, for breeding and fry hatching/growth.. you may want to lower the pH . This is where a r/o unit may help.

On the other hand - running the tap water through a large ''PEAT'' filter first - will lower your pH, plus add natrual tannins to the water.

My storage container is an old 55 gallon tank; repaired a number of times. I feed the tap water through a large peat filter - 4 gallons of peat - into the storage tank and aireate the he#$ out of the water, as it fills. I add the de-chlornizer/ammonia remover at the start. It takes about 45 minutes to fill the storage tank. I make sure the temperature is the same as my discus tanks. The water is then ready to use for water changes. Say 30%. When i do the larger w/c's - 60 - 75%, I do let the water sit for a few hours/or days. Just to be sure all dissolved gasses are gone.
The natural peat tannins, in the water, seem to have a calming effect on the discus. They think they are hiding!!! lol.

Even as the stored water cools; over time, adding in small quanities does not bother the discus.

P.S.- the discus tanks are set up with over-flows and a 25 gallon sump. They are all flow through design. The larger amount of water has a stabilizing effect, minimizing sudden changes.

hth.

Smokey

[henryD]

I thought the test was pretty low. I was using one of those chemical kits last night cause I could not find my new meter. Well after find it. I did several test. Turns out 125 for ppm. and 259 for us. It still looks good though so I will probably leave it the way it is.

I do turn the water over with my pump for 30 minutes before I do the water change. My question is it ok to add a little hot water for w/c so my store water is the same temp as my tank? I did buy an RO/DI already so I will do a mixture.

As for peat, I did use it the first time I kept discus a long time ago. But since then I have shy away because the tanin turns the water dark. I know it is more of a cosmetic thing. I think the fish enjoys it though so maybe I will go back to it.

[Smokey]

Kyppk - yes, those numbers sound more realistic.
O.K. if you do use a large peat filter ( 4 gallons of peat treats about 90 - 100+ gallons) you will find the pH drops to about 6.5, and the gh/kh drops to 15 and 5ppm repectfully. Even after sitting for a day the water remains at 6.8 and the gh.kh is stabel.
I suggest you moniter the ''peat filtered'' water until you are comfortable with the parameters. The peat will become exhausted!!!!
On a personal note.. I shut dwon my large R/O UNIT and went with the peat filter. A little more work( empting the exhausted peat), but less costy than replacing the carbon filters on the r/o unit.

I agree with your coment -- tannins turn the water dark -- but who am I to argue with my discus. They like it...The tannins also difuse light, which calms the discus..

Believe me when I say --- the tank can be totally blacked out-- and the damn discus will still find me when they want to be feed!!!!

lol.. no really, they know where i live.

Smokey

[Carol_Roberts]

Yes, you can add some hot water to your storage tank (not the fish tank)to increase the temperature.

[Liz_Streithorst]

I know this is an OLD conversation, but I've finally found someone who has water like mine. Henry, yours is gH0, kH1 ms 259? Mine is gH 0, kH5, mS 260. I'm curious if you ever used the RO unit and if it had an affect on the conductivity? I'm using peat filtration and it has lowered my conductivity to the 150 range.

Liz