FOR DUNCAN

[CARY_GLdiscus]

Well heres what it looks like duncan homemade wet/dry filter system

it pumps 700gph.

[Northwestcoastdisc]

Hey Cary, looks so COOL. Can you tell me where is start for water run? I would like to make same as your systems for my hatchery!

thanks
Duncan.

[April]

Cary can you come and build me a fishroom in your free time? : )

[peteypob]

GEEEEEZZ! Thats massive!

[gary1218]

Cary,

What are you using as your bio media?

GARY

[CARY_GLdiscus]

Hi gary,
in each 55 tank I'am useing bioball,Sponge and Chem Beeds.

Duncan the water is pumped up from the bottom far right 75 gal cube tank over to the other 75 cube tank and the 40 long it also pumps up to all 29s then back thur the filter system.

[Discus_KC]

A quality system built by a super guy !!!!

[jeep]

Cary, don't be giving Jack any ideas :D

[Lance_Krueger]

Cary,
I know you're busy, but a few questions if you don't mind:

1. What are the advantages/disadvantages to having your breeders on a central system? Water Params more stable with low PH?

2. Why do you still have sponges in each tank? In case you take one off the system? If you would take one off of the system, would you just shut off the return water valve to that tank?

3. What do you do about using an anti-fungus agent like Formalin (or Meth Blue) to treat the eggs after they are laid? Or do you not do this?

4. How do you do water changes? Manually? Flush? Or overflow on the wet dry? Could you tell the procedure you go through when water changing this system?

5. Are you dripping in RO? I see you have an RO unit hooked up to the back wall, but it's hard to tell in the photo where the product water goes, and the waste. Could you elaborate.

6. It looks like you've got a couple of pinpoint meters hooked up too. Would that be a Ph meter and a conductivity? These are to check the water params only, and aren't controlling anything, right?

7. Where are your heaters? In the wet dry? Or in each individual tank?

8. Do you have breeder pairs in the 75 cubes, and 40 long? Does the higher flow bother the males ability to fertilize the eggs?

9. Finally, please correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm trying to understand how your system works. From what I can tell from the photo, each 29 has a standpipe to a bulkhead in the back/middle of your tank, which the water overflows into. Then there is pvc line that attaches to each bulkhead below each tank, and takes that water to the top wet dry and uses a sprayer bar (or trickle plate?) to distribute the water over the bio balls, which then overflows into the bottom wet dry. This cleaned water then drains below the two 75 cubes and then comes up through the bottom/front of each of these tanks through a bulkead in the bottom of these tanks. Then in the far right 75 cube, there is a Mag Drive 700, which is submerged in the tank water, and returns the water upward. It comes to a Tee, which takes some of the water to the left to the leftward 75 cube, and the 40 long (how and where do these drain/overflow to?). The majority of the water flows past the tee to a fill line above the 29's, which are adjusted with some type of valve.
Would that be a fair description of how this system works, or are there errors in my thinking? If so, please correct me, as I am trying to understand how all this plumbing stuff works.What sizes of PVC do you use in the various parts of the system, and why?
Alright, I know that was more than a "few" questions. But any info, however little, would be appreciated! Very interesting setup you have there.
Lance Krueger

[Northwestcoastdisc]

hi Lance



1. What are the advantages/disadvantages to having your breeders on a central system? Water Params more stable with low PH? I think its a good idea help them good quailty water and long stable.

2. Why do you still have sponges in each tank? In case you take one off the system? If you would take one off of the system, would you just shut off the return water valve to that tank? In the case one of fish sick or fry or something will turn off valves when they are takeing care of fry when the fry are getting old enough and free swimming are strong then turn on back to help the good quailty water will not build up ammonia, nitrate, etc. When discus sick turn off till the sick discus get better turn on valve.

3. What do you do about using an anti-fungus agent like Formalin (or Meth Blue) to treat the eggs after they are laid? Or do you not do this? I am sure he will do that when they laid eggs he will turn off valves and treat for anit fungus.

4. How do you do water changes? Manually? Flush? Or overflow on the wet dry? Could you tell the procedure you go through when water changing this system? I have no idea I dont have like this, He will answer.. I believe its possable yes It flush do w/c about 20% to 30 % every day.

5. Are you dripping in RO? I see you have an RO unit hooked up to the back wall, but it's hard to tell in the photo where the product water goes, and the waste. Could you elaborate. my water is really very LOW hardness I dont need RO :D For Cary yes he needs RO for his water needs soft for breed. My answer yes.

6. It looks like you've got a couple of pinpoint meters hooked up too. Would that be a Ph meter and a conductivity? These are to check the water params only, and aren't controlling anything, right? yes he needs to check make sure everything water is correct.

7. Where are your heaters? In the wet dry? Or in each individual tank? the heaters are in all breed tank behide PVC pipes and in 75 gallon tanks.

8. Do you have breeder pairs in the 75 cubes, and 40 long? Does the higher flow bother the males ability to fertilize the eggs? could be what I think he is going pair up. maybe i am wrong.


I hope my answer are correct.

Duncan

[CARY_GLdiscus]

Cary,HI LANCE
I know you're busy, but a few questions if you don't mind: NO PROBLEM.

1. What are the advantages/disadvantages to having your breeders on a central system? Water Params more stable with low PH? WELL FIRST OFF THE ADULTS ARE EASYLY MOVED AROUND FROM TANK TO TANK FOR TESTING BREEDING ABLITIES AND FOURCE PAIRING. OTHERS THINGS WOULD ALSO INCLUDE STABLE WATER PARMETERS + CLEANER WATER WITH A LESS BIOLOAD MEANING LESS W/CS AND BETTER HATCHOUTS BECAUSE OF LOWER BIOLOAD WITHOUT THE USE OF FUGUSIDES. aLSO ANOTHER GOOD THING IS WHEN THE DISCUS FEMALE BEGINS TO BREED SHE RELEASES PHARMONES INTO THE WATER TO ATTRACT A MATE WELL IT JUST DOES NOT ATTRACT MALES BUT FEMALES TO AND I BELIEVE THIS PHARMONE INDUCES OTHER FEMALES TO BREED TO! oFCOURSE wE KNOW A GOOD MALE DISCUS IS ALLWAYS READY TO GO LOL! THE BAD THING SO FAR IS MAKEING SURE THE FOODS YOU FEED SINK FAST OR THEY CAN TRASH THIS SYSTEM VERY FAST. OTHER THINGS WOULD INCLUDE LOSS OF FRY IF YOUR NOT CAREFUL.

2. Why do you still have sponges in each tank? In case you take one off the system? YES THIS WAY WE DO NOT LOSS THE FRY INTO THE FILTER. If you would take one off of the system, would you just shut off the return water valve to that tank? YEP SHUT VALVE OFF AND LET THE SPONGE TAKEOVER.
EACH TANK ALSO HAS ITS OWN HEATER.

3. What do you do about using an anti-fungus agent like Formalin (or Meth Blue) to treat the eggs after they are laid? Or do you not do this? NO NOT AT ALL I DO NOT USE IT HOWEVER A FEW WEEKS BACK I HAD TO BECAUSE THE OVER USE OF BEEFHEART THAT WAS NOT BINDED VERY WELL. SO ALL I DID WAS SHUT THE TANK OFF FOR 24HRS ADDED 1 DROP OF HYDE PER GAL AND THE NEXT DAY TURNED THEM BACK ON AND IT WORKED FRY HATCHED
ALL WAS WELL.

4. How do you do water changes? Manually? Flush? Or overflow on the wet dry? Could you tell the procedure you go through when water changing this system? WELL TO BE HONEST I HAVE IT SET UP ALL 4 WAYS. I CAN FLUSH IT
DRIP IT, PUMP IT, AND DRAIN IT WITHOUT THE FILTER EVER STOPPING. THIS IS DONE BY USEING LOTS OFF SHUTOFFS AND TEE'S TO MAKE THE WATER GO WERE YOU WANT IT AND WHEN.

5. Are you dripping in RO? I see you have an RO unit hooked up to the back wall, but it's hard to tell in the photo where the product water goes, and the waste. Could you elaborate. WELL AT TIMES MY PAIRS BECOME BOARED OF THE PLAIN OLD TAP AND AT TIMES MY Ms IS MUCH TO HIGH FOR VERY GOOD HATCHOUT SO R/O IS USED. AT THE TIME I HAVE IT OFF AND IT COULD STAY OFF FOR ABOUT A WEEK. WHEN i DO USE IT I DRIP THE R/O RIGHT INTO THE SYSTEM I ALSO DRIP IN THE WASTE WATER TO BUT I ALSO CONTROL THAT SO I CAN KEEP MY Ms AROUND 150 THE REST OF THE WASTE IS PUMPED TO MY PLANTED TANK AND OTHER GROWOUT DISCUS TANKS.

6. It looks like you've got a couple of pinpoint meters hooked up too. Would that be a Ph meter and a conductivity? These are to check the water params only, and aren't controlling anything, right? YEP I USE A CONDUTIVTY METER AND A PH METER I ALSO HAVE A CONTROL ON THE R/O UNIT ITSELF THIS TELLS ME THE PPM GOING IN AND COMEING OUT.

7. Where are your heaters? In the wet dry? Or in each individual tank?
EACH TANK OF WATER HAS ITS OWN 50 WATT HEATER ONLY THE CUBE 75s HAVE 200 WATT heaters.

8. Do you have breeder pairs in the 75 cubes, and 40 long? Does the higher flow bother the males ability to fertilize the eggs? YES IT WILL BUT THESE TANKS ARE FOR PAIRS THAT NEED A REST I USE THE 40 TO TEST GOOD MALES. THE FLOW ON THIS TANK CAN BE CONTROLED.

9. Finally, please correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm trying to understand how your system works. From what I can tell from the photo, each 29 has a standpipe to a bulkhead in the back/middle of your tank, which the water overflows into. Then there is pvc line that attaches to each bulkhead below each tank, and takes that water to the top wet dry and uses a sprayer bar (or trickle plate?) to distribute the water over the bio balls, which then overflows into the bottom wet dry. This cleaned water then drains below the two 75 cubes and then comes up through the bottom/front of each of these tanks through a bulkead in the bottom of these tanks. Then in the far right 75 cube, there is a Mag Drive 700, which is submerged in the tank water, and returns the water upward. It comes to a Tee, which takes some of the water to the left to the leftward 75 cube, and the 40 long (how and where do these drain/overflow to?). BACK TO THE FIRST 75 CUBE The majority of the water flows past the tee to a fill line above the 29's, which are adjusted with some type of valve. YEP SO FAR YOUR RIGHT ON THE MONEY!
Would that be a fair description of how this system works, or are there errors in my thinking? NO MAN YOUR DAM GOOD! If so, please correct me, as I am trying to understand how all this plumbing stuff works.What sizes of PVC do you use in the various parts of the system, and why? WELL FOR THE MOST PART THE PUMPS WILL TELL YOU WHAT SIZE LINE TO USE. MY SET IS ALL DONE IN 3/4"
Alright, I know that was more than a "few" questions. But any info, however little, would be appreciated! Very interesting setup you have there.
THANKS MAN!
CARY+FAMILY

[Northwestcoastdisc]

Hi Cary,

It looks great I can get it. I am going start to set up :D Do you use it for your growout tanks?

Can you please take a photo close up your breed tanks where is PVC pipe?

How do they work for clean bottom tank? Do you use vacuum bottom all you breed tank?


Duncan

[CARY_GLdiscus]

Hi Cary,HI AGAIN DUNCAN LOL!

It looks great I can get it. I am going start to set up Do you use it for your growout tanks? YEP ALL TANKS.

Can you please take a photo close up your breed tanks where is PVC pipe? THE PIPE IS 1'' OFF THE BACK WALL DEAD CENTER THIS IS MY BREEDING CONE AND MY OVERFLOW TUBE WHICH RUNS TO THE FILTER.

How do they work for clean bottom tank? Do you use vacuum bottom all you breed tank? WELL SORRY TO YES BUT YES EVERY OTHER DAY I CLEAN THE BOTTOMS.

HTH
CARY GLD!


Duncan

[Northwestcoastdisc]

hi Cary again LOL


that is great information!


I can not wait to see more photo of your grow out tanks! I like your big bio load wet and dry filter systems are much better and less work and no worry about them.

I am going set up 12 tanks of 100 gallon for grow out and rest breed pairs with big bio load wet and dry filter systems. will work for one big bio load wet and dry filter systems for 12 tanks of 100 gallon?

thanks for your help

Duncan

[April]

your such a good son Cary..taking all this time to help others have success and ease of caring for their fish. now..when were you coming to set mine up? lol.
but..i have definitely been learning..how the eggs dont fungus etc with clean water..and how the babies do way better off if i leave water running in and out at all times. maybe one of these days..i could get my system similar..just a few less tanks. : )

[Lance_Krueger]

Hey Cary,
Wow, thanks for that extremely informative response. I have wondered about central filtration for a breeder setup for a long time, but yours is the first I've seen a picture of. The first I ever heard of it was from Jason in Canada. I feel like you've given me a very good education in it. I have individual wet dry's (one commercial unit, and two homemade ones) on my 200, 150, and 135 gallon tanks, so I have a basic idea of how wet/drys work, but have no experience with central systems with multiple tanks. I'm seriously thinking about putting my breeders on a central system just for the breeders, and this info has been very helpful!!!

A few more questions if you don't mind.

In question #1, you say that a disadvantage is: "Loss of fry if your not careful." What do you mean by this? Do they get sucked into the overflow? Or is it something else?

In question #2, you say you have the tank shut off from the central system, and let the sponge filter in the tank filter the water.
Do you have a tank on the central system when baby's are first freeswimming? Or is it shut off the whole time baby's are freeswimming? How many days do you have the central system shut off throughout a breeding cycle? Would this degrade the water quality for the newborn babies? Or could you place a sponge over the overflow while babies are in there to keep them from getting sucked in, and still have the benefits of the central system?

All your other answers were very clear. Thanks!

Another couple of questions.
1). In your breeder tanks, you have a large overflow pipe (looks like 1 1/2" or so), that is converted down to 1/2" or 3/4" into the bulkead. Why do you have it set up this way? Do you want the bigger, upper pipe to be that size for them to lay their eggs on? Or is there another reason? Why choke it down into a smaller bulkead? Is that just the size bulkheads and drill bit you have, or is there some bigger reason why?

2). I noticed some pipe and a red handled ball valve going off to the right of your vertical return water pipe from your Mag 700 (just above the tee going to the other 75 cube and 40). Is this to do water changes (i.e. for draining?), or fresh water to refill the system? I see some other piping running along the floor to the right of the stand. What are these pipes for? Just trying to figure out how you can do four types of water changes, without shutting down the wet dry. Any explanation on how you do that?

3). I noticed in some of the closeups of your breeder fish, that there is a PVC coupling with what looks like an elbow hose barb in the back left corner of each of your breeder tanks. Is that the return (clean) water line from your Mag 700? Do you have that elbow on there to divert the flow from the spawning site (i.e. keeps sperm in contact with eggs longer)? And is it also to move the dirty water at the front of the tank toward the overflow?

4). Any thoughts of how many gallons per hour (or turnover rate) that you want to shoot for in a central breeder setup? How much is too much, and how much is not enough? Also, do you want to have more gallons per hour (turn over rate) for a growout setup that's on a central system of their own? If so, what is the range you want to shoot for?

Thanks again, Cary, for all your help. It is truly helpful! :-)

Duncan,
Thanks also for your thoughts on this. All the more info is helpful.

All the best,
Lance Krueger

[Northwestcoastdisc]

Lancer,

You are welcome,

you had some good questions. We love to learn moreabout this from Cary, He is so excellent stuffs to breed and raise ton beauitful babies discus. I let u know that I have 16 breeding tanks I got 8 true proven breed pairs they are very successful spawn but It lot of work for me and kill me. I like Cary's Wet and dry filter systems are cool and less work for me to do w/c and less messy of wet everywhere. I had lose some fry from 3/4" to 2" after 2" would be fine, It pain in A$$ Also I have 50 tanks it lot of work for me to do w/c drive me so crazy.

April. I got improvement my egg batch hatch rate a lot therefore you need find out how is hardness your water its really important. If it s perfect water therefore you will get lot of hatch rate.

My wild blue male is a great job. He was about 14 months old I got about 100 fry so far no problems I moved here from Victoria.. Victoria and nanaimo water are not same. what I learn and figured out and solved the problem wiht the water. The male did ferited so well but I got hatch so low everybody said that my male is not good. I won't sell my male. He is a great father he had ferited with 4 diffrent female got successful spawn. Now He is 2 years old. The batch is very largest ever i see in my life. One day I will visit you I will bring my water test to find out I will give you my best tip. what I believe that your water and my water are not the SAME.

In few month I will move some where to have more space to start to build up and drill many holes with my tanks and set up big load bio wet and dry fitler system.

Duncan

[Northwestcoastdisc]

Lancer,

I try my answer your questions if its possable correct.

1) If you don't turn off the water system, the fry will go to filter and die as sucked into into filters because fry are very smallest. when the fry grow and bigger stronger swimming then turn on water systems.

2) yes when the water system turn off, Let fry free swimming and attrach the parents for while when they get bigger. The sponge filter can control water cycled. I always use sponge fitlers in my breeding tanks no problems. The sponge filters are back up. If no sponge filters when the water system shut off all fish and fry will die from ammonia spike up! The central system are still running for other breeding tanks to keep clean and alive system.

1) Yes The breed pairs discus like to have more room and comfortable to spawn and get more eggs batch and give good fanning.

2) What I think Its possable for fill up new fresh water in a tank. maybe I am wrong.

3) Its possable you are right. What I think it helps spawn site to keep clean.

4) That is a good question If its follow the rules and works for water system filter.


Hope my best correct answer your questions.

Duncan

[CARY_GLdiscus]

Thanks Duncan + Lance,


In question #1, you say that a disadvantage is: "Loss of fry if your not careful." What do you mean by this? Do they get sucked into the overflow? Or is it something else? LANCE YOUR RIGHT AGAIN! YOU MUST BE CAREFUL OF LOSEING THE FRY DOWN THE OVERFLOW TUBE. DEPENDING ON TEMP SOME FRY WILL GO FREE SWIMMING WITHIN 3 DAYS. NOW THE PROBLEM IS SOME PAIRS TAKE TO THE FRY VERY FAST AFTER THIS STAGE BUT SOME ARE VERY SLOPPY AT IT AND FRY FREESWIM ALL OVER THE TANK. ANYWAYS WHEN THEY FIRST START OFF THEY SWIM FOR THE TOP! NOW IF THE OVERFLOW IS OPEN MOST OF THE FRY ARE SUCKED IN. I TRY TO SHUT THEM DOWN 2 DAYS AFTER THEY HATCH.

In question #2, you say you have the tank shut off from the central system, and let the sponge filter in the tank filter the water. YES EACH TAKE HAS ITS OWN INTERNAL FILTER AND HEATER FOR THIS PURPOSE. OR IF THE MAIN PUMP SHOULD FAIL.

Do you have a tank on the central system when baby's are first freeswimming? NO LANCE THEY ARE MOVED TO A NEW SYSTEM OFF OF THE BREEDER SYSTEM. Or is it shut off the whole time baby's are freeswimming? NO ONCE THE BABIES ARE WELL ATTACHED AND THIS COULD TAKE 1 TO 5 DAYS THE FRY WILL STAY LOW TO CENTER OF THE TANK WITH THE PARENTS. YOU SEE ONCE THE FRY NO THE PARENTS AND THERE SOURCE OF FOOD THEY WILL HANG TIGHT WITH THEM FOR THE NEXT 2 WEEKS. SO YES AFTER ATTACHMENT IS NICE AND SOLID THE TANK IS ADDED BACK ONTO THE MAIN FILTER SYSTEM.

How many days do you have the central system shut off throughout a breeding cycle? ONE TANK AT ANY GIVEN TIME WOULD ONLY BE SHUT OFF FOR A MAX OF 2 TO 3 DAYS Would this degrade the water quality for the newborn babies? NO NOT IF THE SPONGE FILTERS ARE WELL SEED ALL SHOULD GO WELL. Or could you place a sponge over the overflow while babies are in there to keep them from getting sucked in, YES I HAVE TRYED THIS AND IT WORKS FOR A FEW DAYS ITS STILL SOMETHING I DO NOT UNDERSTAND I EVEN USED FINE NETTING. BUT FOR SOME REASON THEY CLOG UP VERY QUICK AND THE TANK OVERFLOWS. I NOW FIND THE SHUTOFF THE BEST WAY WITH MY SYSTEM.

and still have the benefits of the central system? I AGREE LANCE BUT LIKE I SAID ABOVE I CANNOT EXPLAIN!

All your other answers were very clear. Thanks! THANKYOU LANCE

Another couple of questions.
1). In your breeder tanks, you have a large overflow pipe (looks like 1 1/2" or so), YEP 1 1/2" THIS IS THE BREEDING CONE AND THE OVERFLOW FILTER RETURN TUBE.

that is converted down to 1/2" or 3/4" into the bulkead. RIGHT 3/4" Why do you have it set up this way? Do you want the bigger, upper pipe to be that size for them to lay their eggs on? YES SIR YOU GOT IT! Or is there another reason? NO THATS IT BRO! Why choke it down into a smaller bulkead? WELL LANCE TO BE HONEST I'AM JUST WORKING WITH WHAT I HAVE BUT I BET IF IT WAS BIGGER IN SIZE THAT THE TANKS WOULD NOT OVERFLOW WHEN NETTING OR SPONGE IS PUT OVER THE OVERFLOW TUBE. HOWEVER I DO FIND IT TO WORK VERY WELL OTHER THEN THAT! YOU JUST WANT A VERY SLOW FLOW GOING INTO THE BREEDER TANKS ANYWAYS SO WHEN THE THE DISCUS SPAWN THE SPERM IS NOT WASHED AWAY! SO WITH THE FLOW I DO RUN THE 3/4 WORKS WELL.

Is that just the size bulkheads and drill bit you have, or is there some bigger reason why? NO AGAIN RIGHT ON THE MONEY : )

2). I noticed some pipe and a red handled ball valve going off to the right of your vertical return water pipe from your Mag 700 (just above the tee going to the other 75 cube and 40). YES Is this to do water changes (i.e. for draining?), or fresh water to refill the system? YEP THIS IS FRESH TAP WATER RETURN. I see some other piping running along the floor to the right of the stand. What are these pipes for? WELL IF YOU CAN SEE IN THE PICS THE 75CUBES ALSO HAVE BULKHEADS IN THE BACK OF THE TANKS THESES BULKHEADS ARE PLUMMED INTO THE DRAIN LINE SO WHEN I WANT TO DRAIN THE SYSTEM I REMOVE THE BULK HEADS FROM THE TANKS I CAN ALSO REMOVE THEM FROM THE 29S ONLY LEAVEING 20% OF THE WATER IN EACH TANK. Just trying to figure out how you can do four types of water changes, without shutting down the wet dry. Any explanation on how you do that?
WELL FOR THE MOST PART YOU SHUT THE MAIN VALUE OFF THIS LINE CARRIES WATER TO ALL THE TANKS. AFTER THE LINE IS CLOSED ITS CONNECTED TO A TEE AND ANOTHER SHUTOFF. THIS SHUTOFF IS TURNED ON TO DIRECT THE WATER RIGHT TO THE FILTER. SO WHILE THE SYSTEM IS DRAINING THE FILTER KEEPS ON RUNNING. THE ONLY TIME ITS OFF IS WHEN I USE THE MAIN PUMP TO PUMP OUT THE WHOLE SYSTEM FAST!

3). I noticed in some of the closeups of your breeder fish, that there is a PVC coupling with what looks like an elbow hose barb in the back left corner of each of your breeder tanks. Is that the return (clean) water line from your Mag 700? YES SIR THATS THE RETURN WATER. Do you have that elbow on there to divert the flow from the spawning site MAN YOUR GOOD! (i.e. keeps sperm in contact with eggs longer)? YES I HOPED THAT WOULD BE THE CASE. And is it also to move the dirty water at the front of the tank toward the overflow? YOU GOT IT!

4). Any thoughts of how many gallons per hour (or turnover rate) that you want to shoot for in a central breeder setup? WELL AT FIRST IT WAS NOT ENOUGH SO I TURNED THEM UP. THEN IT WAS TO HIGH SO I LOWERD THEM BACK DOWN A BIT. ANYWAYS AFTER DRAINING THE WHOLE TANK AND REFILLING IT WITH THE PUMP I WOULD SAY THAT 29 GAL A HR IS ABOUT RIGHT WERE I'AM AT! How much is too much, and how much is not enough? Also, do you want to have more gallons per hour (turn over rate) for a growout setup that's on a central system of their own? YES ON MY 125, THEY RUN ABOUT 259GPH If so, what is the range you want to shoot for?
WELL NOTHING IS ON PAPER ONLY IN MY HEAD IF THE TANKS LOOK DIRTY I TURN THEM UP IF THE FISH LOOK UN HAPPY AND ARE FLUSHED AROUND THE TANK I TURN THEM DOWN THIS WAY YOU CAN ALLWAY ADJUST FOR THE SIZE OF FRY YOU HAVE IN THE SYSTEM. i GUESS THE BIGGEST THING IS ANYONE WITH THIS TYPE OF SET UP WOULD NEED TO EXPERMENT TO SEE WHAT WORKS BEST IN THERE SET UP WITH THEIR FISH.

WELL
HTH
TAKECARE
CARY GLD!

[Willie]

Wow! Envy, envy, envy....

Willie

[Lance_Krueger]

Cary,
THANKYOU SO VERY MUCH!!! For all your time and answers, it is greatly appreciated. I know these were basic questions for you, but were huge nuggets of information for me. Until I read all your answers, I had only a partial idea of how a central system works. Now, I feel confident enough to do it on my own, though I know I'll learn a lot as I put together my system. Thankfully, there's a place like Simply Discus where guys like me can get that kind of information, because I've never seen that kind of great(timely) information in a discus book. And most importantly, there are guys like you out there willing to share the information about how better to take care of these beautiful fish. Thanks for all you do, Cary!
All the best,
Lance Krueger

[Discus_KC]

Cary wants people to succeed !!!!!!That's why he is so valuable to the hobby !!!!!!

Jack

[CARY_GLdiscus]

My Brother From another Mother,

You do what I do for the same reasons! It's easy for someone like you and me to notice the other!

Thanks Jack,Willie,lance + Duncan.

Best Wishes
Cary Gld!

[Northwestcoastdisc]

Hi Cary,

you are always warm welcome!


Thanks Lance for your add about thankful to Cary. I agree with Jack @ Discus KC But you have ton beautiful discus! ;)


I am getting frusrated i has lose so many fry they are 1/2" to 3/4" I tested water is perfect. no ammonia no nitrate, no nitrite.

There is about 15 to 25 fry die but other fry show darker clor and breath so fast also their gills both are open? What i think they have gill fluke?

thanks for your advise me

Duncan

[CARY_GLdiscus]

Duncan,
Have You contacted April or Glenn? How about Jason?

I'am hearing about alot of breeders haveing problems with discus fry in Canada.

This tells Me Water!

HEY! ANYBODY FROM CANADA OUT THERE? WHATS GOING ON?

Gld!

[Barb Newell]

Hi Duncan, have you treated them for flukes with formaldehyde and salt? then move them to a new tank.

Barb

[Northwestcoastdisc]

Hi Cary,

My tap water come out at 6.8 PH 23 TSD, GH and KH ?? in my breed tank with fry are 6.4 PH 168 TSD temp at 84 with sponge filters.

I do w/c at 30% to 50% every day. I feed them Live BBS, Shave bloodworms, Shave BH. for the fry and the parents too.

I have problems with fry after 2 weeks old to 6 to 8 weeks old. I hate to see my fry lose.

Some of batch fry are good survival some batch of fry are not good surival. What I think something wrong with water.. What I think I need to find out oxygen or something else. any your advise me.. I want to follow the basic rules for follow u the tiny fry grow to 2" after 2" fry are no problems.

April and Gleen are the same town but I am living on Vancouver island. April and Gleen's water and my water are not the same.

Jason is living in North Ontario. His water and our water are not the same!. Barb lives in Ontario The water same as your water.


i have been keep in touch with your mom ( April) but I have not connect with Gleen.

Cary, do you have msn or aim we can talk more about this?

thanks

Duncan

[CARY_GLdiscus]

I' am sorry Barb I forgot about the biggest breeder in Canada!

Duncan,
you must start process of elimination try the Hyde treatment and a new move and so on. if that does not help look into a water report. Remember some of Our talks on the phone? Baby discus need more room and more water and more food then We think they need. To be honest it happens to all of us! Even the big breeders lose fry here and there.

IME there are many things You can try! I was talking with jack at discus Kc a few days back and one of the things he was doing when fry died off was he lowered his PH well needless to say this worked for Jack in jacks water and is easy with his setup! Now on the other hand barb and I like the salt + Hyde treatment it works for us in our water and is easy with our set ups!. Like I said above you must find what works for You but the only way to get there is to start that Process.

Believe it or not 99% of the people raising discus fry for their first time Fail more because of water Quality! To much or not Enough Food! To big or to little space to start then any other thing.

Best wishes + hth
Cary Gld!

[April]

well..duncan we lose them at about 5 weeks or so..jason told me if i start to lose them add acriflavin or blue. but i have it figured out that all of a sudden at 6 weeks they eat like pigs..and higher bioload. i have 3 sponges in mine..but if i feed within one hour the ph goes down. now im using aragonite. liz streithorst moved and has same water as me now..she is using it and workign for her. so i have a hose running at all times now into a bucket with aragonite and sponges..and then running from a tap into the tank. and have a siphon running out.so constant water flow at all times. they stay light..and my ph is staying even. Brew sent me a hanna pinpoint meter from randall..and it helped me alot to learn whats going on. test strips didnt tell me. i also use the life bearer on them for a few days at about 4 weeks or so in case of flukes.
your spawns are maybe bigger than me..so maybe your bioload is higher earlier. also i cant keep the water good enough in a 30 gallon tank even for good hatchrate on eggs. so im using a 40 gallon tank for breeding and raising. works way better. belive me..ive lost tons of babies. discouraging.but im getting there.

[April]

even if i turn my running water off for the night they get jumpy and if they see me some have a freak out..fall to the bottom and croak. i must be a very scary looking mother. lol.
if i leave the water dripping at all times..then they are up begging and eating and happy and light.
just about 1.8 inch thickness of water running in and out. ihave mine above my grooming tub..so it canjust drip into the tub.

[Willie]

Don't want to hijack this thread. We should start another one just on the topic of losing frys to gill flukes, etc. Cary and April are suggesting very high amounts of water changes, I think.

Willie

[Northwestcoastdisc]

thanks for share with me and great tip. Yes the fry are move their own tanks

there are largest spawn drive me so CRAZY I was keeping feed them a lot and do w/c a lot between 30% and 50% everyday.

Thanks Barb for your tips.

Thansk Cary bro.

Good luck for everyoene can successful spawn!

take care

Duncan

[Northwestcoastdisc]

Hey Cary,

Can i see photo of w/d fitler sytem for your grow out tanks?

thanks
Duncan