Carbon Block Filter

[JiPrE]

As my hobby is fast expanding, adding new tanks, it only means more WCs and more chores. My normal routine now is putting Amquel on my tap storage barrels to remove chlorine and chloramines if any. As I would need more water for WCs, I am thinking of installing a carbon block filter, or even 2-3 carbon block filters on the inlet line to my barrels. Will these effectively remove chlorines without doubt? Once introduced to the barrels, are they ready for use? or should I let them settle for 24 hours to have the PH stabilize? How about chloramines? I am using this tap water for my grow outs btw. Thanks for your inputs.

[CliffsDiscus]

You will still have to use the Amquel to remove the chloramine. Using the correct carbon block is important also, if using the wrong carbon block
you will notice that the heads of the Discus will start developing PIN HOLES.


Cliff

[JiPrE]

Would you know what kind of carbon block to use? how many microns? what kind of membrane is ideal?

[CliffsDiscus]

I use two Granular Active Carbon filters from Sears and add the sediment filter
in front of the GAC around 10 microns.

[Cosmo]

Cliff,

Any thought regarding which type of carbon is best? Coal, coconut, wood, other ?? I've heard and read that Coal based carbon will absorb more rapidly but that coconut will remain effective longer. I don't use either except except the carbon blocks in my RO unit, but am really curious since I haven't been able to find any definative literature on this?

Jim

[Jeff]

Cliff,

What is the differance with Granular carbon vs the others? I recently switched my carbon beacuse of the pin holes you are talking about. I went with a 25 micron and that looks like it helps.

[tlum]

Cliff,

Yes please, I am facing the same problem. Jeff, would you please let me know what carbon block did you use before and what you are using now.

Terry

[CliffsDiscus]

Hi Jim,
The best carbon that has worked for me is the active granular type, it is super absorption removing most organics. The unit I have is very portable,
I use it on my aquarium services, since most customer I have do not have
a storage tank of water. The filter works by just connecting it to the tap and running the water straight into the customers aquarium, unless its a saltwater aquarium. I have not try any of the others, wood, coconut and etc.
so I can't comments on these. I have tried the Carbon Block as advertised
in some of the mail order distributor, the life span is really short plus costly.

Jeff,
The acitve granular carbon has small granulars like sand that will remove the
organics, the solid block carbon is just that it is not foregiving. By this I mean once the carbon block has reach its MAXIMUM capacity it will start LEAKING
organics matters into you aquarium, your Discus behavior will not be normal,
they may be skittish or sluggish your water may be cloudy, unclear so you do another waterchange but this only adds to the problem till a new carbon is changed. Physical signs are pin holes on foreward, red patches, fin and tail rot and etc.

Cliff

[Jeff]

Thanks Cliff. I have noticed after a short time of usage with my old carbon blocks, no idea what type, the BDs especially had these pin holes. I have since switched a few months ago to Pentek Radial Flow Carbon and I have not seen the pin holes since. Maybe it will take longer to see, I'm not sure. I also went up from a 10 micron to 25 micron carbon.