Replacing a Fluval

[markwill]

OK, so I have pretty much com to the conclusion, based on the following thread, that I'd like to switch to a Aquaclear 500:

http://forum.simplydiscus.com//showthread.php?t=44281

The next question is how to do it. I have recently moved to "tap-based pH" (the only qualifier is that I am now ageing my water) rather than try to manage it through chemicals. All seems well at this point. The pH is a tad higher (around 7.0) so I guess I am a bit more reliant on bacteria than I was at 6.5. With this in mind, I assume my existing Fluval 404 has a decent colony of bacteria. How do I manage a transition from the Fluval to a Aquaclear 500? Should I install the Aquaclear and then run both together until the Aquaclear has its own bacteria? And how would I know when that is complete so that I can remove the Fluval?

BTW, can I assume that the Aquacleae is significantly louder than the Fluval (if for now other reason than its position - my Fluval is neatly buried down behind the tank and is barely audible - one of its strengths). I'm also assuming that a single Aquaclear 500 is all I need (I have a 72 gallon tank).

As a reminder, the whole reason I am changing relates to the high expectation of at least one extended power cut each winter and the problems related to a canister filters when the bacteria die. I understand that the bacteria in something like an Aquaclear can last a lot longer.

Thanks.

Mark

[RyanH]

Hey Mark,

If you are using ceramic noodles in your Fluval, just move them to your A/C. This will give you an instantly cycled filter. I would put them on the bottom and then throw a sponge on top of them.

As far as noise goes, the A/C's hum a little bit but are really pretty quiet.

hth
-Ryan

[markwill]

Hey Mark,

If you are using ceramic noodles in your Fluval, just move them to your A/C. This will give you an instantly cycled filter. I would put them on the bottom and then throw a sponge on top of them.

As far as noise goes, the A/C's hum a little bit but are really pretty quiet.

hth
-Ryan
Thanks Ryan. Out of interest, why on the bottom? Does positioning within the filter make a significant difference (by way of example, the order I have for the Fluval is carbon at the bottom - which I am considering ditching anyway -- and then the "noodles").

Just curious...

Thanks.

Mark

[RyanH]

For no other reason really other than that the sponge helps to hold everything in place.

I would also suggest you get rid of your carbon and rely on your water changes.

[tpl*co]

One thing about aquaclears and power outages though, they often empty when the power kicks off and then run dry when the power comes back on thereby not filtering at all and possibly burning out their motors if not caught in time. (they don't self prime). I don't know if you took this into consideration when you are thinking of ditching your fluval in case of outages. I have a penguin 330 as well as a Filstar xp3 on one of my tanks, it often starts up on it's own without emptying, but lately during water changes I've been having trouble with it also (ever since I put in the extension on the intake).

[tpl*co]

I've got a magnum 350 on one of my tank running 2 biowheels. I'm wondering if I'll have the same problem with bacteria dieing with a power outage? I've got noodles in the canister but mostly it is driving the biowheels which would be fine as long as wet?

[markwill]

One thing about aquaclears and power outages though, they often empty when the power kicks off and then run dry when the power comes back on thereby not filtering at all and possibly burning out their motors if not caught in time. (they don't self prime). I don't know if you took this into consideration when you are thinking of ditching your fluval in case of outages. I have a penguin 330 as well as a Filstar xp3 on one of my tanks, it often starts up on it's own without emptying, but lately during water changes I've been having trouble with it also (ever since I put in the extension on the intake).
Oh - well, that's a bummer! Maybe I am seeing Aquaclear through rose-tinted glasses (the grass is always greener and all that...). I do have a darned good filter today (the Fluval 404) but its potential to pump toxic stuff into the tank after a power cut is, er, disconcerting. Now I see that the Aquaclear have the potential to burn out after a power cut - and then I don't have any filter again. Rock and a hard place...

I am sure I won't be the first to have to deal with the "unhandled" power cut issue (lasts for a few hours but there is no-one around to know about it). Given the issue you have just raised I'm now wondering if there is ANY filter that would handle such a scenario.

All I want to do is keep healthy fish :-)

Thanks.

Mark

[Greg Richardson]

Mark. I would also have a sponge filter in tank. The big one.
This allows you to clean either the AC or the SF instead of remembering which sponge in your AC you cleaned last time. I think the AC and sponge filter is a good combo.

As far as power outages go I live out near Duvall and have had no problem with my AC going back on without being primed.
Only time I've had to prime them is when I do 90% wc below the intake.

[BigDaddy]

Yeah... I can't understand how an Aqua Clear would lose its prime during an outage. The only time mine do is if the water level drops below either the bottom of the intake, or occassionally at the intake joint when I have extensions employed (but very VERY rarely).

[tpl*co]

When I had a power outage like you describe I had aquaclears on one tank and my penguin 330 (without the extension tube) on the other, the penguin started up fine on it's own without draining. I don't know what happened when I added the extra length for the input extention though. I'm hoping I have my bases covered with a magnum 350 and the biowheels though, hopefully it won't have much room for stuff to go bad in it.

Another thing, once I did a water change and forgot to turn my aquaclear back on afterwards, Didn't discover it till the next day and boy did it smell bad and to rinse the sponges several times, so I think even the aquaclears can go anaerobic without power too.

[markwill]

Another thing, once I did a water change and forgot to turn my aquaclear back on afterwards, Didn't discover it till the next day and boy did it smell bad and to rinse the sponges several times, so I think even the aquaclears can go anaerobic without power too.
Thanks. Assuming the water change doesn't reduce the water level below that of the intake, why does the Aquaclear need to be turned off during a water change?

Thanks.

Mark

[Carol_Roberts]

I have several Aqua Clears and have not had a problem with them losing their prime after a power outage . . . . Having a prefilter on the water intake will keep the sponges (and water) inside the aqua clear filter cleaner

[tpl*co]

Yes, I do big water changes and a shorter intake tube, that's why I turn them off and then turn them back on afterwards. The trouble is, when I turn them off, even when the water isn't below the intake, I hear the water drain out of the filter and I need to add water to the box to get it going again. I even had this problem with my smaller aquaclears when the power went on and off.

[markwill]

Another thing, once I did a water change and forgot to turn my aquaclear back on afterwards, Didn't discover it till the next day and boy did it smell bad and to rinse the sponges several times, so I think even the aquaclears can go anaerobic without power too.
Following up from Carol's comment, were you / are you using prefilter sponges?

Thanks.

Mark

[RyanH]

Absolutely.

A prefilter is a very good idea. I use Filtermax III's and I love them. You should run a prefilter on any setup that you decide to go with.

JMHO
-Ryan

[tpl*co]

Canisters, yes I do use pre-filters, HOB, no I don't. Once I did use prefilters on some of my HOB, but depending on the filter, either they didn't fit right or restricted the flow too much (smaller hob). Also, it is a matter of I clean my HOB a lot more frequently since I can access them a lot more readily :)

[markwill]

Well, got my Aquaclear 110 today. Actually, got a pretty good deal ($35). Installing it was a hassle. I have an Oceanic tank with a black canopy. At the back of the canopy are two cutouts for equipment, cables, etc. The size of each cutout is a fraction too small for the width of the Aquaclear. Bummer! So, I've been shaving 1/4" off one side of one of the cutouts - not the quickest job in the world with the equipment I have (the canopy is made of a pretty hardy material!). Anyway, I'll trim a little more this weekend - the canopy JUST fits with the little I managed to shave off this evening. Took me an hour!

I am a little confused by the special "flow regulator system" (interesting marketing - it's basically moving a bit of plastic!!). I move to either extreme and notice absolutely no change in the flow. Does anyone see any significant difference when using this "system"?

Thanks.

Mark

[Carol_Roberts]

The flow regulator does not do much - I ignore it.

Keep the AC's running during the water change or you WILL lose prime.