BIOROCKER wet/dry filter

[john2gs]

* Effectively removes toxic ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate
* Biosurface area equivalent to 1,000 gallons of bioballs
* Innovative design harnesses aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria for complete nitrification


Utilizing cell-pore bioslabs in strategic locations, this is the only wet/dry filter of its kind to provide complete nitrification. Its rocker assembly tilts back and forth to expose the cell-pore alternately to air and water, providing 20,000 square feet of surface area for highly effective ammonia and nitrite removal. BioSlab denitrifying block submerged in sump provides the ideal location for anaerobic bacteria to colonize to convert nitrate into harmless nitrogen gas and water. Works great for aquariums up to 500 gallons and reef aquariums up to 300 gallons. BioRocker Deluxe Kit includes BioRocker, elbow, mechanical filter, diffusion mat, media tray, 4 leveling screws, 1-1/4" flexible hose, 2 large clamps, 9" x 9" x 1" bioslab and a 9" x 9" x 4" denitrifying block, and instruction manual. (Other items needed: pre-filter, 12" wide sump, 500-900 gph water pump, and return line.) BioRocker 300 Deluxe Kit Complete includes everything in the Deluxe Kit plus a 23-1/4" x 13-1/2" x 14-5/8" sump.




Anyone used this before?

is this really the complete filtration system that eliminates both ammonia and nitrites, and even NITRATES?

feedbacks?

[shyvtguy]

John,

Make your sump. Much cheaper, unless you just don't want to fool with making a sump.

[shyvtguy]

Also the only thing that will remove nitrates is a WC. Save your money and build a sump. BTW I gave up my aros. Only discus now.

[Dave C]

I have 3 wet/dry filters running. One came from Lifereef and is beautiful to see. Another is made from a 30g tank with homemade glass walls to separate the media from the pump etc. The last one is a Rubbermaid container with holes drilled in it and a big bag of bioballs sitting in it... the whole thing sits in a 70g acrylic tank that used to be a holding tank for water changes. They all work equally well. There's no magic to wet/dry filters. The size of the biological colony is not dependent on the size or type of media. The effectiveness of the filter is not dependent on size of the filter/sump/media and also seems to have little to do with whether the media is exposed to the air or is submerged.

As an example, the Lifereef filter is servicing one 120g tank and two 55g tanks, the 30g sump services a 180g tank and the 70g sump services two 120g tanks. All are reasonably stocked but have been heavily stocked in the past. Ammonia & nitrite have never registered on any tank with any filter. These filters are gross overkill and make your life very easy. Consider the amount of media in an Aquaclear filter and compare it to the huge amount sitting in your average wet/dry. Or look at the few sponge filters needed to keep a typical 120g tank running. There's no magic to the wet/dry, just set it up and keep the mechanical prefilters clean... you're done. The winner is the guy who spends the least amount of cash on the filter, in my opinion.

[discusdave]

* Effectively removes toxic ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate
* Biosurface area equivalent to 1,000 gallons of bioballs
* Innovative design harnesses aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria for complete nitrification


Utilizing cell-pore bioslabs in strategic locations, this is the only wet/dry filter of its kind to provide complete nitrification. Its rocker assembly tilts back and forth to expose the cell-pore alternately to air and water, providing 20,000 square feet of surface area for highly effective ammonia and nitrite removal. BioSlab denitrifying block submerged in sump provides the ideal location for anaerobic bacteria to colonize to convert nitrate into harmless nitrogen gas and water. Works great for aquariums up to 500 gallons and reef aquariums up to 300 gallons. BioRocker Deluxe Kit includes BioRocker, elbow, mechanical filter, diffusion mat, media tray, 4 leveling screws, 1-1/4" flexible hose, 2 large clamps, 9" x 9" x 1" bioslab and a 9" x 9" x 4" denitrifying block, and instruction manual. (Other items needed: pre-filter, 12" wide sump, 500-900 gph water pump, and return line.) BioRocker 300 Deluxe Kit Complete includes everything in the Deluxe Kit plus a 23-1/4" x 13-1/2" x 14-5/8" sump.




Anyone used this before?

is this really the complete filtration system that eliminates both ammonia and nitrites, and even NITRATES?

feedbacks?

The above product is made by Kent Marine. The meat of the product is what they call the Bio-Slab. It is a product also marketed under the name Cell-Pore.

This can provide aerobic and anaerobic filtration. Bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite to nitrate are aerobic, meaning they use O2 in the process. Anaerobic bacteria are the denitrating type, what convert nitrate to nitogen gas in a non-oxygen environment.

The denitrifying block allows for the establishment of anaerobic bacteria colonies deep in the cell pore structure, and these will remove the nitrates from water.

I believe the main issue with a product such as this would be keeping the cell pore structure from being coated with film and mulm on the outside, which is the main issue for any biomedia, be it plastic of sintered glass. Cell pore is a type of glass, FYI.

It is the equivalent of a piece of wood being coated on all sides by an epoxy sealer. If biomedia gets coated then it becomes inactive, whether aerobic or anaerobic.

If the cell pore is kept open it would probably do a great job at keeping ammonia/nitrites/nitrates a zero, but the main issue for discus isn't nitrate levels, it is removing all the other dissolved organics and bacteria and uneaten food and growth limiting hormones, etc before it becomes an issue for the fish. Nitrates aren't really that big an issue for freshwater or saltwater fish. Saltwater inverts and algae are another story.

The bio-rocker depends on a side to side mechanical movement of ther bio-slab for it to function as well. You must always be sure this does not stop or you will lose much of the bio function of the cell pore.

Personally, I'd go with a nice wet dry and plastic media and just do your water changes.

The Bio-rocker is pretty expensive as well, if I remember.

Dave

[cowboy steve]

The above product is made by Kent Marine. The meat of the product is what they call the Bio-Slab. It is a product also marketed under the name Cell-Pore.

This can provide aerobic and anaerobic filtration. Bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite to nitrate are aerobic, meaning they use O2 in the process. Anaerobic bacteria are the denitrating type, what convert nitrate to nitogen gas in a non-oxygen environment.

The denitrifying block allows for the establishment of anaerobic bacteria colonies deep in the cell pore structure, and these will remove the nitrates from water.

I believe the main issue with a product such as this would be keeping the cell pore structure from being coated with film and mulm on the outside, which is the main issue for any biomedia, be it plastic of sintered glass. Cell pore is a type of glass, FYI.

It is the equivalent of a piece of wood being coated on all sides by an epoxy sealer. If biomedia gets coated then it becomes inactive, whether aerobic or anaerobic.

If the cell pore is kept open it would probably do a great job at keeping ammonia/nitrites/nitrates a zero, but the main issue for discus isn't nitrate levels, it is removing all the other dissolved organics and bacteria and uneaten food and growth limiting hormones, etc before it becomes an issue for the fish. Nitrates aren't really that big an issue for freshwater or saltwater fish. Saltwater inverts and algae are another story.

The bio-rocker depends on a side to side mechanical movement of ther bio-slab for it to function as well. You must always be sure this does not stop or you will lose much of the bio function of the cell pore.

Personally, I'd go with a nice wet dry and plastic media and just do your water changes.

The Bio-rocker is pretty expensive as well, if I remember.

Dave

$400.00 with a sump, you'll need a pump too, return kit, etc....

I paid about $150.00 for my wet/dry, complete.

The bio-rocker would make a nice conversation piece though.

[Ax]

wet/dry filter is great for bear bottom grow out tank, or just a fish only display tank. It is not a good option for planted tank, because of the huge loss of CO2 needed for the plants (Plants never do well with Wet/dry without compressed CO2 to help) or with breeding tanks because the O2 enriched water has higher pH – THIS information is important only for fresh water tanks. W/D is great for SW tanks.

[Dave C]

My CO2 injected planted tank did awesome with a wet/dry.

[Ax]

Like I said "(Plants never do well with Wet/dry without compressed CO2 to help) ", hey Dave are you the one I got the bristlenose plecos from ?(Dwayne picked them up for me)

Alex (Ax) from Saskatoon.

[Dave C]

Nope, right city, wrong Dave. He has nice plecos though. btw, I didn't notice the "without", thought it said "with".

[tcfish]

Never had a wet/dry ever increase ph be it bare bottom or not and as far as the bio-rocker elimenating nitrates Ha Ha good luck just another well marketed exspensive piece of ---- opps ,dont need no moving parts in a wet/dry just more to go wrong with it.

[Ax]

pH value of water is the result of the ratio between dissolved carbon dioxide and the carbonated hardness of the water. So if you have hard water it will give you natural pH “buffer”, in most cases and especially with soft water when CO2 is gone the water becomes more alkaline, if you don’t believe me “google it” or check any chem. book on water pH. At ph above 7.6 Discus eggs outer shell is hardened and they left unfertilized. If you did not have this experience your water “buffering” capabilities are high.

Reason I mentioned bare bottom was because some gravel and bacteria in the substrate will bring “buffer” up and it will be less notesable. Most breeding tanks are bare bottom so just an extra thing to check for.

I do agree with you on mechanical portion, as for nitrates – water changes are the best solution .

Hey Dave, his plecos are great :) I have 9 in one of my tanks.



Best regards.

Alex (Ax)

[cowboy steve]

Never had a wet/dry ever increase ph be it bare bottom or not and as far as the bio-rocker elimenating nitrates Ha Ha good luck just another well marketed exspensive piece of ---- opps ,dont need no moving parts in a wet/dry just more to go wrong with it.

Same here with wet/dry and pH, mine doesn't change, although it probably should, as AX said, the relative hardness of my water most likely precludes this process.

As far as Bio-Rocker removing Nitrates, anyone who is as far removed from reality to shell out $400 plus dollars for that wet/dry system will probably believe anything you tell them.

I'm going to market my own filter, the Bio-Pit Bull, the Pit-Bull's surface is the perfect enviroment for growing helpful bacteria, Removes Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites, Poodles, cats, your neighbors kids and other things which are harmful to your fish.

Sump and muzzle extra.