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marilyn1998
01-23-2006, 07:02 PM
I have a 30 gallon tank kept at 86 degrees and 7.0 ph. It has been running since 12/3/05. The nitrite cycle is active, starting to slowly go down.
I have an undergravel filter, and an Eclipse 3 hood/filter system.
I do a 40% water change daily, adding Amquel and Aquarisol.
I have (2) 3" yellow Siam Masters in this tank, about 10 days. I have 2 cori cats that I cycled with from the beginning and (2) 2" red pidgeon bloods. (solid). The pidgeons were added 5 days ago and they have multiple black flecks on them, I thought at first were part of their coloration. But now the yellows are exhibiting these black spots. (it is not ick). All get along well, swim around, no dark colors, rapid breathing or mucous. One of the yellows just started eating 3 days ago, only eats frozen brine or blood worms. One yellow still shows no interest in going for the food, yet follows the rest as they eat. All are friendly and curious when I approach the tank. The pidgeons eat flake as well as frozen.
Any idea what this black spot is? Looks like pepper all over the nose, fins and then body. Mostly on the fins and lateral lines. Help!

Timbo
01-23-2006, 07:29 PM
OMG!! black pepper! GRAB THE JAVEX!!1!

hehe, its entirely normal, its actually referred to as "peppering" and is seen in almost all pigeons to varying degrees. nothing to worry about

the UG filter on the other hand.... :)

marilyn1998
01-23-2006, 07:47 PM
Thanks for the note. Why, tho are the yellows just now showing this peppering? And how long can they go without eating? The one has been refusing to eat for 10 days, but seems alright. I guess if it isnt broke, dont fix it? :> Any way to get them to start eating flake along with the frozen?

pcsb23
01-24-2006, 05:17 AM
Solid coloured fish can develop peppering as the age. The peppering will show much like the stress bars do on others.

If the fish are healthy, good colour, no darkening, clear eyes and steady breathing, then they will start to eat soon I would think, to wean them onto a new food, feed that food first thing. You can also soak the flake in the bloodworm and feed that.

Paul.

raglanroad
01-24-2006, 10:56 AM
We'll have to get the math guy to figure out how much aquarisol is in the tank now.
Are there reasons to be adding aquarisol daily ?
Dave

KIWI13
01-24-2006, 12:29 PM
what colour is your tanks background.. Dark coloured backgrounds bring out peppering in the pigeon blod varieties...

If you want to minimise peppering, then stick in a pale background and keep them under light for a good 12 odd hours.. It minimises peppering...

I am not a big fan of under gravel filters and I would not recommend them with discus....

Jason

marilyn1998
01-24-2006, 02:58 PM
Thank you for so much response!!! Let me answer...

First off, the aquarisol is added because I was told that it was a good preventative for disease. I use 1/2 tsp for 30 gallons.

The feeding advice is good, I Will try it all.

I have no background on the tank. I have it near a white wall. And the light is usually on from 6:20 am until 10:00 pm. :>

I added the ug filter just about 2 weeks ago as my tank was overloaded and taking 5 weeks to get rid of the ammonia. Now, I am dealing with nitrite but testing it twice a day and doing water changes every day. So far.... no stress but that can change on a dime as you all know. Footnote: the tank was overstocked due to a double shipment from a breeder. Took me time to part with the extras. I wanted a second tank soooo bad but the spouse is still putting his foot down. :>

pcsb23
01-24-2006, 06:46 PM
The poor water conditions will stress the fish. I'd swap the undergravel filter out and put an extra sponge filter in. UGF's cause more probs than they fix ime. Keep up with the w/c and if poss use aged heated water (more stable).

If Nitrite is showing on test kits add 1tblspn salt, non iodised, per 10 gals as it mitigates the toxic effects of nitrite.

Paul.

jeep
01-24-2006, 07:05 PM
The poor water conditions will stress the fish. I'd swap the undergravel filter out and put an extra sponge filter in. UGF's cause more probs than they fix ime. Keep up with the w/c and if poss use aged heated water (more stable).

If Nitrite is showing on test kits add 1tblspn salt, non iodised, per 10 gals as it mitigates the toxic effects of nitrite.

Paul.

Ditto!!