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SantaClaws
07-16-2006, 03:36 PM
Biological Filtration Vs. Mechanical Filtration

Mechanical filtration is basically the physical removal of bacteria from the water with a form of media, the most common being carbon. However there are any number of medias that remove ammonia, phosphates etc.

Basically, mechanical filtration is not required in a discus tank; in fact media such as carbon can actually be detrimental to the growth and well being of the fish. While carbon removes any number of detrimental bacteria that can hurt the fish, it also removes many things that the fish and plants require to be healthy, such as required minerals. The only need you should have for carbon is to remove medications from the water, but that can also be achieved by large volume water changes. Basically, why pay for something that isn’t required…

Biological filtration is the removal of harmful nitrates, ammonia etc… From the water by beneficial biological microorganisms. This is a very natural way of maintaining a tank that once properly set up, is far more stable, and vastly cheaper since you don’t have to replace it every month.

Maximizing Efficiency

Basically there is two ways you can improve the efficiency of your biological filtration system…

1) Flow Rate

The faster the filter can cycle through the water contained in your tank means the cleaner your tank is going to be. The longer the water sits in the tank, the greater the chance that the fish will be exposed to undesirable content. So, it is desirable to have a sufficient water turn over to eliminate detrimental bacteria, while not having a flow rate that makes the fish uncomfortable.

You can check your filters vitals, when compared to your tank size to see just how effective it is. In my main tank a 55-gallon, I have a filter that is designed for a 100-gallon tank. It comfortably cycles the water through once every 10-12 minutes.

If you can’t increase the speed that water is filtered, the other way to improve its efficiency is to increase its exposure to beneficial biological media…

2) Exposure to Beneficial Biological Media

The more surface exposure to beneficial biological media, the more the microorganisms can do their job effectively. The most common biological media is common sponge filter, it is highly effective at trapping food, plant material, and fish waste all while giving the micro organisms contained in the sponge a chance to break the waste down in to non harmful materials to the fish.

There are any number different biological media forms that can be bought ranging from Bio Balls to Lava Rock. They all work effectively, however from my understanding the most effective, is the one I tend to use… good old Nylon Pot Scrubbers. They have a huge surface area to increase maximum exposure, while not really slowing down the flow rate of the filter. You can pay a lot of money for some of the fancy high end biological media content, but they just don’t seem to be as effective or as cheap as the good old pot scrubbers you can get from any dollar store.

Here is a link comparing different medias: http://www.wernersponds.com/biofiltermedia.htm

Setting up your Filter

Pre filter: This is your first line of defense, the initial intake of water into the filtration unit. This should be covered with a foam pre filter because it increases your biological filtration load, and it just makes life so much simpler. No one wants to have to open up a canister filter all the time pull out the junk that collects in there. Eheim makes a nice pre filter, that is the one I use, however there are loads of others, you can also make your own. There is just no down side, and no reason not to have one of these.

Remove it every time you change the water in the tank by placing a plastic cup under it before you turn the power off on the filter. This stops all the junk it has collected from falling back in the tank. Rinse the pre filter off in the water you siphon out of the tank, or in de chlorinated water…never use tap water as it will kill off biological material.

Here is a link to a good post outlining the benefits of a pre filter:
http://forum.simplydiscus.com//showthread.php?t=27064

Interior foam filter: You need a second foam filter on the inside, just to catch any thing that the first one didn’t. It adds to the overall beneficial biological exposure and only really needs to be cleaned out once every month or so…in de chlorinated water.

Nylon Pot Scrubbers: regardless if you have a canister filter, or a filter that hangs on the back of your tank, you can greatly increase your bio load by many times by stuffing as many pot scrubbers in there as you can with out slowing the flow rate too much. The greater the bio load your filter can handle, the more stable the water parameters will be. The happier and healthier the fish will be!

Water Supplements: I like to use a product called Big Al’s Multi-Purpose Bio-Support. It’s a additive that adds live beneficial bacteria and helps maintain the bio system. It’s also nice to have because from time to time you will find your self adding medicines to the tank that will either stress your biological filtration, or in the worse case, totally crash it. When “it” hits the fan this is a nice product to help replenish the beneficial bacteria fast and stabilize the tank.

Regards,

SantaClaws.

sleonard
07-16-2006, 05:27 PM
Biological Filtration Vs. Mechanical Filtration

Mechanical filtration is basically the physical removal of bacteria from the water with a form of media, the most common being carbon. However there are any number of medias that remove ammonia, phosphates etc.

Basically, mechanical filtration is not required in a discus tank; in fact media such as carbon can actually be detrimental to the growth and well being of the fish. While carbon removes any number of detrimental bacteria that can hurt the fish, it also removes many things that the fish and plants require to be healthy, such as required minerals. The only need you should have for carbon is to remove medications from the water, but that can also be achieved by large volume water changes. Basically, why pay for something that isn’t required…



This is chemical filtration. Mechanical filtration is the trapping of particulates, usually by a sponge. Chemical filtration does not remove bacteria, ammonia, nitrites or nitrates. It does remove medications and some other chemical contaminants.



Biological filtration is the removal of harmful nitrates, ammonia etc… From the water by beneficial biological microorganisms. This is a very natural way of maintaining a tank that once properly set up, is far more stable, and vastly cheaper since you don’t have to replace it every month.


Bio filtration is the conversion of ammonia to nitrites and then to nitrates. Nitrates must then be removed by water changes (or sometimes by planting the tank but planted tanks are a whole 'nother beast).



Maximizing Efficiency

Basically there is two ways you can improve the efficiency of your biological filtration system…

1) Flow Rate

The faster the filter can cycle through the water contained in your tank means the cleaner your tank is going to be. The longer the water sits in the tank, the greater the chance that the fish will be exposed to undesirable content. So, it is desirable to have a sufficient water turn over to eliminate detrimental bacteria, while not having a flow rate that makes the fish uncomfortable.

You can check your filters vitals, when compared to your tank size to see just how effective it is. In my main tank a 55-gallon, I have a filter that is designed for a 100-gallon tank. It comfortably cycles the water through once every 10-12 minutes.

If you can’t increase the speed that water is filtered, the other way to improve its efficiency is to increase its exposure to beneficial biological media…

2) Exposure to Beneficial Biological Media

The more surface exposure to beneficial biological media, the more the microorganisms can do their job effectively. The most common biological media is common sponge filter, it is highly effective at trapping food, plant material, and fish waste all while giving the micro organisms contained in the sponge a chance to break the waste down in to non harmful materials to the fish.

There are any number different biological media forms that can be bought ranging from Bio Balls to Lava Rock. They all work effectively, however from my understanding the most effective, is the one I tend to use… good old Nylon Pot Scrubbers. They have a huge surface area to increase maximum exposure, while not really slowing down the flow rate of the filter. You can pay a lot of money for some of the fancy high end biological media content, but they just don’t seem to be as effective or as cheap as the good old pot scrubbers you can get from any dollar store.

Here is a link comparing different medias: http://www.wernersponds.com/biofiltermedia.htm


While flow rate may better the mechanical filtration it makes no difference in the bio-filtration. A high flow rate decreases the time the water is in contact with the bio-media reducing the amount of ammonia converted. It makes up for this by cycling the water past the bio-media more often. A slow flow rate keeps the water in contact with the bio-media longer increasing the amount of ammonia converted but the water passes by less often.



Setting up your Filter

Pre filter: This is your first line of defense, the initial intake of water into the filtration unit. This should be covered with a foam pre filter because it increases your biological filtration load, and it just makes life so much simpler. No one wants to have to open up a canister filter all the time pull out the junk that collects in there. Eheim makes a nice pre filter, that is the one I use, however there are loads of others, you can also make your own. There is just no down side, and no reason not to have one of these.

Remove it every time you change the water in the tank by placing a plastic cup under it before you turn the power off on the filter. This stops all the junk it has collected from falling back in the tank. Rinse the pre filter off in the water you siphon out of the tank, or in de chlorinated water…never use tap water as it will kill off biological material.

Here is a link to a good post outlining the benefits of a pre filter:
http://forum.simplydiscus.com//showthread.php?t=27064

Interior foam filter: You need a second foam filter on the inside, just to catch any thing that the first one didn’t. It adds to the overall beneficial biological exposure and only really needs to be cleaned out once every month or so…in de chlorinated water.


Don't bother trying to save the small amount of bio in the pre/mechanical filters. There's enough bio in the bio-media. Definately rinse the bio-media in dechlorinated water though.



Nylon Pot Scrubbers: regardless if you have a canister filter, or a filter that hangs on the back of your tank, you can greatly increase your bio load by many times by stuffing as many pot scrubbers in there as you can with out slowing the flow rate too much. The greater the bio load your filter can handle, the more stable the water parameters will be. The happier and healthier the fish will be!


Bio-load is the amount of waste produced by the fish and uneaten food. The size of the bio-colony is dependant on the bio-load not the amount of media providing you have the minimum amount of bio-media. Increasing the amount of media is pure waste after that.



Water Supplements: I like to use a product called Big Al’s Multi-Purpose Bio-Support. It’s a additive that adds live beneficial bacteria and helps maintain the bio system. It’s also nice to have because from time to time you will find your self adding medicines to the tank that will either stress your biological filtration, or in the worse case, totally crash it. When “it” hits the fan this is a nice product to help replenish the beneficial bacteria fast and stabilize the tank.

Regards,

SantaClaws.

The only product I know of that has been shown to actually work in this manner is biospira but maybe Big Al's works also. I doubt it, it is no trivial feat to isolate and propogate a specific species of bacteria. Keeping said bacterial culture alive in retail packaging is many times harder.

In a discus tank you want to use mechanical and biological filtration as your primary methods with temporary chemical filtration as the need arises.

Scott

lhforbes12
07-16-2006, 05:45 PM
I agree with Scott in all essentials, being the nit picky person I am I will add though that rapid water flowing through the filter increases O2 content which has the potential for increasing aerobic bacteria. A wet/dry filter works using this principal by giving the bacteria atmospheric O2 to suppliment the dissolved O2 in the water. Seachem's "Stability" works as well or better than Biospira IMO. It has a shelf life of 4 years.

Larry

Graham
07-16-2006, 07:19 PM
Santaclaws..I agree with Scott fully here...you're undestanding of filtration...mechanical, chemical and biological needs some more study.

No media removes bacteria, carbon doesn't remove bacteria, ammonia and nitrite oxidization is instant, dwell time in a filter needs only to be seconds and as long as there sufficient bio-media there will be no readable ambient NH3 NO2....

.......While pot scrubbers are a great bio-media they are a very long way from being the best.......

Other than a few top bacteria products, the majority of bottled bacteria's are snake oils...''the benefical bacteria'' hype is pure marketing...in these products there are no nitrifying bacteria....they are sludge eaters no different than what I dump in my septic tank...unless your aquarium is full of crud they are useless.

Timbo
07-16-2006, 08:12 PM
Biological Filtration Vs. Mechanical Filtration

Mechanical filtration is basically the physical removal of bacteria from the water as the others have pointed out, this is incorrect.


So, it is desirable to have a sufficient water turn over to eliminate detrimental bacteria also incorrect in that "detrimental" bacteria will not be removed (unless you have a UV unit installed)




Pre filter: This should be covered with a foam pre filter because it increases your biological filtration load a prefilter increase mechanical filtration, not biological



Rinse the pre filter off in the water you siphon out of the tank, or in de chlorinated water…never use tap water as it will kill off biological material.you can use chlorinated tap water because its a mechanical filter with little/no bacteria

Dood Lee
07-16-2006, 10:04 PM
Is this supposed to be a new sticky topic or something? What exactly is the purpose of this post?

SantaClaws
07-16-2006, 10:44 PM
My apologies if it’s not up to snuff, just my lame attempt to give back something to the sight since I have picked up lots of useful stuff from reading here.

Regards,

SantaClaws.