Using Python for Water Changes

[Blue Ram]

I have two 50 gal discus tanks. I'm trying to come up with an easier way of changing water than using aged, heated water from 5 gal pails. My back is going to give out!! I use a python on my other tanks but have not used it to change water on the discus tanks. What, if any, are the dangers of this. The temperature and treating the water shouldn't cause any issues. What about the ph??

[Camden]

I use a python in my daily changes exactly for the reason your wanting to use one. My back was killing me :waaa: My water from the tap is pretty perfect for Discus I guess I'm lucky, little bit on the hard side but other then that perfect. I also don't have a big flux in PH after the water has been out as well. That could be a problem and stress the fish. I treat the water too even though the python does a fair job at getting chlorine out of the water. I then add Kent's Discus supplements too.
My pet store guy told me he once used shop vacs and reverses the flow to get his water in his tank.

[used2bBubbles]

I have very hard water and the pH is unstable, so I store 45 gallons in just a regular tank with an AC filter and heater. Have a 1/6 hp submersible sump pump to pump the aged water into the 55 gallon tank.

Some people use Rubbermaid Trash Containers. They hold about 40-50 gallons of water and come with wheels. They're sturdy and work well. You could store your water there and use a pump to get it to your tanks.

I wouldn't use straight tap water if your pH is different 12-24 hours after it comes out of the tap; at least not with discus.

[Greg Richardson]

If you use rubbermaids which I do I'm going to have to disagree with using the kind with wheels. Imo the sides are to thin. The Brute with no wheels have much thicker sides and more stable.

[used2bBubbles]

Thanks for the correction, Greg. Never had to use them, so I was under the impression that either style--with or without wheels--worked. Glad you cleared that up.

[dishpanhands]

Best thing to do is get a good pump and a storage container.

[greyhoundfan]

If you use rubbermaids which I do I'm going to have to disagree with using the kind with wheels. Imo the sides are to thin. The Brute with no wheels have much thicker sides and more stable.

I agree with Greg..get the round ones, not the square ones with wheels.. like I did..I just thought it looked sexier... I have warped it already and caused one to leak. I'm still using em' though.. keeping my fingers crossed.

[VL67]

I myself evolved to using the python and refilling my aquarium with straight tap water out of the faucet. My tap water is treated by the City of Chicago, Illinois and when my municipality receives it, additional chlorine may be added before it is distributed to the watermain system; other than that, the water chemistry is basically the same as if I was living in the city. I have a 180 gallon tank and I perform a daily 50% water change using the python. When I reverse the flow to add straight tap water into the aquarium, I only turn on the hot water because my water heater cannot supply enough hot water before the tank is refilled! I allow the water to splash on the water surface to dissapate the chlorine as I refill the aquarium. I've done this for a few years now (after discussing this meathod with one of the discuss sellers in the Chicago area). My normal tank temperature is 87F and by the time the tank is filled, the water temperature is usually 83F. The heaters bring the temperature back to 87F in a couple of hours. As far as pH, I really have not had any issues or concerns. Maybe I'm just lucky. I would check with your local municipality's Public Works or Water Department to get a copy of their "Consumer Confidence Report" on your potable water supply and check to see what your water chemistry looks like to make sure there are no chemicals added that would harm your discus. By the way, the Illinois EPA requires every municipality to send an annual report to their residents. HTH.

Reagrds,

Vince

[used2bBubbles]

So Vince, you don't use any additives to remove the chlorine? Just let the water splash?

I'd be interested to know if you have any change in pH. I used to do exactly what you are when I had angelfish, but then I was told that the difference in pH straight from the tap versus aged was too great and that it was stressing my angels.

When I got my discus, I went to aging the water and never had a problem, so the angels got lucky, I guess.

[FishLover888]

I used to have a plastic container from WalMart to hold the water and treat it before pumping into the tank. It had a leak few weeks back.

Now I have a Brute with no wheels (thanks for the advise guys/gals) that holds 44g of water OUTSIDE of my house. Which means less chance of water INSIDE the house. Very happy with the change. Trust me, the last thing you want is a 45g container filled with water that starts to leak INSIDE your house!

[VL67]

So Vince, you don't use any additives to remove the chlorine? Just let the water splash?

I'd be interested to know if you have any change in pH. I used to do exactly what you are when I had angelfish, but then I was told that the difference in pH straight from the tap versus aged was too great and that it was stressing my angels.

When I got my discus, I went to aging the water and never had a problem, so the angels got lucky, I guess.

Hello used2bBubbles,

I do not use any dechlorinating pruduct of any kind (stress coat, prime, etc.) anymore, although I used to. In my individual situation, I have not experienced any harmful effects or had any discus mortality. Some, not all, discus may show their stress bars for a few minutes after the w/c but loose them quickly. I was told that the residual chlorine left in the refill water causes the discus' slime coat to shed off, along with any parasites (if any) that may be attached to their skin and is replaced by the discus, which you can actually see happen (the shedding off). I also give them a feeding of frozen bloodworms within a half hour of the w/c (the time it takes me to clean up and put everything away...to my wife's liking :p LOL) and all are eagerly and actively feeding. I will perform a pH test before and after a w/c over the weekend and let you know what that the results are. I've never concerned myself with the pH bounce before, but it will be fun to see what the results are. I'll pm you the results next week so we do not wander away from Blue Ram's thread. I do want to emphasize to you that my tap water source is from the City of Chicago and I know what my municipality does to it before is it is distributed to its customers. So far the chemistry of the water seems to have no adverse health affect with my discus. I am not endorsing anyone to use straight tap water, but for my individual situation, I've not experienced any negative affects and has made my daily water changes possible, easier, faster, feasable, and economical, which I think directly relates back to Blue Ram's initial question on this thread.

I want to appologize Blue Ram if I got off the subject of your thread a bit.

Regards,

Vince

[Derock]

Interesting thread going.....I have used Prime and a waterbed filler/emptier and an old garden hose and filled up my tanks with tap water[ much cheaper than a python tee hee] .....but have noticed if I use less Prime...the fish have very heavy slime coming off them. I used to do the direct from the tap fill up with my community fish tanks with no deaths or weakness...but I've heard and read that the fishes gills are damaged and burned by the Chlorine in the water. I have talked with my local fish store and there display planted disk tank is filled the same way...direct untreated tap water and there fish have laid eggs several times. Makes me wonder if using Prime is so important or not? I have to admit the water bed filler/emptier used to buy it at Walmart for 3 dollars or so...now I can't find them anymore....damn it.

[Graham]

There are published reports that show that chronic exposure to levels of chlorine as low as 0.002ppm will cause gill hyperplasia... Constant exposure to 0.2 > 0.3ppm levels are capable of killing fish within weeks. Levels normally found in water supplies are capable of killing with in hours from suffocation......

...While chlorine is capable of gassing off fairly quickly, it doesn't dissipate that fast................needless to say the larger the water change the worse the effects will be.

Considering that sodium thiosulfate/de-chlor is dirt, dirt cheap I can see no reason to expose fish to the effects of chlorine, a very strong oxidizer.

Just because damage isn't obvious doesn't mean it isn't happening

G