storage barrel plumbing

[rly]

i finnally picked up some plastic barrels to keep my fresh water in i am sure i have seen peoples pictures of how they did it i wnat to use two barrels hooked together with there own heaters not sure if best to use one pump or multiple.i thought i saw one by kathy maybe but i cant find any of the posts now any help would be appreciated
thanks
ron

[Greg Richardson]

Ron. If you don't find anything here do a search on DAAH. I remember a thread there about hooking up barrels.

[rly]

thanks greg i will check it out
ron

[Polar_Bear]

Materials:
(2) 1 1/2" Bulkheads
(2) 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" PVC Elbows
(1) Length 1 1/2" PVC Pipe
(1) Small Can PVC Primer
(1) Small Can PVC Cement

Tools:
Drill
2 3/8" Hole Saw

Drill one 2 3/8" hole into bottom of each barrel, insert bulkhead, insert 2 1/2" length 1 1/2" PVC pipe into each bulkhead, glue elbow to each section of pipe, glue and connect the two ebows together using 1 1/2" PVC pipe, done.

[rly]

hi polar bear is this you are suggesting strickly gravity fed or does the pump increase the flow rate,if you might also suggest a pump for this system
thanks

[Tropical Haven]

If it helps you out at all, here is an old post of what I did with my storage tank.

http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?t=56903

[Polar_Bear]

You can hook a pump to this but then you would need to add:
(1) 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1" PVC Tee
(1) 1" Ball Valve
(1) 1" x 1" Coupler Slip x FNPT
(1) 1" Hose Barb

Or you could just do it the way I originally said and buy a 1000 GPH Utility Pump that hooks up directly to a garden hose for under $50 at any big box hardware store. It all depends on how fancy you want it to be.

I have four 55 gallon barrels, 2 for RO water, 2 for tap water. Both sets have a sight tube so I know how full they are, both sets can be drained fully by merely openning a ball valve, both sets have float valves so I don't wake up to a flooded basement. Of course that takes a lot more materials.

[Ed13]

I have been planning my own setup for a while now so I've seen a few ideas, Don't really know how trick you want it to be though.
Once again the coolest setups are from salwater crowds, although Jack's(Discus KC) is pretty cool if you ask me. I'll see if I still have the links since I would probably mess things up trying to explain it.

For example,
You may drill the drums near the bottom and install some uniseals(no need for bulkheads couplings or anything other than the correct PVC pipe to place in the uniseal). Insert the PVC pipe to the uniseal and put a ball valve to isolate each drum and a true disconect union. From there tie them together to a T. After the T put a True disconect union for future maitanence and then to a single in-line pump and another disconect union after the pump, the rest are lines to the tanks.
Add float valves and other add-ons as needed.

You could go as fancy as you want or need!

[rly]

i want to say thank to everybody for responding i am going to look up uniseal and use a little of everybodies ideas i really like the idea of inline heaters i wiil look at big als and add to my list.pictures of some of the more elaborate sytems would be nice but really you all have been a big help
ron

[Ed13]

i want to say thank to everybody for responding i am going to look up uniseal and use a little of everybodies ideas i really like the idea of inline heaters i wiil look at big als and add to my list.pictures of some of the more elaborate sytems would be nice but really you all have been a big help
ron
I thought of something else, if you split the output line with a T and use a ball valve you can redirect water to the barrels with a line to aerate and release CO2

I have been trying to find info on wether the uniseal can hold the pressure of the water when its full and the valve is close. I'm about 80% sure it can and I've definately sen it done, but researching a bit and being sure never hurts

I can PM you the companies that sell them if you don't find any

[Ed13]

I saw this thread in Reefcentral and was reminded of this thread
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1139987

[Apistomaster]

Ed13 said,

"I have been trying to find info on wether the uniseal can hold the pressure of the water when its full and the valve is close. I'm about 80% sure it can and I've definately sen it done, but researching a bit and being sure never hurts."

And I have wondered about the Uniseal's integrity under pressure as well. I suspect they are fine if properly fitted because in the scheme of things normal psi ranges we aquarists use are modest. They are definitely a slick invention.

It is not very practical for most of us but it is really nice when the reservoirs can be elevated enough to use gravity as much as possible but you have to still get the water up there so as usual, the Universe provides no "free rides," energy gets literally pumped into the system at some point no matter the configuration.

I just had a thought about the in-line heaters as part of a water storage system. Bear with me because I am not an expert on this but it seems that there would be energy savings by using a submersible heater with a small circulating pump compared to in-line heating. Maybe they are equivalent but one would have to be pumping the system volume constantly through the in-line heater whereas it would take a very small powerhead to add some circulation to heated barrels with a submersible heater(s). Just thinking out loud.

[Ed13]

Ed13 said,

"I have been trying to find info on wether the uniseal can hold the pressure of the water when its full and the valve is close. I'm about 80% sure it can and I've definately sen it done, but researching a bit and being sure never hurts."

And I have wondered about the Uniseal's integrity under pressure as well. I suspect they are fine if properly fitted because in the scheme of things normal psi ranges we aquarists use are modest. They are definitely a slick invention.

It is not very practical for most of us but it is really nice when the reservoirs can be elevated enough to use gravity as much as possible but you have to still get the water up there so as usual, the Universe provides no "free rides," energy gets literally pumped into the system at some point no matter the configuration.

I've seen online storage barrells using it near the bottom with no problem, but personally I've never used them, so under pressure I can't say. But they really are a wonderfull invention, cheap and easy to use.

I'll link here if I find more setups

As far as gravity delivering water, PR is in the hurricane highway and cisterns on roof tops are common
I will be getting some for my, "seems like it'll never happen fishroom" still debating on putting it in the roof top or inside for future cleanings. Water will be mostly heated by the sun and that is cool, but you are right the Tap pressure will have to get the water up there.

[Ed13]

:argue:http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1152547 (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1152547):argue:

[Polar_Bear]

I did a search on "uni-seals" and I found them, they are correctly called BULKHEADS, "Uni-seal is merely a brand name. While the one on reef central is... uhhhhh... "interesting", I can only wonder if that guy is related to Rube Goldberg. Here is a clue, simple is ALWAYS best.

[Cosmo]

These are a little old, but the way I have my storage tanks setup remains essentially the same now. Different pump and hoses - and the new 100gal tank too. Rest remains the same.

The pump circulates the water between tanks. After about an hour of mixing the water in one tank is identical to the water in the other. The 4 ball valves allow me to isolate a tank, or pump from one to the other.

Has worked quite well.

Jim

[rly]

thanks for all the info these were what i was looking for now to decide which way to do it
again great info and thank you
ron

[Ed13]

I did a search on "uni-seals" and I found them, they are correctly called BULKHEADS, "Uni-seal is merely a brand name. While the one on reef central is... uhhhhh... "interesting", I can only wonder if that guy is related to Rube Goldberg. Here is a clue, simple is ALWAYS best.

HA ha ha, Larry most reefers are that way. Its more like a Rude Goldberg virus than any relation lol. They complicate themselves with a bunch of expensive gadgets and setups. Not uncommon to spend $5,000-$8,000 without livestock in a 75g-90g tank with many equipment they can do without.

[Polar_Bear]

1. RO/DI water into barrels through a float valve
2. Output from pump
3. Ball Valve for draining system
4. PVC U-tube for filling aquaria
5. Power strip for heaters
6. Sight Tube to see water height at a glance

[Ed13]

6. Sight Tube to see water height at a glance
Is the sight tube clear PVC? does the water pressure raise the level in this tube? can you accurately mark it to know exactly the water level?

In other words more info!;)

BTW, now that you have your camera out, maybe some picks of your heckels and RSGs can make it to the net;)

[Polar_Bear]

Sight tubes are clear Schedule 40 PVC, (purchased here: http://www.jehmco.com/ ) they don't need anything to make them more clear, I can see water levels at a glance, and yes water level will be the same in the tube as it is in the barrels. My wilds have already been posted so many times that I no longer want to bore people with their photos.

[Ed13]

Sight tubes are clear Schedule 40 PVC, (purchased here: http://www.jehmco.com/ ) they don't need anything to make them more clear, I can see water levels at a glance, and yes water level will be the same in the tube as it is in the barrels. My wilds have already been posted so many times that I no longer want to bore people with their photos.
Very nice, It has never ocurred to me, since you don't cut open the barrels not much can contaminated.

One more question, can you mark with a Sharpie lines that indicate the volume like 20 g, 10g or will the difference in water pressure make redings vary accordignly?

BTW, you've rarely posted your wilds after purchase:confused: Anyway who gets bored looking at nice quality discus? Not me, lol:)

Thanks MR. Polar Bear:D

[Polar_Bear]

Ed,
I thought of marking the sight tube as you suggest, but after using them I found that it was uneccessary, I can tell well enough how much water is in the barrels just by looking at it. My barrels come with removable lids that are held tightly in place with metal clamps made for them. The barrels and lids with clamps cost $20 total per barrel, making the whole system for each type of water and 2 barrels each cost around $150 total, including the pump and a heater in each barrel.