Algae control in non-planted

[harris611]

Lil help with controlling algae in a non-planted. I was thinking about some of the anti-algae chemicals, but wanted some opinions first.

Details -- I have a new 200g that has just finished cycling, no fish yet so water parameters are almost perfect, although it does have medium nitrates as I am still overfeeding the bio-filter with ammonia in prep for stocking next week). Tank has a pool filter sand / quartz substrate with a couple large pieces of driftwood that go all the way to the top of the water. I have three 100wt compact fluorescent daylight bulbs about 8" above the water that I have on about 12 hrs a day.

I noticed today that the top three inches of the wood is developing a little green and brown algae. I want to get ahead of it, especially since I have not even started feeding yet.

I can tone down the photo period to separate morning and night periods (off when at work). I could also go with 60 wt bulbs instead and see if that is enough light for fish viewing. I would appreciate any advice on kind and # of algae-controlling fish as well as opinions on the anti-algae chemicals you can buy.

Thoughts?

[GottaBeKiN]

I was told not to let your light running for more than 4 hours. Turn it off in between for an hour or two before you turn it back on. But advise is for an planted tank. Also, is your tank exposed to sunlight? Another option is to get some bushy nose plecos.

[crazie.eddie]

Brown algae normally occurs in new tanks, which eventually disappears. IME, my 125 gallon tank has always had problems with brown algae, even after 2 years. It still came back, even when I reduced the photo period, but at a slower rate. I recently added farlowella catfishes and THEY HAVE BEEN A SAVIOUR!!! All my equipment, hoses, cords, power heads look like I meticulously cleaned them. I tried otos, but I would have needed hundreds to help cleanup my 125 gallon tank.

[aquagal]

Add some BN plecos and your algae problems will be gone.

Also, why have the light on at all right now, expecially since there are no fish. Keep it off until you get fish and when you do add, add some BN plecos.

I recommend NOT using any anti-algae chemical. Whatever will kill the algae may also affect what live stock you do add.

[White Worm]

add some BN plecos.

I recommend NOT using any anti-algae chemical. Whatever will kill the algae may also affect what live stock you do add.

I agree.
Tried some algae rid one time, wont do it again. The discus swam right through it and at least one did not do well afterwards. BN plecos keep things pretty clean. Heard shrimp do well also.

[harris611]

Ok -- no chemicals. And thanks for the advise on the cleaner fish -- I'll look into all of those.

There is no direct sunlight that hits the tank -- and the reason I have the lights on is to run the tank as it will be with stock and see if I have any issues that might be easier to deal with before fish.

Also, are any of the clean-up fish good at cleaning off driftwood in particular. I have had this wood submerged for almost 9 months, bleached and boiled, but they still are decaying a little at a time -- if I scrub them, a lot of little particles come off. Not a big deal, but thought some of the plecos are good at tidying up (and feeding on) driftwood. I have three huge pieces in there.

Also, any proponents of UV sterilizers?

[aquagal]

the plecos will work on the driftwood for sure.

Mine driftwood had algae all over them before I added the BN plecos and they had it completely cleared off in one day

I think UV is a waste of time, some others may disagree. If I'm not mistaken, I think the UV can actually kill off good bacteria as well as bad. If you have clean water, you shouldn't need it in my opinion.

[GrillMaster]

300W's of lighting is alot of light over a 200G tank without plants! Algae will certainly grow well for you since there is nothing else in the tank to utilize that much light. I would think that the 60W bulbs would be a little less algae freindly along with a little less photo period.

Plecos, like others have mentioned will also keep your wood pretty clean. :)

tc
Mark

[harris611]

Ok -- will cut down the lighting and mail order some cleaners.

Thanks for the help...

Matt

[tdr1919]

I like the clown pleco, only grows to about 2.5 inches and doesnt try to latch on to the Discus.
I have used pond care algae fix in my BB 55, even with 3 month old fry and it did not effect the fish. I still believe in not using chemicals but sometimes it just gets out of hand!

- Tom

[Wahter]

I think UV is a waste of time, some others may disagree. If I'm not mistaken, I think the UV can actually kill off good bacteria as well as bad. If you have clean water, you shouldn't need it in my opinion.

I'll disagree - UV sterilizers are great for clearing up green water algae.

Also, any nitrifying bacteria existing in the filter media won't be going through the UV sterilizer, so it shouldn't be affected.

Just my opinion.


Walter

[Apistomaster]

I happen to think a little algae is not a bad thing but 300 watt of light for a bare six foot tank is going to grow more algae than even I could stand. Put those babies on a timer and only run them long enough to get good plant growth. Probably 10 hours a day will be about right if you add the plants listed below.

It wouldn't hurt to plant som pots with the Amazon Sword, Echinodorus blehei and attach Anubia barteri to the drift wood. Finally, add some floating plants. I recommend Water Sprite and Ceratophyllum, Hornwort.

The floating plants not only provide shade for discus but if you want to try some shrimp they will do better if they have a lot of plants to clean.
The clown pleco, Panaque maccus, is not one of the better algae eating plecos. The Panaque species are all specialized wood eaters. They also hide more than bushy Noses. They do eat algae but it is only a sideline for them. They actually will feed preferentially on meaty foods given the chance.
The common Ancistrus sp#3, Bushy Nose Plecos, are about the best of all the algae eating plecos. It is very rare for them to bother discus. One pair or trio will eat all the algae that is fit to eat in one six foot tank.. Some algae are not eaten by anything.
The Farlowella are well suited to large planted tanks, in fact, Farlowella rarely live long unless they are given large planted tanks. They are quite delicate, especially during the initial acclimation period but once through that perilous period, and if given the described conditions, they will often spawn. Raising Farlowella fry is not easy but well worth it from a personal satisfaction stand point.

[Taulmaril]

My tank has a little algae, no filament algae or anything serious. What I hate is about ever 3-4 days the film algae starts to grow on the glass. So I scrape it off 2-3 times a week, and just always wondered if thats normal or not (and I'm just whining about it and should stfu...)? My buddy says he winds up scraping algae at least once a week (but he says he probably could/should do it 2-3 times as well). Just wondering how much folks here find the need to scrape their glass.

[harris611]

I probably should have been more clear -- I actually had the incandescent equivalent of 300 watts. Actual was 3x 30 watt compact fluorescents. I did drop that down to 3x 14 watt (60 watt eqv) and bought a timer. That plus some cleaner-upper fish and I'm guessing I'll be okay.

I actually like the slightly darker look. More shadows and less bounce off the sand. I will eventually go to a planted tank, but I'm going to just tackle the discus for a year or so first...