Water consistancy woes

[Scribbles]

This discussion started under the carbon in filters thread but has changed topics. Long story short. I live in an area t"hat used to be rural. The water system uses natural springs and as one gets low pumps are turned on for another spring. This didn't happen verry often years ago however, with population explosion the supply is inadiquate so this happens more frequently. The problem is that PH can be 7.8 or 8 from one area and 7.0 from another. I currently use Seachem discus buffer, neutral regulator and Prime to try to keep things consistant. This has been working well so far. Water storage is an issue and RO is not an option right now. Any suggestions on how to be more "natural"?

[Scribbles]

Grahm,

I sure don't need any more help being nuts. I test tap water regularly and only add prime for my bettas and do the smaller water changes during swings. With swings coming more frequently though I hate to have my discus change so much. That is why I broke down and tried chemicals. I only add to new water before adding to tank. Never to tank directly. PH tests 6.8 in buckets and stays between 6.8 and 7.0 in the tank.

I kind of shot myself in the foot when I started discus 7 years ago with bog log and peat pellets. Following advice from books I got everyone happy with soft acidic water. Big newbie mistake (should have known better). Can't get peat pellets consistantly anymore and water got too soft and I got PH fluxuations. So trying to make the best of the situation.

[Eddie]

I would do as Graham suggested, test the water everyday before the WC. Another thing to think about is if you are growing youngins or if you have adults. Youngins IMO need more water changes due to higher amounts of feeding and frequency. If the water is similar one day to the next, I'd change more. Just my thoughts on it.


Eddie

[Scribbles]

Thanks for the advice. I have juvies right now which adds to the problem. I'm doing 50% wc daily. If they were adults it wouldn't be such a big deal if things changed overnight. I could do smaller changes over several days to acclimate them. But my little piggies need their room cleaned daily IMO. So far all parameters are ok, but I'll make bigger wc if needed. They haven't been layin on their sides during wc yet. lol

[Eddie]

Thanks for the advice. I have juvies right now which adds to the problem. I'm doing 50% wc daily. If they were adults it wouldn't be such a big deal if things changed overnight. I could do smaller changes over several days to acclimate them. But my little piggies need their room cleaned daily IMO. So far all parameters are ok, but I'll make bigger wc if needed. They haven't been layin on their sides during wc yet. lol

Naw, that fine...thats just my thing. It really all depends on stocking levels and feeding. My tanks are TRASHED just before I do a WC. LOL

Eddie

[Scribbles]

50% wc daily work for now. I'm checking water parameters daily though in case I need to do bigger changes.

The next ? is would you back off buffers now or wait until older? 2.5-3 inches now and growing by the second. lol. If I wean them off buffers now, what should I do if tap PH changes drasticly? I'm concerned that water quality would suffer greatly without large wc.

Thanks for all the help.

[Eddie]

50% wc daily work for now. I'm checking water parameters daily though in case I need to do bigger changes.

The next ? is would you back off buffers now or wait until older? 2.5-3 inches now and growing by the second. lol. If I wean them off buffers now, what should I do if tap PH changes drasticly? I'm concerned that water quality would suffer greatly without large wc.

Thanks for all the help.

What does your water do after 24 hours of aeration/agitation? Actually, check your tank water right after you do a WC and then check it again right before your next WC. Then before you do the WC, check the PH of your tap. If there is not a difference of more than .2, I'd be doing straight tap, no buffer.

Eddie

[Scribbles]

Actually just did wc an hour ago. Time got away from me. Tank was 6.8. Tap 7.8.
Water mixed in bucket for wc 6.8. Tap has been 7.8 +/- for last 2 months, so may change soon. Had plenty of rain/snow in Dec. but not enough since then so may change soon. Should see most change begin May maybe April thru Nov. Depends if we get more snow in mts. I'll be glad when we get new water source.

[Eddie]

Actually just did wc an hour ago. Time got away from me. Tank was 6.8. Tap 7.8.
Water mixed in bucket for wc 6.8. Tap has been 7.8 +/- for last 2 months, so may change soon. Had plenty of rain/snow in Dec. but not enough since then so may change soon. Should see most change begin May maybe April thru Nov. Depends if we get more snow in mts. I'll be glad when we get new water source.

Yeah, you definitely have to age your water. I'm sure you can figure something out.

Eddie

[Scribbles]

Just went downstairs and checked PH again 6.8. I started this method back in July with my cardinal tetras and only did weekly wc. After one week PH was between 6.8 and 7.0.

[Roxanne]

Unless you have eggs in the tank that need the softer water to hatch, why as Graham says, drive yourself nuts? (been there too;))They can handle the upswing, it's the crashing part in the tank you want to avoid right? If you age your water, whatever ph it stabilises at is ok for your discus, yours seems to be 6.8 which is fine...if it's unstable and crashes in the tank (as mine used to crash down to 5 ish), you will have problems because the discus suffer with a ph crash, but crushed coral in a filter bag in a filter keeps mine really stable.....

If your ph is stable after 24 hours aeration, you could do your water change and refill your aging reservoir ready for the next one and you know you don't have to buff this or buff that:D

Rox

scribbles is a good handle BTW

[Scribbles]

Thanks for the help guys. I totally agree with you. I'm still trying to figure out how I could handle the crashes while having to do large wc.

[Roxanne]

crushed coral;)