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zerocoolv
04-27-2009, 07:44 PM
i bought myth blue its a powder how do i use it do i mix it with water and add it to the tank how much water i add to the powder .
and how much u add myth blue to the infected tank per gallon

also i bought i bought formalin how much u add to the infected tank per gallon .


thanks a lot .

Eddie
04-27-2009, 07:59 PM
No idea what myth blue is...sounds like myth. LOL

Formalin, 2 drops per gallon for extended period.

Eddie

seanyuki
04-27-2009, 11:00 PM
I think he meant Methylene Blue perhaps I am wrong.

Kordon Methylene Blue

SUGGESTED TREATMENT PROCEDURES
The following procedures are suggested for freshwater and marine aquariums and ponds. Methylene Blue is removed by activated carbon filtration. It will also be absorbed by porous materials such as rock, coral and wood. The product is best used in bare aquariums or ponds, especially if they are new. Methylene Blue may permanently color the silicone sealant in aquariums. At the conclusion of all treatments, a partial or complete water change should be made and activated carbon replaced in the filter.

Prevention or treatment of fungus on fish eggs:
(a) Remove carbon from the filter and continue to operate with mechanical filter media.
(b) Add 1 teaspoon of 2.303% Methylene Blue per 10 gallons of water. This produces a concentration of 3 ppm. For increased concentrations, add approximately 1/3 teaspoon (1.64 ml) per 10 gallons for each required 1 ppm increase.
(c) Only one application is needed. Treatment should continue for 3 days past free swimming stage or for livebearers 2 days after birth.

Prevention or treatment of fungus or external parasitic protozoans:
(a) Remove carbon filter and continue to operate with mechanical filter media throughout the treatment period.
(b) Add 1 teaspoon of 2.303% Methylene Blue per 10 gallons of water. This produces a concentration of 3 ppm. Continue the treatment for 3 to 5 days.
(c) Make a water change as noted and replace the filter carbon at the conclusion of the treatment.

Note: If the fish are heavily infected with external gill and/or skin parasites, it is advisable to modify the above procedure by adding 1 teaspoon of Acriflavine ( Kordon's 3.84% Trypaflavine solution is recommended) per 10 gallons of water in combination with Methylene Blue. Gill parasites such as Oodinium cause severe pathological damage to the host, which results in respiratory distress. Acriflavine aids in reducing this distress by acting as an oxygen transporter. Refer to the product data sheet concerning the proper use of Acriflavine (KPD-29) in established aquariums and ponds before using this optional procedure.

As an aid in reversal of nitrite (NO2-) or cyanide (CN-) poisoning of marine and freshwater aquarium fishes:
(a) Remove carbon filter and continue to operate with mechanical filter media throughout the treatment period.
(b) Add 1 teaspoon of 2.303% Methylene Blue per 10 gallons of water. This produces a concentration of 3 ppm. Continue the treatment for 3 to 5 days.
(c) Make a water change as noted and replace the filter carbon at the conclusion of the treatment. parasite protozoans."

For use as a dip for treatment of fungus or external parasitic protozoans and cyanide poisoning:
(a) Prepare a nonmetallic container of sufficient size to contain the fish to be treated by adding water similar to the original aquarium.
(b) Add 5 teaspoons (24.65 ml) per 3 gallons of water. This produces a concentration of 50 ppm. It is not recommended that the concentration be increased beyond 50 ppm.
(c) Place fishes to be treated in this solution for no longer than 10 seconds.
(d) Return fish to original aquarium.


Kordon Formalin 3

SUGGESTED TREATMENT PROCEDURES
The following procedures are suggested for both freshwater and marine systems, unless otherwise noted. It is important to note that some activated carbons can remove formaldehyde from water, but formaldehyde persists for only a few hours in aquariums and does not accumulate in the water.

SUCCESSFUL DISEASE TREATMENT
Successful treatment of diseases of aquarium fishes relies upon several factors. Firstly, as discussed above ("General Diagnosis of parasitic Diseases of Fishes"), a proper diagnosis of the disease must be made, and this can be one of the most difficult tasks facing an aquarist.

Secondly, the start and duration of a treatment is important. A disease which will usually respond to a given medication may not respond if the treatment is started too late, or if the length of treatment is not long enough.

Lastly, the correct medication at the correct dosage must be used with the proper treatment method. Formalin·3, for instance, will not be effective against systemic (internal) diseases of aquarium fishes because the therapeutic effects of the formaldehyde are restricted to those surfaces of the fishes that contact the treated water.

Water changes are another important factor. Some medications state that water changes are not necessary, but the fact is that water changes are always helpful. Depleted dissolved oxygen levels are replenished, dissolved organics are removed as are free-living disease organisms.

Treatment in a separate treatment or hospital tank, if possible, is also important. However, this is often a nuisance and in many cases the entire aquarium population is diseased.

TREATMENT OF FUNGAL AND PROTOZOAL DISEASES OF FISH (LONG-TERM BATH)
(a) Since there is conflicting evidence regarding the safety of formaldehyde to biological (nitrifying) filtration, all long-term bath treatments with Formalin·3 may (at the user's discretion) be done in a separate hospital or treatment tank.
(b) Remove granular activated carbon from all filters used on the treatment tank; clean or change the mechanical filter media (i.e., filter floss), and return the filter(s) to service (minus the carbon).
(c)Make a partial water change of approximately 25%
(d) Depending upon the condition of the fishes needing treatment (i.e., the severity of the disease, involvement of the gills and the degree of debilitation), the dosage should be varied from 1 to 2 teaspoons per 10 gallons (10 to 20 ppm.) Severely diseased or debilitated fishes should be treated at the lower dosage.
(e) The treatment may be repeated every 24 hours, by repeating all of the above steps, including the required water changes.
(f) The dosage may be increased as the condition of the fishes being treated improves.
(g) If the fishes were removed to a separate tank, the original aquarium or pond should remain devoid of all fishes for a period of at least 4 days to insure all of the remaining infestation has expired.

METHOD 2 (DIP) FOR THE PREVENTION OR TREATMENT OF FISH DISEASES
(a) To a clean, non-metallic container (i.e., a plastic bucket), add one or more gallons of fresh tap water treated with Kordon's AmQuel . For marine fish use freshly prepared saltwater adjusted to the same specific gravity (or salinity) as in the original tank. Make sure the temperature in the container is identical to that in the aquarium
(b) Add 1 to 2 teaspoons of Formalin·3. This produces a concentration of 100 to 200 ppm. formaldehyde.
(c) Agitate the solution with an airstone and adjust for a moderately strong flow of air.
(d) Remove the fishes to be treated and deposit them in the container for a treatment period of not more than 50 minutes. Immediately after the treatment period, or if signs of distress are noted, remove the fishes to a previously prepared recovery tank. The fishes may be returned to their original tank, but the presence of the original disease-causing agents in the tank water may result in a reoccurrence of the disease condition.
(e) Observe recovering fishes. Make sure that tankmates do not molest them during recovery.
(f) Repeat treatment as needed, every week. Each treatment is very stressful to the treated fishes. Do not reuse the dip solution.

METHOD 2 (DIP) FOR FISH EGGS
(a) Proceed as above for fishes, but collect the eggs in a net or grasp the object on which the eggs are attached and dip them for not more than 10 seconds.
(b) Immediately return the eggs into the original hatchery tank.
(c) Do not repeat the treatment, and do not reuse the dip solution.

For further information see comments in the Merck Veterinary Manual about the use of formalin in treating fishes. see http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/170404.htm. The following is an excerpt.Formalin is FDA [U.S. Food & Drug Administration] approved for use in finfish and penaeid (saltwater) shrimp...(table 7, Table: FDA-approved Drugs for Aquaculture Use in the USA (2002))...Formalin eliminates protozoan parasites and monogenean trematodes from the external surface of fish. It can be used as a prolonged bath at concentrations of 15-25 mg/L. The lower concentration is recommended for pond use because formalin removes dissolved oxygen from the water. Vigorous aeration during formalin treatment is essential. A concentration of 25 mg/L is equal to 2 drops/gal. (useful for delivering formalin to aquarium fish). When treating at 25 mg/L, a water change is not necessary following chemical administration. At this concentration, formalin has minimal impact on biofiltration; however, if ammonia is tested using Nessler’s reagent, a very high reading may be observed for several days. This is an artifact caused by the interaction of the 2 compounds. Short-term baths with formalin can be provided at concentrations up to 250 mg/L for 30-60 min. At water temperatures >77°F (25°C), the concentration should be decreased to ~170 mg/L. Fish should never be left unattended during treatment and if adverse reaction to the chemical becomes apparent, the fish should be immediately placed in clean water. If formalin is allowed to chill to <45°F, a white precipitate, paraformaldehyde, will form. Because paraformaldehyde is highly toxic to fish, formalin should never be used if a precipitate or cloudiness is observed. Formalin is carcinogenic and potentially toxic to workers; material safety data sheets should be on hand in businesses where the chemical is used, and employees should be informed of appropriate safety precautions.


Another useful article on the Internet is "The Use of Formalin to Control Parasites" by Dr Ruth Francis Floyd, University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/VM061.


Cheers
Francis:)

zerocoolv
04-28-2009, 01:29 PM
thanks guys a lot

yes i meant Methylene Blue i bought it from chemical shop its a powder how do i preapre it to add it to the infected tank do i mix it with water or i add powder directaly to the infected tank and how much is the dose 10nxa lot .

brewmaster15
04-28-2009, 02:56 PM
Hi,

What are you treating? You mentioned infection, but can you give some more details? Theres really not many"infections" that Meth Blue is good for, and there may be something better for what you are dealing .

hth,
al

zerocoolv
04-28-2009, 05:40 PM
no i just want to know the way to use mb i bought it and it was a powder i dont know how to deal with it so i asked
the mb is a powder how do i preapre it to add it to the infected tank do i mix it with water or i add powder directaly to the infected tank and how much is the dose thanks again :D

Graham
04-28-2009, 06:48 PM
I got looking around and it looks like 2mg/l.....time for a scale

zerocoolv
04-28-2009, 08:03 PM
so i add 2 mg/l M Blue powder to the infected tank ?