Planted 140 Gallon Discus

[bradp]

I'm in the process of changing my 140 gallon African Cichlid aquarium to a planted Discus tank.

http://www.tigervalley.com/aquarium/tankstand%20044.jpg

The tank is (60 x 18 x 31) with the following equipment.

Fluval FX5 filter
Rena XP4 filter
(2)250W Marineland Stealth Heaters
60" Power Compact Fluorescent Aquarium Light (2)65W and (2)96W

I'd like to set up the tank similar to this.

http://www.tigervalley.com/aquarium/500liter.jpg

I've purchased a couple pieces of driftwood to start. My questions to start are:

Is the tank pictured above something that I can achieve with my current lighting setup?

Is CO2 necessary? If so, what's the best system for this planted tank?

Recommendations for substrate?

Since the tank and filters are already cycled, what would my setup procedure be with regards to a time line for adding plants/fish?

Thanks in advance for the advice.

[Chad Hughes]

I've purchased a couple pieces of driftwood to start. My questions to start are:

Is the tank pictured above something that I can achieve with my current lighting setup?

Is CO2 necessary? If so, what's the best system for this planted tank?

Recommendations for substrate?

Since the tank and filters are already cycled, what would my setup procedure be with regards to a time line for adding plants/fish?

Thanks in advance for the advice.

IMO your lighting is perfect! You could certainly achieve this setup!

I like to use CO2 on planted tanks. Other like to keep it simple and use low light with low light plants. You are on the higher end of the spectum. I'd advise using CO2. I like to use pressurized, Ph controlled CO2 systems on large tanks. It just makes it more reliable and trouble free.

I use sand as substrate and fertilize the water column as well as the substrate. I like to use some dry ferts mixed in clay. Dry this out in the sun for a couple of days and insert in to the sand. Works beautifully. The substrate should be as fine as possible with discus. It's just easier to clean and the plants root well in it.

Since your filters are already cycled, I'd say once you are planted and water parameters are correct, you could add fish! I'm assuming that you are purchasing your fish from one source and you have no other fish in this tank. If you are combining sources or have other fish already in the tank, you'll need to quarantine your new fish prior to adding them all together.

Best wishes!

[bradp]

I like to use CO2 on planted tanks. Other like to keep it simple and use low light with low light plants. You are on the higher end of the spectum. I'd advise using CO2. I like to use pressurized, Ph controlled CO2 systems on large tanks. It just makes it more reliable and trouble free.


Any preference on the manufacturer of the CO2 system?

[Chad Hughes]

I'm in the process of changing my 140 gallon African Cichlid aquarium to a planted Discus tank.

http://www.tigervalley.com/aquarium/tankstand%20044.jpg

The tank is (60 x 18 x 31) with the following equipment.

Fluval FX5 filter
Rena XP4 filter
(2)250W Marineland Stealth Heaters
60" Power Compact Fluorescent Aquarium Light (2)65W and (2)96W

I'd like to set up the tank similar to this.

http://www.tigervalley.com/aquarium/500liter.jpg

I've purchased a couple pieces of driftwood to start. My questions to start are:

Is the tank pictured above something that I can achieve with my current lighting setup?

Is CO2 necessary? If so, what's the best system for this planted tank?

Recommendations for substrate?

Since the tank and filters are already cycled, what would my setup procedure be with regards to a time line for adding plants/fish?

Thanks in advance for the advice.


Any preference on the manufacturer of the CO2 system?

I use Ebay a lot for aquarium supplies. I've purchased two of these (see link) and have had great results. Milwaukee has great customer service and stands behind their products.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SMS122-PH-CONTROLLER-Milwaukee-CO2-REGULATOR-MA957_W0QQitemZ380124537333QQihZ025QQcategoryZ3212 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

As for the CO2 tank itself, I use a local beverage supply company. Here's another link.

http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/tanks/co2/C10.shtml

I pick up locally, so I don't deal with shipping, but you should have something local to you. I get my CO2 gas from these guys as well.

Hope this helps! Best wishes.

[zn394]

From reading Chad's post in the contest section, I won't argue with anything he says. I do have an alternative for you.

I tried the high-tech approach and either don't have the patience or the aptitude for it, so I decided to go the other way. I have 768 watts of power compact lighting available for my 150gl show tank, I've got the CO2 system, had the fert's, etc. The tank measures 72x18x30, so it is very tall for plants. After trying for months to get the balance right between ferts, lighting, and CO2, as well as fighting every algae possible (it seems), I went with the K.I.S.S. approach. I quit the CO2 and the ferts and dropped the lighting to 192w of 6700K only for 11 hours/day. It has been like this for 2 months now, with no more algae, and is doing fine. I also went with lower maintenance plants that can do well with lower lighting.

I really like the result even though it is going to have to grow in to be where I want it. Here is a link to a couple of pics if you care to see it.

http://forum.simplydiscus.com/album.php?albumid=61

[gotfish?]

if you ask me i wouldnt even bother with CO2. from the goal picture you posted all the plants in there will pretty much thrive well with or with out co2...or even "good" lighting. planted (co2) tanks would be a challenge apart from the challenge of raising discus(as far as balancing ph, co2, etc goes). so if i were you dont go for co2;)

on the side note, if you ever decide to "go for it" i have this motto of "go big, or go home"..thats the pressurized co2 system. its basically a co2 tank(any working tank will do), co2 regulator(i like Sumo...well thats the only one ive tried lol) and as for tyhe rest like needle valves, diffusor(although i like rexrig's reactor), co2 line, bubble counter, etc any kind/brand will do ;) the co2 tank and co2 regulator are the two basic things you would have to worry about (budget wise...atleast for me lol) oh, and dont forget that if your going pressurized that "proper/good" lighting is essential, if there is an imbalance between the two alge would grow.

check this site out www.plantedtank.net it helped me alot when dabbing with planted tanks :D:D

[bradp]

oh, and dont forget that if your going pressurized that "proper/good" lighting is essential, if there is an imbalance between the two alge would grow.

check this site out www.plantedtank.net it helped me alot when dabbing with planted tanks :D:D

What is considered "good" lighting? I have seen several DIY hoods utilizing T5HO lamps with small reflector systems that don't seem to be as efficient as a production aquarium fixture. Are we talking about having more W/gallon?

[Gunz05gunz]

I would also recommend using CO2 with that lighting. The plants in the pic are lower light plants, and would be fine with just half that light. But if you are using all of it, go with CO2. I had a similar setup a while ago, a 55g with 2x65w pc lights. It had CO2 issues for a week, where the manifold broke, and I had an algae bloom.

So you can either follow the high light, CO2 approach in which you could grow a more diverse amount of plants, like Avionics said. (You will need ferts, dry is cheaper) Or go with the low light non CO2 approach. The plants in the pic you showed will do fine in that situation.

I would also recommend www.barrreport.com

Heres a high light 1600g discus tank. http://www.barrreport.com/co2-aquatic-plant-fertilization/3549-ei-dosing-discus-tanks.html

Theres some really good info there. I would just decide what type of plants you would like first.

[shoggoth43]

Seconded on www.barrreport.com

"Good" lighting is probably more a case of EVEN lighting. No hotspots. Try to make it so the lighting is even from front to back and side to side. This is usually a case of raising the lights higher and better reflectors. You don't need Metal Halides, PC, or T5 lighting for most plants. High light means everything runs full tilt and you're going to need the CO2 to help. Lower light, but EVEN, lets you get away with more neglect. Plants require a lot less light than people tend to think.

I'll also put in my vote for the SuMo regulators. You get what you pay for. The Milwaukee units are cheap, but they are fiddly and may be more prone to the dreaded "tank dump" issue. The SuMo is set it and forget it from tank swap to swap. No problems. Tanks are swapped out at a local welding shop for replacements.

-
S

[rbarn]

With the amount of light you have and the "look" you want you
need to go high tech.

I'm a big fan of Co2 controllers also.
I look at them as PH stabilizers more than Co2 injection controllers.

Get a drop checker, crank PH down till it turns green and then
set controller to hold that PH. No PH swings, no worries.


Also. HIGHLY recommend the Neptune Systems Aqua Jr. full controller.
For $280 you get, PH control, temp control, timers, power strip, all probes.

Control PH
Control lights
turn lights, fans or heaters on/off based on temp not just timers.
Alarms
X-10 compatible
Data logging

Love mine on my new 60 gal super high tech high light set-up

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/rbarn1234/60-20.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/rbarn1234/60-27.jpg