No more 100% water changes for me...

[DLock3d]

The first thing that I noticed was this morning when my tank temp was 72.6 degrees in my Juvie tank. I forgot to plug the heaters back in. The temp is now fixed but my fish were still acting a bit skittish. Tested the water and the FREAKING NITRITES are at .25 in my Juvie tank AND my regular tank. The only explanation I can think of is that since I did 100% instead of the normal 90 - 95% more bacteria got killed without having any water for the prime to disperse in. Never again... I've been losing some Corey's lately and I'm not sure if it's due to the nitrites or if the discus have just started snacking on them. I have two Corey's left out of six one is missing both eyes and has been put into a QT tank. The others started losing fins before they died but no other fish had signs of sickness. Anyway, I'm frustrated but I'm fairly certain I know how to fix the problem. Anyone else have this experience? :mad:

[Eddie]

The first thing that I noticed was this morning when my tank temp was 72.6 degrees in my Juvie tank. I forgot to plug the heaters back in. The temp is now fixed but my fish were still acting a bit skittish. Tested the water and the FREAKING NITRITES are at .25 in my Juvie tank AND my regular tank. The only explanation I can think of is that since I did 100% instead of the normal 90 - 95% more bacteria got killed without having any water for the prime to disperse in. Never again... I've been losing some Corey's lately and I'm not sure if it's due to the nitrites or if the discus have just started snacking on them. I have two Corey's left out of six one is missing both eyes and has been put into a QT tank. The others started losing fins before they died but no other fish had signs of sickness. Anyway, I'm frustrated but I'm fairly certain I know how to fix the problem. Anyone else have this experience? :mad:

100% water changes are not required at all. The main thing to consider is tank size, stocking level, feeding regiment and filtration. Nitrites at .25 can kill but I don't think that the extra 10-5 % of water changed caused this if this is your normal water change amount.

Eddie

[DLock3d]

It's not that, it's the fact that I can't mix the prime in the water before I put the tap water in. So when I dumped the prime in it was on glass not into water. So I'm thinking the chlorine killed more of the bacteria in the tank then it normally does before the prime could effect the water. Make sense?

[Eddie]

It's not that, it's the fact that I can't mix the prime in the water before I put the tap water in. So when I dumped the prime in it was on glass not into water. So I'm thinking the chlorine killed more of the bacteria in the tank then it normally does before the prime could effect the water. Make sense?

Sort of, I normally drain the tank, fish laying down, pour in a little more than a cap of Prime for my 55 gallon and fill the tank. :o No deaths or even near deaths.

Eddie

[DLock3d]

Then how the hell am I getting nitrites?

[Scribbles]

Then how the hell am I getting nitrites?

Have you recently medicated? That can kill off some of your nitrifying bacteria.

Chris

[Chad Hughes]

Dan,

What kind of filter do you use? I'd say if your filters were running and you passed cholinated water through them, you could have done some damage. Outside of that, I'd test again. Something doesn't seem right.

Best wishes!

[Eddie]

How long have you been running this tank?

Have you cleaned the filter out?

Are there any dead fish just lying around some where you can't see?

Eddie

[DLock3d]

No meds.

No filter cleaning, tanks have been up for long enough.

Bare bottom tank with all fish accounted for.

I added salt, I'll check again in the morning...

[Eddie]

No meds.

No filter cleaning, tanks have been up for long enough.

Bare bottom tank with all fish accounted for.

I added salt, I'll check again in the morning...


When was the last time you cleaned your filters?

Long enough??? How long is that?

Eddie

[Roxanne]

..Tested the water and the FREAKING NITRITES are at .25 in my Juvie tank AND my regular tank. ..I've been losing some Corey's lately and I'm not sure if it's due to the nitrites or if the discus have just started snacking on them. I have two Corey's left out of six one is missing both eyes and has been put into a QT tank. The others started losing fins before they died but no other fish had signs of sickness. ..:mad:

Do you fill all your tanks the same way? Conditioner then water? If chlorine hits the media before dechlor has deactivated it will kill off bacteria and cause spikes. If you haven't been testing the water all along, you wouldn't know it was happening except that your fish would be irritated.

The Coreys are being nibbled on and eaten by the discus. Nitrites don't account for missing fins or eyes....I've had discus tolerate neons for months and then take to eating them.

Roxanne

[Don Trinko]

Not sure why you got nitrites but .25 nitrites on a temporary bassis should not cause any serious problem for your discus. I think the reaction from the low temperature was the problem. All of this IMO; Don T.

[Don Trinko]

I re read your post ( it's early and I'm half awake). Frayed fins can be a sign of bacterial infection. Unless you have some enormous discus I dobt that they would bother the cory's. How do the discus look? Don T.

[poconogal]

How old is your test kit? Maybe you're getting a false reading?

[DLock3d]

All good advice, thanks guys.

Eddie: When I say long enough it's because it's been several months since I've cleaned the filters. I dealt with a nitrite spike back then and it was only on one of the tanks.

Don: I don't think it's bacteria because the coreys were the only one's showing any signs. I keep my water pretty clean. I think you're right about the Discus reacting to the temp as opposed to the nitrites because the discus in my other tank weren't reacting like my discus in the juvie tank. The Discus I have aren't enormous but they are adults (the coreys aren't in my juvie tank).

Roxy: That was kind of my thinking but I know several people here who do 100% WC's every day and don't have this issue.

Connie: Test kit isn't too old (less then a year)

Anyway you look at it, this is enough for me not to drain that last 2 inches that keep the heaters submersed.

[mikel]

You dont need to drain the last two inches, and still be doing a HUMONGOUS water change nonetheless. 100% is not necessary, unless of course you choose to do it. I do 50% everyday, and on weekends, maybe I get rid of about 90%. I wipe the tank down with a sponge (sides, bottom) each time before a water change, and make sure all debris are taken care of. Make sure your filter sponges are regularly cleaned using tank water, or conditioned water. mike

[DavidH]

May sound stupid but have you tested your tap water lately!

[Apistomaster]

I only change about 70% of the water 2 times a week on ANY of my Discus tanks, fry, juveniles or adults, they all get the same treatment. This has worked for me for many decades.

I refill with tap water direct from faucet to tanks with a RV potable water hose. I add Prime to the water in the tank before I turn on the water. No problems.

I believe 90 to 100% water changes are for the birds unless everything is automated and the change over is a continuous but gradual process.

[Jhhnn]

I really dunno what's up with the cories, but it's entirely reasonable to leave a little water in the tank so you don't have to fuss with the heaters. Water changes need to be effective, for sure, but I think they need to be easy and relatively foolproof, as well...

I'm also a strong believer in ageing, conditioning and heating water before it goes into the tank... That's pretty much faith based, as I've never done it any other way to obtain any data. I don't see how it can possibly hurt, however...

[Eddie]

For sure, just drain 50% everyday if that is sufficient. As stated, its all about the tank size, stocking levels and feedings (type and amount).

Take care,

Eddie

[Roxanne]

... . it's been several months since I've cleaned the filters. I dealt with a nitrite spike back then and it was only on one of the tanks.

...Anyway you look at it, this is enough for me not to drain that last 2 inches that keep the heaters submersed.

D I think your filters were a little clogged....this would account for the consistantly high nitrates...throw in some chlorine hitting the media would account for the die back and the nitrites showing...

when you clean your filters, how do you do it?? ...

I know alot of people add conditioner then water, call me a narcisist but I always seem to be waiting for what I call "the inevitable"....if you splashed the dechlor out of the tank with high pressure water, then the dose was at least lower than the recommended amount which would account for any readings out of the ordinary and the dieback..

Rox