Nitrite Spike?

[akumastew]

Hi All

I have had my 125 gallon cycling for ~5 weeks.

I have been doing 25% water changes each week along with full water analysis.

I decided on this water change schedule based on low fish stocking levels and plan on increasing it as I add more fish.

Stocking Level:

2 Rams
3 Apistos
15 cardinals
5 baby BNP.

For the last few weeks I have done my water analysis I have had the following:

pH 7.5
gH 4
kH 6.5
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite <0.3 ppm
Nitrate < 5 ppm

I checked my tank this morning and I got:

pH 7.5
gH 4
kH 6.5
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 3.3 ppm
Nitrate < 5 ppm

I have added no new fish, and the all the fish have been in the tank for the 3-4 weeks.

Naturally, I took a corrective action. 50% water change. And will do 50% tomorrow morning once my RO unit has produced enough water.

I tested my RO supply and found nothing unusual in it.

Now to my questions.

1. Has anyone seen a nitrite spike, without an Ammonia or Nitrate spike?

2. If I forgot to add a dechlorinator to the faucet water I used to reconstitute my RO, would this kill off the bacteria that turn Nitrite in to Nitrate? (I am pretty sure I did add it, but I am throwing out some ideas.)

3. Any other ideas?

4. My fish all look healthy, the Rams are continuing to spawn and all fish are eating happily. Wouldn't they be upset at these levels of Nitrite?

Thanks for your time.

Stew

[joanr]

Yes, Nitrite spikes when nitrosomis colonies are destroyed or at a low level for probably reason #2 that you stated, Chlorine, chloramines will kill off bacteria. The bacteria that takes out the nitrites is less productive than the nitrobacters that munch the ammo, and seem to be destroyed more easily. Also measure your nitrites straight out of the tap, if that level has increased without your awareness, it would account for you seeing an increase since your are mixing your RO with tap. Look at the age of your testing kit, they do have a shelf life period.
For now, do a w/c with declorinator, add some prime or amquel + to the mix ( helps reduce nitrites/nitrates ). Your nitrate levels are <5 ppm. That is typical of discus tanks since we do so many w/c's, but it also may mean that your nitrosomis may be at lower levels and not converting as much nitrite to nitrate. Then is always a bottle of Safe Start or Fritzyme Turbo 700 as a cycle aid. Seachem Stability is third choice, not as good as first two. The turbo700 has to be overnighted since it needs refrigeration but that means you could get it in quickly if necessary.

[akumastew]

Thanks Joan.

I must remember to save the beer for after the WC. :p

[ifixoldhouses]

Yes, Nitrite spikes when nitrosomis colonies are destroyed or at a low level for probably reason #2 that you stated, Chlorine, chloramines will kill off bacteria. The bacteria that takes out the nitrites is less productive than the nitrobacters that munch the ammo, and seem to be destroyed more easily. Also measure your nitrites straight out of the tap, if that level has increased without your awareness, it would account for you seeing an increase since your are mixing your RO with tap. Look at the age of your testing kit, they do have a shelf life period.
For now, do a w/c with declorinator, add some prime or amquel + to the mix ( helps reduce nitrites/nitrates ). Your nitrate levels are <5 ppm. That is typical of discus tanks since we do so many w/c's, but it also may mean that your nitrosomis may be at lower levels and not converting as much nitrite to nitrate. Then is always a bottle of Safe Start or Fritzyme Turbo 700 as a cycle aid. Seachem Stability is third choice, not as good as first two. The turbo700 has to be overnighted since it needs refrigeration but that means you could get it in quickly if necessary.



what's the shelf life of an api master kit? mines 2 years old, think its still good? if not where can you get a brand new one?

[Daniella]

If you have nitrites so high and there are fish in there or nitrite spikes, it would be safer for the fish to add some salt. This protect the fish from blood poisoning fron the nitrites. I cannot remember exact quantity so this would need to be verified but one of my book state 1 teaspoon for 10 gallons.


Thanks Joan.

I must remember to save the beer for after the WC. :p

[akumastew]

If you have nitrites so high and there are fish in there or nitrite spikes, it would be safer for the fish to add some salt. This protect the fish from blood poisoning fron the nitrites. I cannot remember exact quantity so this would need to be verified but one of my book state 1 teaspoon for 10 gallons.


Thanks Daniella.

[Ardan]

Use 2 Tablespoons salt per 10 gallons tank water.

Increase wc's to daily. Use prime (this will also give false positive readings for ammonia)

remember to add the salt to the replacement water when doing wc's


hth
Ardan

[akumastew]

Use 2 Tablespoons salt per 10 gallons tank water.

Increase wc's to daily. Use prime (this will also give false positive readings for ammonia)

remember to add the salt to the replacement water when doing wc's


hth
Ardan

Thanks Ardan.

Does Prime only give false readings if it is reacting with Chloramines? or does it do so regardless of what it is reacting with?

I have been adding salt etc to the replacement water.

[Jhhnn]

Thanks Ardan.

Does Prime only give false readings if it is reacting with Chloramines? or does it do so regardless of what it is reacting with?

I have been adding salt etc to the replacement water.

Most test kits turn the much less harmful ammonium ion into free ammonia, thus reading "total ammonia". Since prime converts ammonia into ammonium, most test kits will give apoplectic fits to Prime users.

The Seachem test kit works differently, measures both free ammonia and total ammonia separately. Good stuff, what I use...

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/MT_Ammonia.html

Their nitrite/nitrate test kit works well, too.

.3ppm isn't horrible, but it's not good longterm. It's not an emergency situation, yet definitely less than optimal.

Even though I age my water in barrels, I add prime first, then fill as part of my routine. people who fill from the tap would do well to do it the same way, I figure...

[akumastew]

.3ppm isn't horrible, but it's not good longterm. It's not an emergency situation, yet definitely less than optimal.


0.3ppm is the lowest value on my Tetra test kit. It could well be 0ppm but it doesn't give me a color for that.

I should have researched my test kit better before I bought the tetra test kit.

At the rate I am doing water tests, I will need a new test kit in a month. :p

and then I will buy the Seachem test kits.

Thanks again,

Stew

[Eddie]

Just to throw it out there, some tetras don't take salt too well.

Eddie