pp overload

[matthewh2]

Hi guys, i have a very interesting question for ya's or for the people you use pp as a treatment, i have used pp a few times and followed the directions on it's use,

Now i recently did a pp on a tank which i wiped the inside down top to bottom and also the bottom too syphoned out 90% water and replaced with new, cleaned the sponge etc, all i have in the tank is a sponge filter and a heater, it is a bb tank just to let you know, carried out a pp treatment which at this stage should been pink right for 4 hrs correct, so why did it go yellow after 5 min (answer obviously organic overload) now why would it read that after the preperation i took before treatment :confused:

I was thinking of taking out the sponge filter all together and add more air as this helps aid in o2 as pp depletes it, was thinking that the overload came from the sponge, am i correct in saying that it is, or is there another reason why it did this.

[Moon]

Most likely it came from the organic matter in the sponge.
A word of caution. PP does tend to kill the bacteria in the filter. I would remove the sponge filter during treatment.

[matthewh2]

yeah thats what i thought, will remove next time thought that it was what was causing it .
thanks

[acroken]

did you add any de chlorinator to you water when you changed it. it maybe that the yellow color is just not totally neutralized pp. I do a heavy w/c 90% before a pp treatment then wait one day before treating. i also use good pre filters for my tap to remove chloramine so when i do use pp i do not have to use much de chlorinator/prime. just a thought

Kenny

[Chad Hughes]

+1

Any water treatment in the tank wil cause PP to go brown. Either fill the tank with filtered water or wait 24 hours after that water change to perform the treatment. Prime or any other water conditioner will be consumed within 24 hours and should have no impact on your PP trweatment.

Best wishes!

[mmorris]

IMO it's important to weigh out the PP rather than just go by color. A therapeutic dose is 2ppm - below that and you are probably wasting your time, even though the water will be pink, and above that, you risk serious harm to your fish.

[Eddie]

did you add any de chlorinator to you water when you changed it. it maybe that the yellow color is just not totally neutralized pp. I do a heavy w/c 90% before a pp treatment then wait one day before treating. i also use good pre filters for my tap to remove chloramine so when i do use pp i do not have to use much de chlorinator/prime. just a thought

Kenny


+2

[matthewh2]

Hi Martha, yes i have a concentrate mixture made and only use 2ppm and use prime as a conditioner, maybe cos not waiting the 24 hrs to let conditioner decrease as i usually pp after wc straight away (guess that is whats going on aha) i clean out the juvie tank everyday will get another tank organised to do a dip transfer, instead of using the tank they are being reared in.

thanks heaps guys for your feedback, much appreciated

[LizStreithorst]

Glad you found the answer,Matt.

[Jhhnn]

I'm new to the use of PP, but it seems to me that I always need to add to maintain the proper concentration. It's *reactive*- that's why and how it works, so the need to add seems obvious.

This works for me-

I age my water using prime for at least 24hrs, preferably 36hrs. I dose prime at the rate required to neutralize the maximum chloramine concentration in my tapwater, which Denver water claims to be no more than 2ppm. I squeeze out the sponges and wipe down the tank 24hrs in advance, do a large water change at that time. I change water again and squeeze out the sponges again immediately prior to treatment. I add vigorous aeration.

I have a make-up solution prepared in advance, using this recipe-

http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showpost.php?p=609226&postcount=15

I weigh out the correct amount of PP to achieve 2ppm, add it to the tank. I stay home, check the tank every half hour or so, add some of the prepared solution as necessary to keep the water color where it was after the initial dosing. I use a pipette w/ squeeze bulb attachment for the purpose. I maintain treatment as long as I can, up to 8hrs.

If the water turns yellow or brown quickly, it means the organic content is high, (or that I used too much prime) and that I can't judge the color very well, so I quit after a couple of hours at most, wipe down the tank again, wait and try the whole procedure again the next day, which usually works.

I keep some hydrogen peroxide handy, just in case. Extremely small amounts of it will very rapidly neutralize the PP, so I take it easy, leave a little pink color in the water at treatment end so as not to overdose with that...

It's seemingly effective at providing relief wrt non-specific gill disorders, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's a cure. I have a group of wild crosses afflicted with something I can't seem to figure out, not flukes, because the usual fluke methods don't help, and they don't scratch at all. Usual anti- protozoan methods have no effect, either. PP helps, brings their respiration rate down afterwards, but whatever it is creeps back, even after repeated treatments at 4-5 day intervals... I haven't tried antibiotics, so I guess that's next...

[prometheusGR]

Potassium permanganate is sensitive to light, keep the lights off during treatment.