Filter Flow Rate

[mbiggs]

What flow / turnover rate is normally preferred?

I am setting up a 55 gal low-tech planted - actually only about 42 gals tops it off.
I have an AC 110 and an AC 70 to use.
What configuration should I use - both, 110 only, or 70 only?

I don't want high current, but I want as much bio-filtration as possible while keeping low current. So should I just use one and add a sponge filter?

-Matt

[mbiggs]

I decided on just using the AC 70 and they seem happy.

[Fish Finatics]

Read your post. It lacks major information. Much depends on your stocking level, lighting and water changes. Plants, like discus like very clean water. An Aqua-Clear 70 won't cut it in terms of bio-load for much of anything. I understand why you want to keep your currentl down, in the interest of CO2 production/loss. CO2 concentration but that depends entirely on your PH levels, also not given. You really didn't give anyone much if any info to go on if you want answers. I am not sure you really want answers as you seem to have your mind made up. You are talking "toy filters" (especially the Aqua-Clear 70) if that is ONLY what you choose to use on a 55 gal. planted. That can't possibly sustain life unless you are doing DAILY water changes.

You are putting fat too much emphasis on your plants and not near enough on your fish and they need to come first. THEY ARE LIVING BREATHING ANIMALS, especially if you want (or are currently keeping) to keep discus. They look to us as their care givers. No fish relates to their humans more than discus and that is based on about 40 years in the hobby.

[Fish Finatics]

I'm in a little better mood this AM. I really think you would do well to learn planted tanks before you try incorporating discus into the picture but here are a few pointers:

Discus hate liquid fertalizers.

Additionally:
Liquid fertalizers lead to algae blooms. Most plants feed through their roots anyway.

Discus do love highly oxygenated water so if your plants are not doing well your plants will not give off the oxygen they need to in order to supply the discus.

Dead and decaying leaves really negatively impact water quality. Purigen absorbant may help with that as it eats ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.

While CO2 is beneficial to all plants some plants can get by fairly well without it's use. If you have a regular T-5 duel strip light you are only running 2 watts per gallon so darker green leaved plants will do best. Fast growing plants need extra CO2 but that usually goes hand in hand with more intense lighting.

Learn well the impact pH has on CO2 concentrations. aquaticscapes.com (a member of this forum) has some very helpful articles printed online for referrance. Aquariumplants.com lists plants that are suitable for individual conditions.

If I had a choice between the Aqua-Clear 70 vs the 110 I'd go with the 110 because it has more biological capasity. The problem with the 110 is that once loaded with bio-media under that big sponge block, water circulation is poor to non-existant down the far and lower corner of the filter. Highly fatal, invisable "Hydrogen Sulfide" is likely to develop (due to lack of oxygen) if you do not stay on top of your media rinsing. Of course, always rinse your media in used aquarium water. I'd be inclined to advise the use of larger highly porous bio-media loaded into bio-bags for easy rinsing. Much easier than trying to scoup your media out for routine rinsing. :)

Do not sacrafice bio-performance in the interest of CO2. There are other ways to pick up CO2, although not as ideal as injection they do saffice provided you watch to be sure you are not buying plants that must have CO2.

[Eddie]

What flow / turnover rate is normally preferred?
Really depends on your set-up, anywhere from 3 to 10 times the volume per hour.

What configuration should I use - both, 110 only, or 70 only?
For the aesthetics of the tank, I'd stick with the 110 and/or 70.

So should I just use one and add a sponge filter?
No need to if you want it to look clean.

[fishorama]

I like 2 filters on tanks over 20g. I can clean them alternately & not worry about losing much in the way of nitrifying bacteria. I use prefilters to keep out the big bits. I use an extra sponge in ACs with the biomax & sometimes a thin layer of floss between for fine stuff.

With low tech (no CO2) planted you don't need to worry about CO2 since it will only be from the surface gas exchange & water changes. As long as your fish are ok the current won't matter to most plants.

What plants are you trying to grow? I use root tabs for swords & crypts.

[Fish Finatics]

Hi Matt:

Just expanding on fishorama's comment. That huge block sponge on the 110is a great biological filter in itself so "you DO NOT want to rinse that in tap water" either to keep the biological bacteria alive. I personally do not like competing bio-filters but that is just me. I had a 110 running a 38 gal. tank some time back and would either rinse the sponge or the media (rotating between the two) but never the two at the same time.

Fishorama also had another great point, swords and crypts like micro and macro trace mineral supplimentation via their root systems. I use aquariumplants.com's complete substrate fertalizer package myself. The point being you must suppliment the root systems of many plants. With crypts I have found that even with substrate fertilization they do seem to prefer established (muck and yuck) substrate. Also know that crypts are prone to something called "crypt melt" where they just kind of deteriorate when moved.

That is not why I am posting to you again however. I wanted to suggest a small pocket quick referrance book to bring to where ever you buy your plants called 101 Best Aquarium Plants by Mary Sweeney, editor of TFH. I use it even when buying plants online. It tells you light, fertilization and CO2 requirements of most commonly found plants.

Have fun ;)

[Eddie]

Hi Matt:

Just expanding on fishorama's comment. That huge block sponge on the 110is a great biological filter in itself so "you DO NOT want to rinse that in tap water" either to keep the biological bacteria alive. I personally do not like competing bio-filters but that is just me. I had a 110 running a 38 gal. tank some time back and would either rinse the sponge or the media (rotating between the two) but never the two at the same time.

Fishorama also had another great point, swords and crypts like micro and macro trace mineral supplimentation via their root systems. I use aquariumplants.com's complete substrate fertalizer package myself. The point being you must suppliment the root systems of many plants. With crypts I have found that even with substrate fertilization they do seem to prefer established (muck and yuck) substrate. Also know that crypts are prone to something called "crypt melt" where they just kind of deteriorate when moved.

That is not why I am posting to you again however. I wanted to suggest a small pocket quick referrance book to bring to where ever you buy your plants called 101 Best Aquarium Plants by Mary Sweeney, editor of TFH. I use it even when buying plants online. It tells you light, fertilization and CO2 requirements of most commonly found plants.

Have fun ;)


Mary is a member on here, great Author.